ZÓCALO

The fall of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlán in 1521 marked the beginning of the great symbolic and architectural manoeuvres that were to leave a lasting mark on Mexican urbanism: the temples and palaces of the pre-Hispanic civilizations were methodically dismantled and their stones were recycled to build churches and public buildings on their former site. In Mexico City, what was the heart of the Aztec capital was to become the centre of the new capital of the Spanish colony. The Palacio del Virrey was built on the ruins of the Palacio de Moctezuma Xocoyotzin on the eastern side of the square: it is the ancestor of the present Palacio Nacional. The northern part of the present square was to house the cathedral, on part of the site of the Templo Mayor, the ruins of which can still be seen beside it.

From the very end of the 18th century onwards, the square underwent numerous improvements: levelling, paving and the installation of fountains. The famous Piedra del Sol was unearthed, and it remained on display in the square for a long time before becoming the icon of the Museo de Antropologia. It was at this time that it acquired its official name of Plaza de la Constitución, in homage to the Constitution of Cadiz promulgated in Spain in 1812. A statue of King Charles IV, which was removed after the War of Independence (1810-1821), was also installed here and is now located opposite the Museo Nacional de Arte. The name zócalo originates from the monument project commissioned in 1843 by General Santa Anna to commemorate the Independence. A word of Greek and later Latin origin associated with the shoes worn by theatre actors at the time, its meaning was attached to the architectural register to designate the base on which the buildings rest. And since the monument to General Santa Anna never saw the light of day and only its circular base was visible for a long time in the middle of the square, it became customary to refer to it as the Zócalo. The word became synonymous throughout the country with the central square. It was not until 1878 that the base was covered with a wrought iron kiosk similar to the one in the Bois de Boulogne in Paris. In 1914, the ash trees, then a hundred years old, were uprooted and the whole was redesigned as a garden with palm trees at the ends. In 1956, the square acquired its present austere appearance: for the first time in 400 years, it became an immense empty space, with only the metal pole bearing the monumental national flag.

Today, the Zócalo is still a square in constant motion. Traditionally, every year, the president plays the famous Independence Grito (cry) in front of a large crowd (usually requisitioned for the occasion): "¡ Viva Mexico, Viva Mexico, Viva Mexico!" If the square is the symbol of the national and municipal executive power, it is also largely invested by the demonstrations and the numerous protests inherent to the political management of the country. The marchas come here and the bravest people settle in makeshift camps that can last for days and weeks. Large cultural events are also held here, as well as massive concerts. The more traditional concheros dance all year round, re-enacting a circular syncretic ritual to the sound of drums and bells worn on the dancers' ankles. Street vendors are omnipresent.