Things to see and do Northern China

Longmen is one of three sets of Buddhist caves in China with Yungang (Datong) and Dunhuang. These caves are the city's main attraction today. They are - not surprisingly - classified as UNESCO World Heritage. Take the time to visit them during your stay, both the site is exceptional.

History

Their construction is in fact the result of a major historical change during the period of the North and South Kingdoms. The Emperor Xiaowen of the North Wei (386-534) extended his power on the central plains and decided to transfer the capital of Datong to Luoyang. He veiled that this unique Buddhist art, developed in Datong in the Yungang caves, is perpetuated, decreing Buddhism of state religion, following the custom of the Han. These large sets of imperial caves take place on the cliff over one kilometer on both sides of the Yi River. Formerly named Yi Que (the two guard towers of the Yi River), caves were renamed Longmen (door of the Dragon) under the Sui, then southern gate of the capital, and Seat of the Dragon's Court (symbol of the Imperial Court).

The cave of Guyang was the first to be excavated in 488, opening an era of large-scale construction extending to the end of the Tang. The result is impressive: over 2,100 caves and niches, some 100,000 images and statues of Buddha, 400 performances of pagodas and 3,600 stalls and inscriptions. All survived the weather and other ravages of history, and only the obscene vandalism of some warned collectors took away fragments of the wonders of rock art during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Irony of history (and that is so much better): Caves remained virtually intact during the Cultural Revolution.

The layout of the cellars shall adopt a more or less identical pattern: an effigy of Buddha in the center surrounded by two disciples and bodhisattva. Tang's glaring and physical opulence contrasts with the starchy and statism of the North Wei figures: Longmen is a true panorama of the history of Buddhist art, of its arrival in China at the end of the Tang until the beginning of persecution against foreign religions, Buddhism in mind.

Visit

The caves are located on the west bank of the Yi River, north of the western hills along which the main structures take place. Then cross the river Yi to continue the visit of caves and the temple of the scented Hill. Here is the tour (which can only be done in this order…)

Just after the entrance, the Qianxi Temple (underground source temple) erected at the beginning of the Tang, which contains a Buddha of 7.40 m high, surrounded by two disciples, two bodhisattgo and two generals.

Binyang Caves (¶ ╩): they are in fact three caves (south, central and north), the most important of which is the center. Built under Emperor Xuanwu (500-516), in honor of his father (Emperor Xiaowen) and his mother (the Empress Wenzhao), they were conceived on the model of Lingyan Temple in Yungang (Datong).

The ensemble asked for more than 24 years of work carried out by more than 800,000 workers. At the entrance to the center cave, two Buddhism guards protect the three Buddhas: that of the Past (Mahakasyapa), Present (Sakyamuni, center) and Future (Maitreya). In the middle of the ceiling, one can see a lotus flower around which 10 apsaras fly (celestial dancers assimilated to daughters of joy).

The walls of the cave also contain four low-profile banners, which are now widely deteriorated. The third, representing two scenes from Emperor Xiaowen and Empress Wenzhao performing Buddhist rituals, is currently located at the Metropolitan Museum in New York and Kansas Nelson Art Gallery. Still visible, the first blindfold describes scenes of Buddha's life, the second of the representations of Buddhist philosophy and the fourth 10 carved Buddhist deities and flanked by two disciples and bodhisattvas. Between the central cave of Binyang and that of the south, the Yique tree with a height of 1.90 m high commemorates the construction of the Binyang caves.

Grotto to the ten thousand Buddha (Slovenia): This cubic structure of 5.90 m wide, 6.50 m deep and 5.80 m high, built in the life century, has over 15,000 Buddhist statues. In the center, the main statue is an Amitabha of 4 meters high on a pedestal shaped pedestal in eight petals (Sumeru), behind which is a bas-relief representing 54 bodhisattvas sitting on lotus leaves. On either side of Buddha there are four imposing warriors. The walls are covered with miniature representations of the main Buddha. The ceiling is decorated with a lotus flower around which an inscription indicates that the cave was completed in 680. The cave at Ten Thousand Buddhas is the only structure of Longmen with the date of construction, the destination, the names of the benefactors and the masterpieces. The cave was once flanked by two «guardian» lions who were stolen.

Grotto of the lotus flower (♀ ╩): It's one of the last caves excavated under the North Wei in 527. The high relief of the lotus flower flourishing at the center of the ceiling finally gave its name to the cave. Its provision is similar to the other Longmen structures: Buddha at the center flanked by two disciples and bodhisattgo. Its particularity lies in the treatment of the disciples who are this time bas-reliefs and not high reliefs. The walls of the cave are covered with performances of Buddha, the smallest of Longmen (2 cm at most).

