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Fresques peintes par Giambattista Tiepolo sur la voûte de la chapelle des Saint-Sacrements dans la cathédrale d'Oudine © LorenzoPeg - Shutterstock.com.jpg

Mixed origins

For a long time a land of invasions and battles, Friuli preserves the traces of the many peoples who have occupied it, including the Celts and the Romans. In Aquileia, founded in 181BC by the Romans, you can now walk among the Roman remains inherited from the Empire. The city became a prosperous commercial, cultural and military crossroads. The site is home to the Basilica di Aquileia, a Christian monument famous for its fourth-century mosaic floor. Spread over more than 1,300 square meters, these mosaics are among the best preserved of the great achievements of the Christian world. Symbol of wealth and power, in the basilicas, the mosaics transmit the religious teachings.

The paleochristian basilica of Trieste, also houses remarkable mosaics. They constitute a real gallery of portraits of a great expressiveness. Overall, its mosaics reflect the wealth of the city and the church. Built between the fourth andfifth centuries, the building was discovered under the current Cattedrale di San Giusto. In an apse, the famous mosaic depicting Mary and San Giusto, the patron saint of the city, is dated to the thirteenth century

Lombard art

The Lombard people settled in Friuli from 568. Coming from Scandinavia, this people brought their own artistic traditions. One can detect a strong Germanic imprint, mixed with Byzantine influences. This is reflected in particular by a taste for ornamental elements

Following the conversion of the Lombards to Catholicism, the region became the cradle of many artists and writers as evidenced by the Small Lombard Temple, Tempietto Longobardo in Cividale del Friuli. The decorations in relief, including splendid saints in stucco, combine classical models and Byzantine ornament. In Cividale, a stopover at the baptistery of Calixtus, in the Museo Cristiano of the cathedral, is a must. The section dedicated to Lombard heritage houses the sculpted altar of the Duke of Ratchis (737-744). The Christ on the throne surrounded by angels playing the mandolin is of superb workmanship. The Lombards were outstanding sculptors, but also excellent goldsmiths. Their stylized crosses are decorated with decorative and animal motifs, or set with precious stones. Lombard culture flourished until 774, when Charlemagne arrived in Italy

Giovanni da Udine

Painter and architect born in Udine in 1487, Giovanni Nanni was a pupil and then collaborator of the great maestro of the High Renaissance, Raphael. As such, he executed most of the decorative elements of the master's main projects in Rome. Considered the specialist in stucco decorations, Giovanni da Udine signed the realizations of the Vatican Lodges, and those of the Villa Farnesina. He drew his inspiration from the grotesques discovered in the Esquiline caves, as well as from his love for nature, which he drew from observation. Animals, flowers, fruits and vegetables, sea monsters populate his creations of an inexhaustible inventiveness

Back in Friuli, he was appointed chief architect of the city. In Civile, he helped build Santa Maria dei Battuti, and the Fountain in Piazza Nuova. He died in 1555 in Rome

From the 15th century onwards, the region was divided into Venetian Friuli, whose capital was Udine, and Austrian Friuli, whose first city was Trieste. The Venetian and Austrian cultures mixed more than ever in the territory.

Udine and Tiepolo

The career of the painter and engraver Giambattista Tiepolo, who was born in Venice in 1696 and died in Madrid in 1770, is characteristic of the Europe of the Enlightenment. The son of a merchant ship captain, Tiepolo trained in the workshops of the Venetian artists Lazzarini and Piazzetta. He then worked in several major European courts, enriching his Baroque style through his travels. He also distinguished himself in the art of fresco

In Udine, his palette became clearer when he was called upon to paint the frescoes of the chapel and the Patriarchal Palace, which he completed in 1730. The Fall of the Rebellious Angels (1726), tells the story of the revolt of the angels who were expelled from paradise. In the Palazzo Patriarchale, now the Museo diocesano - Galleria del Tiepolo, one can also admire the fresco Rachel hiding the idols, the Appearance of the angel to Sarah.

