CARNAVAL

It's the most eagerly awaited event in Panama! Four days before Ash Wednesday, Carnival sets the whole country ablaze, and has done so since colonial times. In the past, Panamanians dressed up as Spanish kings and queens, and re-enacted battles against indigenous peoples and black slaves. In the early ^20th century, a more festive touch was added with colorful parades, thundering brass bands and fireworks.

Today, the most spectacular carnival isheld in Las Tablas, a small town in the heart of the Azuero peninsula. Two streets, Calle arriba and Calle abajo, compete to elect the most beautiful queen. For four days and nights, one parade follows another. The party's in full swing, the alcohol's flowing... Carnival starts on Friday evening. Saturday is traditionally known as "international" day, with parades in traditional costumes, to the rhythm of salsa and típico. Women wear their most beautiful pollera, the delicate dress that takes pride of place on Sunday. Monday is "costume day". Mardi Gras crowns the queen, before the Wednesday burial of the sardine closes the festivities and heralds Lent.

Throughout Carnival, expect to get drenched: the public is copiously drenched by jets of water spouting from water tankers. This"mojadera" is far from unpleasant in the February heat! Another highlight is the devil dances, with the famous diablicos sucios. In the province of Herrera, craftsmen still make their impressive papier-mâché masks. Inherited from the days of evangelization, these figures depict the symbolic battle between Good and Evil, much to the delight of spectators.

Note that, although Carnival is not a public holiday in Panama, most businesses draw their curtains and the country slows down. Remember to book your accommodation well in advance, as prices soar at this time of year. Public transport is also busy. It's best to arrive early in the afternoon to admire the first day's parades.

Apart from Las Tablas, Panamanian Carnival has its own local flavour. In Panamá Ciudad, there's jubilation on the wide avenues made pedestrian for the occasion, with two queens elected, one in the north, the other in the south of the city. In Penonomé, the mojadera takes on a unique dimension, with a veritable aquatic carnival where floats are paraded in the river and everyone ends up swimming in an atmosphere of total celebration.

In Portobelo, the carnival is an opportunity to discover the Congos traditions and their theatrical dances inherited from the black slaves to mock the Spanish colonists. Festivities are also renowned in Bocas, Pedasí and Aguadulce. In the village of La Pintada, Carnival is even celebrated a week later! Finally, returning to the Azuero peninsula, the carnivals of La Villa de los Santos, Chitré and Guararé also offer colorful, well-attended celebrations, but the Las Tablas carnival is undoubtedly the craziest!