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Wildlife in the air and sea

Although Malta's fauna is far less rich and diverse than its flora, it is no less interesting. As far as wildlife is concerned, fossils and prehistoric bones of hippos and elephants have been found, but that was before. Today, it's almost non-existent visually. On the other hand, if you bend down and look, you'll find a few species to contemplate, first and foremost lizards. The Maltese archipelago is home to four endemic species of lizard, found nowhere else. All are subspecies of the Maltese wall lizard(Podarcis filfolensis). The first(Podarcis filfolensis Maltensi), generally greenish and sometimes speckled, is widespread on the islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino. But the other three have extremely small territories. One of these is found only on Fungus Rock, a large rock forming a small island to the west of Gozo. This is the Podarcis filfolensis Generalensis , with its reddish belly and blue sides. The second didn't stray far from the islands of St Paul's Bay, but this color-changing Podarcis filfolensis kieselbachi has seen its population virtually wiped out since 2005. The third (Podarcis filfolensis filfolensis), the largest, with its blackish color and bluish spots, is found only on the island of Filfa, south of Malta, which has been declared a nature reserve to preserve this extremely rare species. During your walk, you may come across Mediterranean chameleons, snails (sometimes eaten), a painted frog (the archipelago's only amphibian) or, more certainly, dragonflies, as they are very numerous (eleven species listed, two of which are migratory) and come in many colors. And butterflies, as the archipelago boasts 600 species of lepidoptera (butterflies and moths), some of which are endemic. These include the recently discovered (1998) bahrija tat-tenghud(Hyles sammuti Eitschberger), the ir-rubin(Phragmatobia fuliginosa melitensis Bang Haas) and the very large and colorful farfett tal-fejgel(Papilio machaon melitensis Eller). The latter is common in France, but there is a Maltese subspecies. Some of these butterflies are migratory. The farfett tax-xewk(Vanessa cardui), for example, arrives in large numbers in autumn and spring from the coasts of North Africa.

The island is also home to four species of snake, all non-venomous. Among them is the leopard snake (Elaphe situla), associated by the Maltese with the reptile that bit St. Paul after he was shipwrecked on the island's north coast. Nevertheless, it's the birds that will be the most observable animals. In all, there are 375 different species, most of them small, but only 20 species are present all year round (50 species in winter). 112 species are regular migrants and 180 species are occasional migrants.

Among those that are rarely or never found in France, here are those you might be lucky enough to encounter:

The bluebird(murill in Maltese). This Maltese national bird can be found all year round on cliffs and rocky hills. The male is blue, more or less dark, with black wings, and its "tac-tac" call is easily recognized. This is a typically Mediterranean species that can be found in the south of France.

The European Bee-eater (qerd in-nahal) is the most colorful bird on the island, if not in Europe. It is yellow-brown above and blue-green below. As its name suggests, it feeds on insects. It lives in colonies and can be found in Malta in spring.

Spanish sparrow(ghammiel tal bejt). Very common in Malta but absent from France, it resembles our house sparrow. It is characterized by a blacker, broader throat patch. Found all year round in populated areas.

The spectacled warbler (bufula hamra) is one of the archipelago's smallest birds (12.5 cm), common in open or bushy areas. Its "spectacles" can only be seen at very close range. A very common species in North Africa, it can also be seen in summer in Provence and Corsica.

You can also see orioles with their pretty bright yellow plumage, kestrels, least bitterns, woodcocks, short-eared owls, ducks and numerous swallows that seem to benefit from the permanent winds.

The underwater fauna, on the other hand, is much richer. It would take too long to list all the species, but divers will encounter groupers, octopus, damselfish, gurnards, stingrays, red mullet and a few moray eels. Further down, you'll find walleye, scorpion fish and worms. There's little chance of encountering a shark. As for tuna and dolphin, they are rare and can only be encountered in winter.

Gozo, the green island

To appreciate Maltese flora, it's best to come at the right time of year, as it can be seen before the heat of the year, in spring, but also afterwards, in autumn. As it is typically Mediterranean, its dominant flora is that of the garrigue. In the maquis, you'll find thyme, rosemary, heather, caper, prickly pear and succulents that can withstand high temperatures and low rainfall. In spring, poppies, daisies and crown chrysanthemums add a splash of color. Another good way to admire Maltese flora is to explore the small valleys, especially on Gozo. In the right seasons, Gozo has the reputation of being a green island. Typical Mediterranean shrubs include oleander, sumac (which supplies lacquers and varnishes), castor and its large palmate leaves (whose oil is used in pharmacy), pomegranate, umbrella pine and, of course, the olive tree, symbol of the Mediterranean. We also come across the evergreen carob tree (whose seeds are used in the food industry), the tamarisk (a tree with small leaves and clusters of pink flowers), the almond tree, the fig tree and the prickly pear, which is easily recognizable and contributes to the exotic character of the landscape. Other shrub species have been imported, such as ficus, hibiscus and bougainvillea, which embellish the landscape with their flamboyant flowers. Forests have almost completely disappeared from both islands, probably due to the climate, the herds and the growing need for arable land. Two green areas remain: St Anton Gardens and Buskett Woods. In the latter, you'll find cypress, oak and ash trees, as well as a few palm trees, whose dates are sold in local grocery stores to make mqaret, the national delicacy. Vines are also present in small patches, particularly in the south of the country, as are orange and lemon trees. Last but not least, olive trees are also making a comeback, after a period when they had become very discreet due to the overuse of wood and the search for land. With the help of the European Union, some 90,000 olive trees have been planted, producing an oil with the reputation of being the least acidic in the Mediterranean.

Heading for nature reserves

Although they only cover a small area, they are ideal for observing flora and fauna. The oldest is Ghadira. Neighboring Mellieha Bay and managed by volunteers from Birdlife Malta, it provides an opportunity to observe the flora and fauna specific to a marshy area located around former salt pans. In particular, it is an important refuge for migratory birds (over 200 species recorded). Not far away, between Xemxija and St Paul's Bays, the Simar reserve is another haven of peace for birds and reptiles. In the south of the island, the II-Ballut reserve, near Marsaxlokk, is also home to a salt marsh wetland. To observe the weasel, which is very rare on the island, head for Wied Gholliega, in north-east Malta. It's also renowned for its mushrooms and its wooded park, which offers optimal nesting conditions for protected birds. In terms of flora, note that the Pembroke reserve, classified Natura 2000, showcases the Maltese garrigue in all its diversity. It is also home to a plant diversity that is rare on the island, including two orchid species found nowhere else: the thorny burnet and the limonium. Another must-see is the Majjistral Nature and History Park, which covers a large part of Malta's north-west coast, passing through Golden Bay. This is the only nature park in the Maltese archipelago, and since 2007 it has boasted a significant ecological and rural heritage: 430 endemic plants (Maltese euphorbia, pyramidal orchid, Maltese lavender, etc.) and over 1,300 plants introduced since its creation (carob, myrtle, evergreen oak, etc.). Last but not least, 30% of Malta's territorial waters are marine protected areas, including a long strip along the island's northeast coast and others at Mġarr ix-Xini, Dwejra and between Għar Lapsi and Filfa.