It was in Udine that he freed himself from his academic training and let his colors and emotions explode. Following this commission, he was recognized as a master of fresco by his contemporaries. He was in great demand, especially in Bergamo, Venice and Milan. The Musei di Storia ed Arte di Trieste holds the largest collection of Tiepolo's drawings in the world. Housed in an 18th century villa, the Civico Museo Sartorio holds several of his drawings, but also the Triptych of Santa Chiara, painted by Paolo and Marco Veneziano in 1328

The rise of the 19th century

In the 19th century, Trieste became the main port of a powerful monarchy. Thanks to its free port, the city experienced an unparalleled development. The population was enriched with inhabitants who came from all over Europe and built churches. All the arts were encouraged. The Civico Museo d'Antichita Winckelmann was founded in 1843 as a stone garden, with the cenotaph of Johann Joachim Winckelmann at its heart

Born in 1870 in Nimis, in the province of Udine, Tita or Giambattista Gori received a classical and religious education. This multilingual man of letters left to study in Venice, at the Accademia di belle Arti. Back in Nimis, he pursued a double career: painter and innkeeper. His clients frequently serve him as models. Tita Gori acquired a certain popularity in the eastern part of Friuli where he practiced his art. From 1884, he painted the frescoes of the church of Monteprato. This commission was followed by the monumental Sacra Familia, which he painted in the church of the Madonna delle Pianelle in Nimis (1889). It was from 1897 that he worked on his most significant achievement, in the Lombardy church of Saints Gervais and Portais in Nimis. The restoration and frescoing of this building occupied him until 1912. Its style, with a strong spiritual charge, is characterized by its poetry and symbolism. In the region, his frescoes can still be admired in the church of Savorgnano and in the chapel of the psychiatric hospital of Udine. Some of his paintings are kept in the parish church of Cergneu and in the Civica Galleria d'Arte Moderna in Udine.

The Museum of Art and History shares the space of the castle of Udine - Castello - Musei Civici - with other museums, dedicated to ancient art, archaeology, drawings and prints and photography. The Museum of Photography houses an exceptional archive, including the works of the most important photographers who worked in Udine in the 19th century such as Pignat, Bujatti and Brisighelli

Afro and abstraction

Under Austrian protection since the end of the 14th century, Friuli Venezia Giulia became Italian in 1918. Before being annexed by Germany in 1943

Between these two dates, Afro Basaldella, born in Udine, contributed greatly to the development of abstraction throughout the boot. Afro was introduced to art by his father, a painter and decorator. He continued his studies at the Beaux-Arts of Florence and Venice, then moved to Milan. In Arturo Martini's studio, he made friends with the art scene of the time. His first exhibition took place in 1934 and he subsequently exhibited at the Quadriennale in Rome and at the Venice Biennale

It was not until after the Second World War that Basaldella turned to neocubism. He then moved to New York where his art quickly evolved towards abstract art. Recognized in 1956 as the best Italian artist at the Venice Biennale, he joined the Gruppo degli Otto, an association of Italian non-figurative painters. In 1958, he was entrusted, along with Mirò, the realization of the mural of the headquarters of UNESCO in Paris. His career continued until 1976, when he died in Switzerland

The works of the one nicknamed Afro in Italy are exhibited in the most important institutions in the world. In Trieste, Basaldella's abstract art can be admired at the Civico Museo Revoltella

Contemporary scene

Trieste lives with the times. The creation of the Alinari Image Museum (AIM), in 2016, located in the Castello di San Giusto, honors multimedia art. Through digital technology, it is a whole visual journey that leads through the history of photography. An exceptional access to the oldest photographic archives in the world.

Among the art galleries in the capital, the gallery Mlz Art Dep (Via Roma, 15), opened in 2014 by Marco Lorenzetti, is resolutely focused on contemporary art: video, painting sculpture, photography and installation, all mediums are represented to promote young creation in its most innovative

On the street side, Trieste is slowly but surely moving towards urban art. In the last ten years, murals have begun to emerge in the suburbs, outside the tourist circuits

The Chromopolis project launched in 2016 invites the population to reclaim public space. Overseen by Councilman De Santis, the initiative supports the rehabilitation of neighborhoods. La Lanterna, Grezar Stadium, Nereo Rocco Stadium, Altura Skate Park have benefited from this artistic project based on sharing and innovation. To this end, young artists and citizens unite their talents with the only directive to reinvent the places. Freedom of expression is the order of the day. Much more than punctual interventions, the objective is to integrate urban art in everyday life. With this aim, the birth of the Street Art Festival of Trieste, postponed because of the pandemic, will soon see the light. Its main objective? To highlight the local artists. Beautiful discoveries in perspective!