Temple of the Ancestors' Cult (¶ ╩): built on a mid-height platform of the hill, it is the largest structure of Longmen, it represents Buddhist art at its peak. Wooden structures, including the roof, no longer exist today, exposing statues to the wind and rain, even if the authorities put forward front roofs on the edge of the cliff. Built in 672, the temple would have been commissioned by Empress Wu Zetian to increase his aura. It would have invested the budget for a year of beauty products to build this place. The Losana Buddha, in the center, with its 17.14 m height, is the largest statue of Longmen: Its head is 4 m long and its ears 1.90 m. Despite its gigantic proportions, inner sweetness and beauty emanate from it, producing a feeling of rare kindness and humanity in the Buddhist style. The artist would have realized a Buddha with feminine delicacy in tribute to Empress Wu Zetian. On either side of the Losana Buddha, two disciples, two bodhisattas, two celestial kings, two warriors and two apsaras, this succession form a sort of replica of the imperial court of the Tang.

Grotto of the medical pre-registration (♀ ╩): The cave dates from the life of the century. It is famous for its 140 medical formulas that adorn the entrance to the cave: an incomparable document for the history of Chinese medicine. More than a hundred of them correspond to herbal recipes and the rest to acupuncture treatment methods.

These remedies helped to treat all types of diseases including certain cancers.

Grotto of Guyang (♀ ╩): It's the oldest set of Longmen. The work began before the transfer of Datong capital to Luoyang, but its development, commissioned by Emperor Xiaowen, began in 494. The beauty of Guyang is the result of impressive imperial patronage: Following the Emperor Xiaowen, his mother and brothers, as well as his uncles, aunts and cousins and subsequent generations became important Benemen's benefactors. This natural horseshoe-shaped cave houses a statue of Sakyamuni of 4.80 m high, sitting on a podium, legs crossed and dressed in traditional kasaya (monk clothing). Buddha is surrounded by two bodhisattles preceded by a lion statue whose body seems unfinished. Of all Longmen caves, Guyang is the one with the largest number of jatakas (bas-reliefs retracing the life of Buddha). 19 of Longmen's 20 most beautiful calligraphies accompany the sculptures of the cave of Guyang.

Temple of Stone Cave (│): This is the last structure of the western hill.

Then we cross the Manshui bridge to the eastern caves. In order and by climbing the steps: the Guanyin with arms and thousand eyes, the cult of the cult of pure land, the cave of Lord Gaoping, the cave of the reading of the sutras and finally a large panoramic terrace to have an overview.

Finally, the Xiangshan Temple and the tomb of Bai Juyi closed the visit.

Literally «Palaces of the Eternal Harmony». It's a visit to not miss under any pretext! Located north-east of the Forbidden City, it is one of the largest, one of the most beautiful and best preserved among the temples of Beijing.

History

Formerly designed to be the palace of one of the emperor Kangxi's sons (1661-1722), Emperor Yongzheng, the building was rebuilt under the emperor Qianlong (son and successor of Yongzheng), who transformed him into a temple Tibetan where more than three hundred lamas were established responsible for studying Chinese and tattoo students. Every day there were ceremonies strongly inspired by Tibetan rites, sometimes barbarian, so we were reproducing with a doll the ritual of human sacrifice, some books even say that «red liquids were incorporated into the paste in which the doll was shaped, in order to reproduce the blood!» '. Everything was accompanied by dances executed by masked men… All this belongs to history now and you will not have the opportunity to attend such ceremonies that are no longer practiced and have been replaced by mere recitations of collective prayers around rice offerings and coins. At the fall of the last dynasty, the temple fell into ruins, and had to wait until an order was made the "national monument" to restore it… and reopen its doors in the 1980 s. Today the temple is inhabited by a community of monks, disciples of the Dalai Lama, members of the reformed Yellow Bonnets Cult (Gelukpa).

Visit

The temple consists of a succession of five courses planted with rooms of worship to the increasing importance as progress progresses northwards.

The first hall, the door of the Harmony (Yonghemen), is traditionally dedicated to Maitreya, the Buddha of the Future, which welcomes the faithful at the entrance of the temple. On both sides of Maitreya are the two pagoda of Longevity, incrusted with long-lived Buddhist symbols. Two pairs of guards protect the God of evil spirits, because according to Buddhism the Earth would be divided into four worlds protected by armed guards. Behind the screen, facing the north, is a statue of Wei Tuo, the protector of Buddhism.

