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Practical information : Eating out Southwest China
Timetable
Restaurants are generally open 7 days a week, and it's rare to need to make a reservation, except for some of Hong Kong's most famous addresses. The Chinese have a real passion for food, and meals are important social occasions. Mealtimes differ slightly from those in the West: breakfast is taken early, between 6 and 8 a.m., often in the form of dim sum or congee, a hearty rice porridge. Lunch is between 11.30am and 1pm, and dinner between 5.30pm and 7pm. Restaurants close early, around 9pm. In many night markets, especially in Guangzhou and Guilin, you'll find street-food stalls that stay open much later. Hotels and guesthouses with their own restaurants also close around 9pm.
Budget & Tips
In Southern China, payments are mainly made via mobile applications such as WeChat or Alipay, but cash is still accepted in local markets or small shops. Credit cards are mainly used in high-end restaurants and hotels. Local cuisine is generally very affordable, wherever you are. If you want to eat at a lower price, choose street food stalls, small family-run establishments or night markets. Restaurants serving Western cuisine are rare and generally more expensive. They are mainly found in high-end hotels in major cities. To ask for the bill, say 买单, mǎi dān.
Some benchmarks: a noodle soup between 15 and 40 RMB, a street-food meal around 15 to 30 RMB, dinner in a local restaurant from 30 to 150 RMB, and in a refined establishment, it can go from 200 to 600 RMB or more.
Tip. If you don't speak Chinese, translation apps like DeepL or Google Translate have a "camera" option: you can take a photo of the menu and translate it directly!
What costs extra
Extra charge. In China, it's very rare for a carafe of water to be offered in restaurants, except in certain high-end establishments. However, cups and hot tea are often placed on the table, a custom rooted in local tradition, and are usually charged at 2-3 RMB. Some restaurants also charge extra for rice and napkins.
Service charge. Service charges, usually around 10%, are not always included in menu prices and may be added to the bill, especially in more formal restaurants.
Tipping. Tipping is not common practice in China. However, in major cities and tourist areas, tipping is increasingly accepted, especially if the service is exceptional. You can round up the amount or leave small change, but this is entirely optional. Some restaurants and cafés also have a tip box, discreetly placed near the counter.
The local way
In Southern China, gastronomy is a true cultural adventure, rich in unique flavors and traditions. Markets abound with mouth-watering (or surprising) specialties: grilled skewers of meat or insects, fermented tofu and freshly caught seafood.
In restaurants, certain local habits surprise visitors. For example, paper napkins are not systematically provided, and locals often bring their own linen or handkerchiefs. As for ordering, this is increasingly done via a QR code placed on the table, a quick and practical system for consulting the menu and placing orders directly from one's phone.
Cleaning dishes. In restaurants, crockery is often individually wrapped in plastic containing a bowl, cup and spoon. It's also common to be given a large bowl of hot water (or tea) and tongs: it's customary to rinse utensils by dipping them in, before eating.
Chopsticks are ubiquitous. Once you've eaten, don't hesitate to make a noise by sucking up your noodles, as this is a way of expressing your satisfaction and complimenting the chef.
Meat. For those who don't eat meat, it's useful to know how to say, "I don't eat meat" in Mandarin, which is 我不吃肉(wǒ bù chī ròu). This phrase will be particularly valuable in a region where meat is omnipresent at every meal.
Traditional restaurants with live animal tanks at the entrance are also typical in southern China. In these establishments, you can choose your meal directly from live fish, poultry, frogs or shellfish. Once you've made your selection, the animal is prepared and cooked on the spot. This practice may come as a shock to some travelers, but it also invites us to reflect on our own relationship to animal consumption: how is choosing live fish directly from a fish tank so different from buying a piece of chicken packaged in a supermarket?
Spicy dishes. Finally, there are many spicy dishes, and European palates are often not used to this level of spiciness. For these dishes, adapt them to your tolerance by asking for "no spice"(bù là, 不辣) or "slightly spicy"(wēi là, 微辣).
To be avoided
Hygiene. Hygienic conditions may not always be respected (especially for street food), and it's sometimes surprising to see fresh meat or fish sitting on tables in the hot sun. Avoid this if you have a weak stomach.
Water. Even in the big cities, water in China is not drinkable at all. Restaurants and hotels, among others, have water fountains or filtering systems. As a reminder, water is a traveller's main enemy. Statistically, 1 out of every 2 travellers is affected by turista within the first 48 hours, and 80% of travel-related illnesses are directly attributable to contaminated water.
Allergies. If you have food allergies, be on the lookout, as some dishes may contain common allergens such as peanuts, soy or glutamate, which is commonly used in Chinese cuisine.
Customs. Certain practices should be avoided, such as sticking your chopsticks into your rice bowl, as this is a sign of bad luck (reminiscent of the incense planted during funeral rites); when sharing a meal, you don't use your chopsticks to help yourself to communal dishes, but rather a specific pair of chopsticks; and you serve tea to others before serving yourself.
Smokers
Smoking is officially prohibited in restaurants and enclosed spaces. In reality, however, many Chinese are big fans of tobacco and smoke all the time and everywhere, even in places where it is theoretically forbidden. In more modest or traditional establishments, this rule is frequently ignored, especially in rural areas. On the terrace, tolerance varies, and the presence of an ashtray is often a good indicator. However, this should not exempt you from complying with the rules in force, especially in larger towns where smoking bans are more strictly enforced.
Tourist traps
Nothing to report. Restaurants generally display the price of food and drink on the menu. In big cities like Guangzhou or Shenzhen, scams are rare, and it's uncommon for restaurateurs to inflate their prices because you're a tourist. However, in very touristy areas or night markets, some vendors may try to discreetly inflate the bill, especially if no price is displayed. To avoid this, ask for the price in advance.