Restaurant with a definitely French cuisine, creative and without fuss.
While Hélène Darroze treats the little lucarn these days with his participation as jury on Top Chef on M 6, it's Shinsuke Nakatani, his second for more than nine years in Paris, who has made our delight since the opening of his restaurant in September 2014. His kitchen? Definitively French, creative but without chicks: light, with little or no sauce, and vegetables (Joël Thiébault) honored. This kitchen is inventive and audacious, like this horse net (a specialty of the chef), Brussels cabbage, cabbage kale, dice green greens and esophageal sauce. What about training? Contemporary, graphic, vivos and colorful. Beautiful ideas, we think of these salsious salsifis that accompany a chocolate with a marred chocolate of red lemon and rice grains blown and beaten, and give this composition a surprising underwood air. At the command of the decoration, a duo we know well, Eiji Kikkawa and Shinku Noda (Atelier Es). They have signed - among other things - the restaurants of Jin restaurants, Pages, Pass 53, Es, Aida, Gyoza Bar and most recently Summer Snow in Paris. White beams, monochrome walls very clear: Here again, the style of the two architects is Zen, contemporary and minimalist.
It’s a great privilege to eat at such a highly rated establishment, and I fully appreciate the work that goes into a chefs preparation - however I do not think that he tasted the food he was serving. My husband described many of the courses as bland mush, and I can’t come up with a better description.
The amuse bouche was best described as boring, and it was frankly the best service of the meal… including the Wagyu steak supplement we had. The desert was inedible and we had already sent so much back uneaten, I was embarrassed. The insult to injury was the price which, when converted, came to nearly $1000 Aussie, including one of the least expensive wines on the list. I was very glad I didn’t order the bottle we had originally planned.
The restaurant was empty, and it was a Friday night in Paris… for a Michelin restaurant, that says a lot. Nakatani sadly won’t be keeping their star with that menu.