The Elbe at your own pace
Thanks to the GTE, it's possible to reach the west coast, i.e. the village of Patresi, from the northeast end of Capo Vita, and vice versa! The hills that form the backbone of the island offer magnificent views. The delicate scents of flowers change with the hours of the day. This mythical route stretches for some 60 kilometers along well-developed paths, and generally requires around 25 hours' walking (although some sports enthusiasts break records!). The trail is divided into four sections, some of which you can follow on your own. From forgotten valleys to rugged peaks and ridges, the GTE traverses breathtaking scenery. Here are the stages:
Stage 1 - "Eastern summits": Cavo to Porto Azzurro
This first stage covers a distance of 17.75 kilometers and takes an average of 8 hours. Starting from Cavo, on the northeastern tip of the island, this first stage introduces you to the island's fragrant maquis, with a succession of ascents and descents. Along trail no. 260, towards Monte Grosso, stands the mausoleum of the Tonietti family. An eminent family, they were the first owners of the iron mines on the eastern coast of Elba after national unity. This original building, the only one of its kind on the island in the Art Nouveau style, offers a glimpse of the many discoveries to come, amid the wild vegetation of the Elbe. A vast panorama awaits the walker: to the east, the iron mines of Rio nell'Elba and Rio Marina, to the west, Portoferraio.
Taking the tarmac road towards Rio nell'Elba and then path no. 203, a short detour from the main itinerary leads to the Orto dei Semplici. Created in 1990, this charming botanical garden, located close to the hermitage of Santa Caterina, is home to rare, spontaneous plants endemic to the island of Elba.
The summit of the day: the Cima del Monte which, despite its altitude of 516 metres, requires a lot of energy before you can enjoy the view of Porto Azzurro, your arrival point.
Stage 2 - "Napoleon's woods": from Porto Azzurro to Procchio
Less rugged, this second stage of the GTE is probably the least demanding of all. It is 20.56 kilometers long and takes an average of 7 hours. It crosses the hinterland of the central region, partly following an old military road immersed in Mediterranean scrub. The route always heads west.
Trail no. 221 leads to San Martino, the country and summer residence of the French emperor in exile. Napoleon was captivated by this pretty vineyard-planted valley with its breathtaking views of the sea and Portoferraio, which he discovered on horseback.
The trail continues through a thick pine forest to Monte San Martino, the heart of Elba, and then on to Colle di Procchio, close to the village of the same name, with the sea in the background.
Stage 3 - "The granite summit": from Procchio to Poggio
Monte Capanne! You're about to discover a real playground for mountain lovers... but in the middle of the sea. The distance is 11.84 km and takes an average of 5 hours. The route starts from Strada Provinciale no. 25 up to Monte Castello, where the panorama opens out onto the Gulf of Campo. At Monte Perone, a short detour is recommended: path no. 107, which leads to the granite workers' village of San Piero. The path crosses ancient quarries that tell of a past of stonecutters and quarrymen, under the watchful eye of mouflons.
The landscape traversed on this third stage is made up of smooth granite rocks and low, fragrant vegetation, allowing the eye to wander relatively far. At the summit of Mount Capanne, the highest point on Elba (1,019 m), a marvellous panoramic terrace awaits you, overlooking Corsica, Capraia, Pianosa, Montecristo and Giglio. Unforgettable! Then it's time to start the (sometimes steep) descent to Poggio, under oak and chestnut woods.
Stage 4 - "La via del Troppolo": from Poggio to Patresi
Last day of walking along the ancient communication route on the island's west coast, a target of 16.28 km and an average duration of 8 hours. Depart from Poggio, along trail no. 105, towards the ridge of Monte Giove, densely covered with chestnut trees. The beautiful granite-paved road leads to the hermitage of the Madonna del Monte, at an altitude of 627 metres. This famous 14th-century sanctuary was an important place of pilgrimage on Elba, and Napoleon liked to visit it because the panorama enabled him to control maritime movements around the island. From here, continue through the thick undergrowth of heather and arbutus to path no. 125, where the descent to Patresi begins, and the end of a 4-day journey that will have covered a distance of almost 60 kilometers and approximately 25 hours of excursion.
Nota bene: we chose this route, from Poggio to Patresi, for this last stage because it is the traditional route of the Grande Traversata Elbana. However, there is an alternative, shorter route from Poggio to Pomonte, which is 9.26 kilometers long and takes an average of 5 hours to complete.
Practical advice
Cross the maquis, climb Mount Capanne, follow ancient mule trails, reach the coast... elba lends itself perfectly to hiking and trekking. But if you want to make the most of your discovery, it's important to follow a few recommendations and rules of etiquette. In particular, it's important to say hello to any hikers you meet along the way, and to give way to walkers climbing narrow paths. It's also important to opt for comfortable, hard-wearing clothing suited to the season, as well as appropriate walking shoes and a practical backpack for carrying water, especially in hot weather. Binoculars are an invaluable tool for observing the landscape and its wildlife. Remember to close fences after you've left. Finally, don't pick wild flowers, which are often protected on Elba.
The best time to hike the famous Grande Traversata Elbana is between June and October, when the trails are passable in good conditions. Although the trails are well-marked with red and white signs, it's essential to have a good map with you.
Before setting off, the website of the National Park of the Tuscan Archipelago is a must: www.islepark.it. It's a mine of useful information to help you embark on this great crossing with peace of mind, with every stage explained in minute detail. For on-the-spot information, visit the visitor centers in Marciana and Rio nell'Elba, open from April to October. And as the best gourmet stops along the GTE can be found on the Elba Taste Facebook page!