Then we enter the second courtyard, the buildings that framed it are devoted to studying medicine, mathematics, eyelcerism and Buddhist philosophy. You will notice a beautiful collection of tankas (roller-colored paintings) and, at the bottom of the courtyard in the hall of the Eternal Harmony (Yonghe Dian), the three Buddhas of the present, the Past and the Future.

At the bottom of the third courtyard, the Hall of the Eternal Protection (Yongyou Dian), formerly the bedroom of Emperor Yongzheng while still only a prince, now houses three Buddha wooden Buddhas; the Longevity Buddha in the center, framed on the left by the Buddha of Medicine, and on the right by the Buddha to the roaring lion (the one who scares bad spirits).

Then we enter the fourth court. Do not forget to pause for a few moments to admire some examples of lamaic art in the side galleries, and you will discover in front of you the Salle de la Loi (Falun Dian), or take religious services on a daily basis. The architecture was developed according to the plan of a Greek cross and, by lifting your eyes, you will notice the complexity of the ceiling, unrelated to the previous flags. In the center of the hall, a huge golden statue of Tsong Kapa, the founder of the reformed Gelukpa doctrine, which instituted the abolition of marriage and hereditary mandate for its members. On the side walls of the temple, great frescoes reveal the story of Tsong Kapa, and on the wall of the Five Hundred Arhats, disciples allegedly slept in writing the sutras made by Sakyamuni.

The fifth and last courtyard reveals the Ten Thousand Bonheurs flag (Wan Fu Ge), a three-story pavilion, connected to two side pavilions by two hanging galleries. It is also called the tower of the Great Buddha, as it contains a giant statue of Maitreya. This 26 m high statue (18 m above ground and 8 m below), carved in a single trunk of santal wood from Tibet, is a gift made to Emperor Qianlong by the seventh Dalai Lama.

Huashan is one of the five sacred mountains of China. The mount is famous for its four steep granite peaks that resemble a lotus flower (hence its name that means "Mountain of Flowers"). The landscape that jalonneront your hiking is very beautiful. You climb for 7 km to reach the first peak. It takes about 4 hours. It will take you a little more than an hour to reach one of the other three peaks. The south reaches 2 200 m above sea level, but the others offer beautiful views also… and you can then join the three peaks. From northern peak a trail links summits, but there are narrow passages that can be dangerous in bad weather. Traditionally, the Chinese are leaving the evening with lanterns to get to the top of the sun, particularly famous. The sunrise is beautiful but no more. The landscapes have much more interest.

Located about 7 kilometers southwest of the town of Pingyao stands a magnificent but often forgotten, small Buddhist temple. This temple says both forests (literal translation of its name) date from the Wei dynasty of the north (more specifically from the life of the century), but the current buildings were built under Ming and Qing. Apart from this rather common architecture in the region, we will come above all here for the interior of the temple. In fact, it presents nearly 2,000 clay statues of different sizes, stained with vivid colors, dating from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing (a period between xiie and the nineteenth century): fabulous!

Built under the Northern song dynasty (960-1127), the temple of the god of the city was restored and enlarged under the Ming and then the Qing. Today it consists of four courses whose architecture and ornaments illustrate the blend of taoist, Buddhist and Confucian influences. The first large building serves as theatre stage during the temple celebration, which takes place every year at the end of May. The six big boxes on the stage actually serve as a sounding fund to amplify the voices of the players: a simple but efficient acoustic system, probably one of the oldest that exists. On both sides of the scene, the Bell Tower and the Drum Tower give access to the second court, dominated by the main prayer room. 16 murals include mythical or historical events.

The pavilion of the last court houses a statue of clay representing the God of the city, as well as 48 statues with custom faces and expressions, embodying local officials in the service of God.

Qiao Guifa was a poor merchant in the time of Emperor Qian Long, the Qing. He decided to try his luck in the north of the country in Baotou, a city on the road to Mongolia. The flourishing trade, and the Qiao clan, will have its influence for nearly 200 years, until the decline of its activities after the Communist power has arrived. The splendour of the clan today remains only this impressive home, the concept comparable to that of our French castles, whose oldest buildings date back to 1756.

The house is surrounded by a 9 m high wall of grey bricks, with watch towers and guard platforms, as a real fortified city. The door of the residence, surmounted by two bronze panels reminiscent of the family motto («virtue and harmony leads to prosperity»), opens on a 80 m long passage, giving access to the 6 main courses. These are then divided into several secondary courses, forming a set of 20 courses and 313 pieces, divided according to the characteristics of the character «shou», longevity. Each courtyard has its own architecture and style, which makes the house Qiao an architectural jewel of North China under the Qing. This is the site chosen by Zhang Yimou to turn his famous film Epouses and Concubines.

