Estonia and Latvia, predominantly Protestant
Latvia was Christianized relatively late. Today, Lutheran Protestantism is the most important religion. Catholics are concentrated in the east of the country, in Latgale (Polish influence). The Orthodox Church has a large Russian-speaking community. Latvia also boasts six Jewish communities.
As for the so-called "ancient" religion (or, in Latvian, Dievturiba), which strongly resembles those of the Celts, it is still very much present. The same is true of daily traditions. The highlight of its ceremonies is the summer solstice (Ligo, on the weekend closest to June 24). Experiencing them at one of the ancient holy sites (Drusti in Latvia) is well worth a few days' stay. The main mythical being of Latvian paganism, sung especially in folk songs, is Dievs - God, in whom pre-Christian and Christian notions are combined. Dievs remains with men throughout their lives, but the goddess Laima is the one who mainly decides a man's fate. Laima and the goddess Māra are the main protectors of orphaned girls, young brides, pregnant women and women in general. In folk songs, nature is personified by several maternal characters, the main ones being: Vēja māte - mother of the Winds, Meža māte - mother Forest, and Jūras māte - mother of the Waves. The realm of the dead is ruled by Zemes māte - mother Earth or Veļu māte - mother of Souls.
Estonia is considered the least religious of the three Baltic states. The most widely practiced faiths in Estonia are, in order of importance, Lutheran, Orthodox and Baptist. During the period of Soviet domination, one important figure left his mark on the history of Tallinn: Bishop Alexi. He was appointed in 1962 at the age of 32. The son of an old German aristocrat and a pure Russian, he grew up in a bilingual environment, which prompted the authorities to take an interest in him. In particular, he protected the nuns of the Kuremä convent from expulsion. In the 1980s, he played an important role in the Conference of European Churches. The Orthodox confession is represented by Estonia's Russian-speaking community. In 1997, the Orthodox Church was officially reconstituted behind the Archbishop of Helsinki. Estonia is home to a religious minority: the Old Believers, who fled persecution following Orthodox Church reforms to which they did not wish to adhere. Some settled on the western shore of Lake Peipus, and are still there. The villages are connected by the "Onion Road" (a local specialty), between Mustvee and Varnja.
Rīga Cathedral
In Rīga, the Nativity Cathedral, built by Nikolai Chagin in the neo-Byzantine style between 1876 and 1883, was built during the period when the country was still part of the Russian Empire. It is still the largest Orthodox cathedral in the Baltic States. A little anecdote, during the First World War, German troops occupied Rīga and turned this large Russian Orthodox cathedral into a Lutheran church. Once the troops left, it became Orthodox again in 1921. In the early 1960s, the Soviet authorities closed the cathedral and converted the building into a planetarium. The cathedral was later restored after Latvia gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.
Lithuania: from pagan sites to Catholicism
The Lithuanians, with their strong pagan tradition and idolization of the forces of nature, were the last people in Europe to be forcibly Christianized in the 14th century by Grand Duke Mindaugas, as a result of his alliance with Catholic Poland. Belonging to the Tsarist empire brought the Orthodox religion, already established in Lithuania since the 14th century following its rapprochement with Constantinople. Vilnius was known as the "Jerusalem of the North" until the Second World War. After the extermination of the Jewish population by the Nazis (250,000 people), it has gradually regained its influence since independence.
Lithuania is surely the most religious of the Baltic states. Lithuanians were still pagans until the 14th century, when they worshipped Perkūnas, the god of Thunder. Then they became loyal Catholics, but many speak with a tinge of regret about the loss of their pagan rituals. Catholics are in the majority here (80%), as they are in neighboring Poland. The Orthodox Church is represented, as are Lutherans, Evangelicals, Baptists, Islam and Judaism. The Church in Lithuania is separate from the State, and adherents of all religions are equal before the law. Since independence, and in order to re-establish Vilnius as one of Europe's major religious centers, the churches (Catholic in particular) have benefited from numerous subsidies. A symbol of this renaissance was Pope John Paul II's official visit to Lithuania in 1993.
However, until their late Christianization, Lithuanians, like all Baltic peoples, venerated the forces of nature. Around Dievas, the father-god, there were numerous deities representing every natural element and phenomenon. The most popular of these figures is probably Perkūnas, the god of Thunder, still celebrated today by the presence of totem poles. Lithuanians also worshipped fire (cremation was common practice). Read Algirdas Julien Greimas' book on Lithuanian mythology, Des dieux et des hommes, published by PUF. In 1998, the Lithuanians hosted the first WorldCongress of Ethnic Religions, setting in motion a fundamental movement in Europe.
Christmas parties
Light is a central element in Latvian life. In December, it is daylight only around 10 am, and night falls around 3 pm ... But in the darkness shine thousands of candles, garlands or small lamps hung in windows, on trees, in shop windows. In ancient times, light was a divine symbol. It was linked to all the rites of spring and summer: when Latvians worked in the fields, light meant that the sun was there and would provide for all their needs. At the beginning of December, almost every Latvian house is adorned with a kind of small tree of light, made of electric candles arranged in a triangle. In the night, all these small points of light give the impression that a benevolent genie is watching over the house, and that the traveller will always be welcomed. It is as if the person who lit the candles was addressing every passer-by and wishing them a merry Christmas. But apparently this comes from Christian tradition. The tree, like the Christmas market, is a German "invention". Florists sell advent wreaths of all sizes, made of fir, wood, moss, decorated with pine cones, baubles, chestnuts and all kinds of candles. The advent wreath represents the cyclical conception of time. The principle is to let a candle burn every Sunday before Christmas, and the tree is put up on the first Sunday. The gifts are placed under the tree as they come, but everything must be ready for the last Sunday of Advent. Santa Claus traditionally distributes them.
The Latvian society, although Christianized, is therefore somewhat divided between those who follow the Catholic, Orthodox or Protestant rites, and go to mass for example (this is generally the case for adults), and those who prefer the pagan tradition. Children are introduced to these traditions at a very early age, as their parents consider it important to perpetuate these rites. Also, in kindergarten, costumed parades are organized, as for a carnival. The costumes symbolically recall life, death or nature (animals, etc.). The choice between the two depends on taste and education, but it is very fashionable to prefer the pagan tradition, which is "more authentic". This tradition can be found even in the Saiema, the Latvian Parliament. Folklore groups come to lead the deputies in their rounds. By their songs, their dances around the building and the use of a large piece of wood, they chase away the problems of the place around which they dance. The piece of wood is then burned with great pomp. Gastronomically, there is no real traditional dish, except perhaps, in the countryside, pig's snout with sauerkraut and potatoes. Each family symbolically invites the four brothers of the "winter festival" (Ziemassvetki) to their home for a feast of pork and grey, almost black peas, which represent tears. All the peas on the plate must be eaten, otherwise "the tears remain". In addition to the usual cakes and fruit, piparkukas, a kind of gingerbread of all shapes, are prepared with mulled wine. The festive season is a special opportunity for the "singing people" to display their artistic talents: at Christmas, they sing and dance, especially with their families. The main purpose is to get together in a peaceful atmosphere, to check that everything is all right. The gifts are given regardless of one's conduct (and especially of one's success at school, for the children), it is a sort of "confidence credit", a chance to start all over again. Christmas night is the longest night of the year. It means that the days will soon grow longer and, in this spirit, we do not go to bed. We must savour the eternal cycle of nature, of time, of the year beginning again. It is said that nature "turns to the other side" just on this day.