ABASTOS CENTRAL

La Central de Abastos is Mexico City's fridge, considered the country's stomach: it's where all the goods needed by Mexico City's 25 million inhabitants arrive before being distributed among the city's small traders. At trading time, between 9 and 11 a.m., more than 500,000 people invade this giant 327-hectare market; the area dedicated to fruit and vegetables comprises no fewer than 8 sections, 1,934 warehouses and 1,222 distribution premises; the scents are intoxicating beyond description. Here, no fewer than 10,000 informal workers unload trucks every day. The movement of money is impressive: it's supposed to be more voluminous than at any bank in Latin America. In just a few hours, traders can earn up to US$50,000. Fish and seafood are distributed in a special section of the market, the Nueva Viga, described as the largest port in Mexico!

Central de Muros is an art project designed to cover this huge market with its grayish walls in frescoes. Since it began in 2017, several dozen 20x6 m frescoes have sprung up in the four corners of the market. Supported by the UN, they address themes such as the daily work of diableros (who transport goods between stalls on their devils), gender issues and water. When you arrive, diableros will be on hand to help you discover these issues.