Typical products and lifestyle
Linguistically, culturally, economically and gastronomically, Elba can be subdivided into three distinct territories: the central region of Portoferraio, the eastern slope and the western slope. In the center, seafood dishes are legion: "the best meat is fish", as the saying goes. These include squid with chard, polpo all'elbana, cod with chickpeas, risotto with squid ink... The specialties of the eastern region, meanwhile, are characterized by dishes requiring lengthy preparation, such as stocafisso alla riese (a fish soup of Ibero-Moorish origin accompanied by anchovies, onions, tomatoes, basil, black olives, pine nuts and capers), or gurguglione. The western part of the region is characterized by high hills with chestnut groves on the slopes, particularly on the Marciana mountainside. So it's only natural to find chestnut-based dishes such as castagnaccio (a traditional chestnut flour cake), chestnut fritters and cooked chestnuts flavored with wild fennel seeds.
Culinary crossbreeding. From the 13th to the 16th century, Saracen invasions were frequent. This oriental imprint can be found in some of the region's specialties, which include pine nuts, almonds and raisins. This is particularly true of Elba's signature dessert, schiaccia briaca, which features ingredients typical of Middle Eastern cuisine. Back then, this dessert was less sweet than today's, with no yeast or eggs, making it a perfectly suitable provision for sailors.
In the 16thcentury , Spanish domination influenced local cuisine, introducing new foods such as tomatoes, peppers and potatoes from the New World, not to mention cod, caught in the North Atlantic. This culinary cross-fertilization gave rise, among other things, to two dishes that are still present and often served in restaurants: sburita (a soup made with cod, garlic, olive oil and stale bread) and gurguglione (a vegetable stew, similar to ratatouille in Provence).
A fragile culinary heritage. Tourism can have socio-cultural side-effects, such as the loss of culinary identity. This was unfortunately the case for the island of Elba, following the tourism boom of the 1970s. In order to offer dishes that would appeal to as many people as possible, island eating habits became standardized. A logic that devours diversity... But this is without taking into account the "gastronomic resistance" that has taken hold on the island in recent years, notably with the creation of rural development associations such as Elba Taste, which promotes local products and the terroir of yesteryear. New horizons for tourism, linked to the culinary identity so typical of Elba!
The island also produces a top-quality extra virgin olive oil(olio extravergine di oliva dell'Elba) with the IGP label. The salty air of Elba gives olives a particular flavor and aroma. One of the many regional vegetables is the Nero di Toscana palm cabbage, with its long, curly leaves and slightly bitter taste.
In the archipelago, as in the rest of Italy, a complete meal follows a precise protocol: antipasti, primo piatto (pasta), secondo piatto (meat or fish) and contorni (side dishes, usually vegetables) and dolci (desserts). Like the rest of the Mediterranean, Italians eat late. Lunch is taken around 1pm-2pm, and dinner is rarely taken before 8pm. In restaurants, a coperto is added to the bill, a kind of tip that includes service and bread. Water is always payable (but never very expensive), and bottles will be offered to you straight away.
The basics of Elba Island cuisine
Elba's terroir is mountainous and uneven. Hard to compete with neighboring Tuscany! However, the island boasts undeniable gastronomic assets that will appeal to gourmets and gourmands alike.
First of all, the fish-filled waters surrounding Elba offer islanders a profusion of fish such as tuna, bonito, mackerel, sardines and anchovies, not to mention spider crabs and, of course, the indisputable octopus. But don't forget the vegetables, with the succulent gurguglione, a kind of local ratatouille, served hot as a side dish or cold on a slice of toasted bread rubbed with garlic as anantipasto.
A symbol of the city of Livorno and its region - of which Elba is a part - cacciucco is a stew containing a multitude of seafood products such as cuttlefish, octopus, conger eel, mussels, etc., simmered for a long time in a tomato sauce spiced with white wine. Anecdotally, cacciucco was much appreciated by Napoleon during his stay on the island! Another classic, stoccafisso alla riese, is a cod stew(stoccafisso, from the English stockfish) with Ibero-Moorish influences, garnished with tomatoes, anchovies, onions, basil, black olives, pine nuts and capers. Stuffed sardines or anchovies(sardine/acciughe ripiene) are garnished with a mixture of breadcrumbs, garlic and parsley. Spaghetti alla margherita (local name for spider crab) is served with a delicate sauce made from spider crab meat, tomato, white wine, garlic and chili pepper.
Whether cooked alla cacciatora (hunter's style), boiled, simmered or in a salad, on Elba, octopus is at its best! Intimidating and unattractive, octopus flesh is nevertheless delicate in flavor. Until the late 1980s, it was not uncommon to come across vendors armed with a cooking pot and small forks, selling octopus tentacles accompanied by a glass of Aleatico. All the locals and miners would gather in the village squares after the day's work. A custom that, for many, has now sadly disappeared. One of the island's star recipes is polpo all'elbana, octopus simmered for a long time with potatoes and herbs. Alternatively, the simplest polpo lesso is simply boiled, cut into pieces and drizzled with olive oil.
Desserts and drinks
One of Elba's most famous sweets, schiaccia di Pasqua, originated in Tuscany in the second half of the 19th century. An emblematic Easter brioche, schiaccia requires a fairly long preparation time. This brioche is known for its unique flavor combining mint liqueur, aniseed and orange zest. Schiaccia briaca, on the other hand, is made for the festive season. It contains raisins and pine nuts, wine and, of course, Alchermes, a sweet liqueur flavored with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and cloves, giving it its red color.
Another local specialty, schiacciunta, takes the form of a large crunchy cookie flavored with lemon zest, prepared during the coldest months of the year. Lard is used instead of butter for this recipe. Sportella is a type of aniseed-flavored bread, shaped like a crown with overlapping ends. It was customary for engaged couples to exchange them at Easter. The island's mountain slopes are home to many chestnut trees, so it's only natural to find the rustic castagnaccio, a chestnut flour cake topped with pine nuts and dried fruit. Last but not least, imbollite, an ancient pastry similar to a compact fig scone.
Elba's honey(miele) is considered one of the best in the country, and the island's flag - designed by Napoleon himself - even features three bees. It can be made from chestnut or eucalyptus, but also from rarer species such as rosemary, thistle, heather, lavender and arbutus.
When it comes to wine, the island boasts some precious DOC wines (Denomination of Controlled Origin), obtained in 1967: Elba rosato (rosé), Elba bianco (white) and Elba rosso (red). We'll also take a look at two lesser-known but highly promising grape varieties: Ansonica and Vermentino. But the most famous is Aleatico, with its DOCG appellation, the highest recognition for Italian wines. This rare red grape, Napoleon's favorite, is a sweet wine with aromas similar to Muscat. Selected and harvested at very advanced maturity, the grapes are exposed to the sun for six to ten days before being classically vinified.
