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Mosaïque datant de l'an 560 représentant la carte de la Palestine, église Saint-Georges à Madaba © vvoe - Shutterstock.com.jpg
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Ancient monumental sculpture

Among the precious archaeological sites of Jordan, the city of Jerash knew its apogee under the Roman occupation. Its numerous vestiges bear the trace of the country's polytheistic past. Temples dedicated to Zeus and Artemis alternate with exceptional colonnades as well as about twenty churches. In the heart of a group of Byzantine churches of the 3rd century, the Three Churches

, the church of Saint-Come and Saint-Damien presents on the ground remarkable mosaics of animals.

Between oriental and Hellenistic influences, the lost city of Petra is one with its environment. On the site occupied since prehistoric times, a city developed over twenty centuries before our era. The Nabatean civilization gave it all its grandeur, and made it a real monumental sculpted ensemble. Royal tombs and sculpted facades stand out from this immensity of pink sandstone. Among the highlights of the site, Al-Khazneh (the Treasury) is revealed at the end of a narrow canyon. In front of the "Treasure", immortalized by Indiana Jones, one can only feel a deep respect. Further on, at the top of a flight of 850 steps, the monastery (Ad-Deir)

combines Hellenistic and Arab styles. After the Byzantine period, Petra was slowly abandoned and then fell into oblivion at the end of the Middle Ages.

The Jordan Museum

in Amman traces the history of the Jordan Valley from prehistoric times to the Ottoman Empire. Sculptures and carved friezes complete the collection of artifacts. Do not miss the statues of Ain Ghazal dated to 6000 BC. A major site, Umm Ar-Rasas, on the King's Highway, covers a long chronological line from the 3rd to the 9th century AD, that is, from the Roman period to the beginning of Islam. The sixteen churches of the site contain mosaics of an amazing technical and stylistic quality. Let's mention the mosaic floor of thechurch of St. Stephen decorated with maps of several cities of the ancient Byzantine Empire. In other churches, plant or animal subjects alternate with geometric patterns. Still little excavated to date, the site is already listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Art of mosaic

Among the innumerable influences which succeeded one another on the Jordanian lands, that of the Byzantine mosaic left a strong imprint in Madaba. Indeed, it is the Byzantines who introduced the art of mosaic in the places of worship. So much so that Madaba is known as the "City of Mosaics". It is here that theChurch of St. George

houses the famous map of Palestine, a mosaic dated 560. This richly colored composition represents the biblical land, boatmen sailing on the Jordan River, the walled city of Jerusalem, the Dead Sea. This map, discovered in 1897, sheds a rare light on the Bible and its sources. It is even considered the greatest archaeological treasure of all Jordan.

The art of the mosaic has this exceptional that it is preserved surprisingly well, compared to frescoes and other painted supports. Developed by the Greeks, it was taken over by the Romans and then the Byzantines to decorate religious buildings and private spaces. Archaeological excavations regularly reveal mosaics of great refinement in Petra or in Amman, Jerash or Mount Nebo. This art has become traditional in Jordan and continues to be taught and practiced with talent in Madaba. Madaba, with its craftsmen and its mosaic school founded in 1991, perfectly symbolizes the revival of this art in Jordan. In collaboration with the Institute of Ravenna (Italy), preservation work is being undertaken by restoration experts.

Throughout the city, several hundred mosaics dating from the5th to the 7th century can be admired. Churches and houses present floral and animal motifs, as well as scenes inspired by mythology or daily life. The city, restored with a strong will of authenticity, can be explored in half a day. After the church of St. George, the visit continues with the central mosaic of thechurch of the Virgin Mary. At the heart of the series of mosaics of theChurch of the Apostles, the allegory of the sea shows a sublime goddess who springs from the waves among a teeming aquatic fauna. The oldest mosaic of all Jordan, that of Macheronte adorns the floor of the fortress of Macheronte

. Dated from the first century BC, it is bordered by stylized waves. The Archaeological Museum of Madaba invites you to learn about the various facets of Byzantine culture: sculpture, icons, ceramics.

Umayyad culture

From the seventh century onwards, Muslim and Arab culture became prevalent in the Jordan region.