The buildings of Qiao House are now transformed into a museum of popular customs.

At the end of the Yuan dynasty (1312-1313), a Taiyuan farmer named Wang Shi moved to Jingsheng and started trading. Business prospers, and the rich merchant starts a prestigious administrative career: The Wang clan was born and perpetuated over 27 generations and 680 years.

Family ownership has experienced an extraordinary fate: built over a period from Emperor Kangxi to Emperor Jiaqing (1662 to 1820), it was abandoned by the descendants of the Wang clan in 1937, at the time of the Japanese invasion. Local peasants were then suitable until the mid -1990 s, when Shanxi Province decided to classify the site and exploit it for tourist purposes. There were no fewer than 212 families and 600 people in total who had to be evacuated from Wang.

It must be said that with its 123 courses framed with over 1,000 buildings, the Wang House looks more like a small town than a family home. It is made up of two distinct parts separated by a natural divide that is surrounded by a stone bridge. The western part, called the «red door fort», covers 25,000 m ² and comprises 88 courses. Its general plan imparts the Chinese character «Wang», with a central aisle cut by three perpendicular alleys. The eastern part, Gaojiaya, consists of 35 courses. The buildings are characterized by a mixture of gray bricks and wood, and typically typical architecture of northern China. The influences of the south of the country are nevertheless felt in a small part of the home's pavilions.

Today, this large residence is the largest in this part of China, contributing to a ranking at UNESCO. This visit remains an essential part of the region.

In the heart of the historic Beijing district, Lake Houhai used to serve as a port at the end of the great canal linking Beijing to Hangzhou in the south. Delicious for walks, at any hour of the day and night. In summer, we can make a boat, and in winter of the ice chair on the frozen lake. For small and large.

680 hectares of park and this within one of the driest cities in the world… that would almost dream. The forest is certainly very dry, but it is a beautiful walk point if you come to live in the surrounding area. It will allow you to go out of the beaten paths (both inside and out) the time of a pleasant walk. The place should delight children and sportsmen.

A little further than the Lotus Flower, built on a platform at mid-height of the hill, it is the largest structure of Longmen, it represents Buddhist art at its peak. Wooden structures, including the roof, no longer exist today, exposing the wind and rain statues even though the authorities put forward the roofs on the edge of the cliff. Built in 672, the temple was commissioned by Empress Wu Zetian to increase his aura. She would have invested the budget for a year of beauty products to build this place. The Losana Buddha, in the centre, with its 17,14 m height, is the largest statue of Longmen: His head is 4 m long and his ears 1,90 m. Despite its enormous proportions, sweetness and inner beauty come from, producing a sense of kindness and rare humanity in the Buddhist style. The artist would have made a Buddha with a feminine delicacy in homage to Empress Wu Zetian. On each side of the Buddha Losana, two disciples, two bodhisattvas, two heavenly kings, two warriors and two apsaras, this estate formed in some way a replica of the Imperial courtyard of the Tang.

Just after Guyang, these are actually three caves (south, central and north), the most important of which is that of the centre. Built under the reign of Emperor Xuanwu (500-516), in honour of his father (Emperor Xiaowen) and his mother (Empress douairière Wenzhao), they were designed on the model of the temple Lingyan in Yungang (Datong).

The ensemble asked for more than twenty-four years of work carried out by more than 800 000 workers. At the entrance to the centre's cave, two Buddhism guards protect the three Buddhas: that of the Past (Mahakasyapa), the Present (Sakyamuni, the centre) and the Future (Maitreya). In the middle of the ceiling, you can see a lotus flower around which ten apsaras (heavenly dancers assimilated to the girls of joy) fly.

The walls of the cave also contain four banner of bas-reliefs, which are now largely deteriorated. The third, which represents two scenes of Emperor Xiaowen and Empress Wenzhao performing Buddhist rituals, is currently at the Metropolitan Museum in New York and at the Kansas Nelson Art Gallery. Still visible, the first bandeau describes scenes of the Buddha's life, the second of the representations of Buddhist philosophy and the fourth ten-sculptées Buddhist deities and flanked of two disciples and bodhisattvas. Between the central cave of Binyang and the south, the Yique niche containing a 1,90 m high stele commemorates the construction of the caves of Binyang.

In contrast, the cave dates back to the century. She is famous for her 140 medical formulas that adorn the entrance of the cave: an incomparable document for the history of Chinese medicine. More than of them correspond to herbal recipes and the rest to acupuncture methods.

These remedies allowed for the treatment of all types of diseases including certain cancers.

