THIAN HOCK KENG TEMPLE

The site where the temple now stands was originally by the sea. It was here that Hokkien coolies (migrant laborers from China's Fujian province, employed in back-breaking jobs) arrived from Amoy by junk. In 1821, all that stood there was an altar and a small Joss House, which served as a night shelter for coolies waiting for work. A few of them quickly made their fortune and decided to erect a real temple, even bringing in the materials from China. They thanked the gods without greed and built Singapore's oldest temple, the "Temple of Heavenly Happiness". It was renovated between 1976 and 1989. Nowadays, it is seldom visited, serving instead as a place of rest and recollection for the old Chinese, who remember the old days. Nevertheless, it remains one of the most grandiose and a fine example of what is known as Chinese rococo architecture. The temple is dedicated to Ma Chu Po, Mother of the Heavenly Sages or Queen of the Heavens, who is also Mistress of the Seas, calming storms, domesticating sea monsters and rescuing the drowned. It was to thank her for enabling them to arrive safely in Singapore that the Hokkiens dedicated this sacred site to her. The building is richly decorated with multicolored tiles, dragons and granite pillars from China. The blue porcelain tiles come from Holland. At the entrance are two lions. The animal holding a cup symbolizing fertility is a lioness, while the one with the ball symbolizing wealth is the male. As you enter, watch out for the bar on the floor (and sometimes also for a seated old Chinese man, dreaming while he naps). This bar forces you to look down and bow your head to the gods. It also serves to keep out evil spirits. Inside, the statue of Ma Chu Po, brought from China in 1840, is surrounded by incense sticks. On the left is the Goddess of Health, on the right the Goddess of Wealth. The former can hear 15,000 km away, while the latter can see the same distance. They are two sentinels who complement each other. The brown substance on their lips and chins is ancient opium, supposed to sharpen their senses. This is the Taoist part. The temple at the back is Buddhist and dedicated to Guan Yin, goddess of mercy. Her many arms, symbols of her love for all who suffer, enable her to embrace and console.