The decades following the death of the Prophet Mohammed (in 632) saw the establishment of the Umayyad dynasty which reigned between 661 and 750. The Umayyad culture remained impregnated with Byzantine traditions, with the addition of Sassanid (Iranian Empire) and Arab codes. Umayyad art coincided with the emergence of Islamic arts. The "little palace" or Qasr Amra

is one of the castles of the desert in eastern Jordan. Formerly a resort for princes and caliphs, it is decorated with frescoes with figurative motifs, recognized as the most beautiful ensemble of this period. One can notably immerse oneself in hunting scenes showing species of mammals now extinct. In the baths, a multitude of themes are illustrated: female nudes, power, astronomical maps, work of the months. Other palaces house sculptures. Voluptuous women and duly armed men of power are represented in the round or in bas-reliefs. Little by little, characteristics specific to Islamic art appear. In particular, calligraphy began to be used for decorative purposes.

Towards modernism

The Orientalist taste spreads in France at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1822, the painter Eugène Delacroix explored Morocco and brought back sketches, scenes of life and colors that stimulated the imagination. Following him, many artists crossed the Mediterranean. In 1868, the painters Gérôme and Bonnat, and the photographer Goupil followed the "caravan of French painters" intended to depict landscapes perceived as exotic, such as the Sinai or the city of Petra. The story goes that heavy rains prevented them from bringing back satisfactory drawings.

Contemporary scene

Since the end of the 1970s, contemporary art has been making a place for itself in the Arab world. In Jordan, it really began to be taken seriously with the creation of the Jordanian Artists Association in 1978, and the opening of the Jordan National Gallery of

Fine Arts in Amman in 1980. Among the outstanding artists, the painter Adnan Sharif Jordan (1949 - 2009), the sculptor Katia Tal, as well as Osama Khaildi (1932-2010) whose pure forms are reminiscent of calligraphy, the digital art of Ghadeer Saeed and the photographer Bashar Alaeddin. Born in 1981, Alaeddin offers, alongside more polished photographs, nocturnal landscapes with timeless notes.

In 2002, a College of Arts and Design opened at the University of Jordan. In its continuity, the Amman Design Week presents every year the diversity of Jordanian creation.

Another showcase for the talents of the Arab world and Jordan in particular is the Darat Al-Funun cultural center, located in the Jabal Weibdeh district of Amman. It consists of six splendid 19th century villas with a breathtaking view of the city, an archaeological site, a café and a library. The place acts as a platform for contemporary Arab artists and organizes exchanges for this purpose.

Street-art

Jordan is one of the few countries in the Middle East that tolerates street art. Even if it is still preferable to ask for a municipal authorization. However, for the past ten years, this form of expression is no longer considered as vandalism. In the beginning, street art was mainly based on quotations and sentences, so much so that it was nicknamed "street literature": sports, advertising or cultural messages, philosophical or humorous sentences were intertwined. Suddenly, colorful frescoes were spread on the walls. Walls, ceilings, stairs, everything became a usable support. The old neighborhoods, Jebel Amman and Jabal Weibdeh, were the first to be covered with works. Little by little, street art has

gained respect.

In Amman, the young generation shakes up the codes and brings the social debate on the walls of the city. It glorifies its cultural mix: Iraqis, Syrians, Palestinians, communists, feminists, LGBTQ movements and political activists share the city's walls.

For these artists, the aesthetic aspect remains secondary. Street art represents above all for them the best way to express ideas without putting themselves in too much danger. Yazan Mesmar is one of the leading street artists of the local scene. Her mission is to modernize the image of Jordanian society. Bringing more color and cheerfulness is essential for her. However, the government sets limits. It is forbidden to talk about religion or sexuality; be careful with politics. These red lines stimulate the creativity of the artists who are forced to resort to metaphors or suggestions. When the limits are crossed, the authorities do not hesitate to erase the works. All the more reason to hurry up and immortalize them!

Art Galleries

In the 1990s, the opening of the first private galleries encouraged local production. The first gallery was opened in Amman in 1991, in the Um Uthaina district. The Foresight32 Art Gallery has since established itself as the reference in the field. This incubator of the contemporary scene sets up innovative and intercultural projects. Not far from there, in 1993, theOrfali Gallery was born under the impulse of the family of the collector Ina'am Orfali. Paintings and sculptures from the Arab world, particularly of Iraqi origin, can be admired here. Since 1996, theOrient Gallery

has been supporting renowned and emerging Arab artists in the chic neighborhood of Abdoun. One can admire Jamal A. Rahim, the Iraqi Serawan Baran or the Jordanian Ghassan Abu Laban.

The Nabad Art Gallery

in Jabal Amman, a magnificent 1930s mansion, offers a wide variety of international art. It welcomes artists from Pakistan to Korea. Its commitment to intercultural dialogue makes it a must-see stop. The Corner Art Space is located in Abdali (Campbell Gray Living), an epicenter of the current art scene. Exhibitions, meetings and workshops bring together the talents of today and tomorrow.