The high relief of the lotus flower that is flourishing at the center of the ceiling finally gave its name to the cave. Its provision is similar to the other structures of Longmen: Buddha in the center flanked by two disciples and bodhisattvas. His particularity lies in the treatment of the disciples, who are the bas-reliefs and not the high reliefs. The walls of the cave are covered with Buddha representations, the smallest of Longmen (not more than 2 cm).

Below, it is the oldest ensemble of Longmen. The work began prior to the transfer of the capital from Datong to Luoyang, but its development, commanded by Emperor Xiaowen, began in 494. The beauty of Guyang is the result of an impressive imperial patronage: Following Emperor Xiaowen, his mother and brothers, as well as his uncles, aunts and cousins, and succeeding generations became important benefactors of Longmen. This natural, horseshoe-shaped cave houses a Sakyamuni statue of 4,80 m high, sitting on a stage, the legs crossed and dressed in the traditional kasaya (monk clothing). Buddha is surrounded by two bodhisattvas preceded by a statue of lion whose body appears incomplete. From all the caves of Longmen, Guyang is the one with the greatest number of jatakas (bas-reliefs depicting the life of Buddha). Nineteen of the more beautiful calligraphy of Longmen accompany the sculptures of the cave of Guyang.

A little further than Binyang, this cubic structure 5,90 m wide, 6,50 m deep and 5,80 m high, built in the 15 000 th century, has more than Buddhist statues. In the centre, the main statue is a 4 m high Amitabha sitting on a pedestal shaped with eight petals (Sumeru), behind which there is a bas-relief representing 54 bodhisattvas seated on lotus leaves. On each side of Buddha, there are four imposing warriors. The walls are covered by miniature representations of the main Buddha. The ceiling is decorated with a lotus flower around which an inscription indicates that the cave would have been completed in 680. The cave at the Ten Thousand Buddhas is the only structure of Longmen with the date of construction, the destination, the names of the benefactors and the masters of work. The cave was once flanked by two "keepers" lions that were stolen.

On the other bank, nestled along the slopes of the East Hill, there are some interesting structures: the Temple of the Reading of Buddhist Scriptures (Kanjing), which dates from the end of the th and early th centuries, the great cave of the Fifteen Thousand Buddhas (Dawanwu Dong), built at the same time as the temple of Adoration of ancestors.

This temple, founded in the th century, is located minutes walk west of the Tambour tower, next to the Hotel Xijing. There is a carved wooden portico, surmounted by Chinese characters in red. Two courses must be crossed before accessing the sanctuary. The original temple was built in 1376 and completely renovated in 1852. It is one of the best preserved Ming and Qing buildings in the province.

On the road to the Qin tomb, near the small town of Lintong, the hot springs of Huaqing. Known from the earliest Antiquity, the old Huaqing thermal baths served as a resort to the emperors and «warlords» residing in Xi 'an.

In the time of the West Zhou (1111-771 B.C.) who were masters in the art of bronze at a time corresponding to the construction of Jerusalem, the emperors had their summer palace in Huaqing, at "the Étang of Nine Dragons". They were going to take the waters, accompanied by their concubines.

In 771, the last emperor Zhou had a little melancholy concubine. To make her laugh, he lit up hoops on the top of the hills, signal to bring all the vassals in case of war. After a while, this game ended up lagging farmers who preferred to throw their work in the fields. And when there was really an attack, they came to defend the kingdom. It is the origin of the Chinese proverb that says: " Drop a kingdom for a laugh. " " "

The pleasure palaces, built around this hot mineral mineral source that came out of the mountain at 43 ° C, also served the following imperial courses of Qin, Han and Tang. The pavilions drawn up that composed the palace had names such as the hall of the Frostbite and the dragon pavilion which murmurs… The palace itself was named from the source, the palace of glorious Purity (Hua Qing Gong). The artificial pond is decorated with a marble boat.

In 644, Emperor Tai Zong built a palace that Emperor Xuan Zong enlarged in 747. The most famous characters associated with Huaqing were emperor Xuan Zong and his very beautiful concubine, the unfortunate Yang Guifei, whose badinages with the emperor greatly helped the decline of the brilliant Tang dynasty.

The site was then taken up by Taoists who built temples such as the one on Mount Lishan dedicated to Nu Wa, the mother of the human race.

In 1936, the famous «incident of Xi 'an» is happening here. Chang Kai-chek was captured by the Communists and released on his promise of collaboration against the common enemy, the Japanese who had invaded China at the time. Another version says he escaped to take refuge in a nearby cave that is shown today.

Following the establishment of Communist China, the government had established a thermal resort (which still exists) with water cures for the workers of the nation. Other recent buildings have been built to protect the ruins of the Tang imperial basins that have been released by Chinese archeologists.