Hunting and fishing: lifestyles that are still well established

This traditional way of life still exists today in Greenland. More than 2,500 families still depend directly on it, especially in the east and north of the country. This is the case, for example, for over 90% of the population of Tiniteqilaaq. In 2021, over 5,000 professional hunting licenses, known as Piniartoq (hunter), and over 2,000 leisure hunting licenses, known as Sunngiffimmi (free-time hunter), were issued, representing over 14% of the total population. While hobby hunters are not allowed to resell the products of their hunts, they are exceptionally allowed to do so for meat, provided they do not cause unfair competition. Greenlanders are also allowed to hunt reindeer, musk oxen, polar hares and birds, but it is above all the purchase of fish, including halibut and shrimp by the factories (resold abroad), that is the main source of income for Greenlanders today. Fishing and bird-hunting quotas are set annually on the basis of biological advice provided by Pinngortitaleriffik (Greenland Institute of Natural Resources) in cooperation with several international fishing organizations and also in close collaboration with WWF. Generally speaking, fishermen earn a very good living, especially with global warming increasing the number of fish. Conversely, the traditional hunting culture is under threat for the same reason (fragile pack ice, unstable weather conditions, etc.).

The kayak, an Inuit invention

The kayak - or qajaq as it's known in Greenland, "man's boat" or "hunter's boat" - is an ancient invention that was indispensable for hunting and fishing. It has become the symbol par excellence of the Inuit people's adaptation to the extreme conditions of the Arctic. From an early age, Inuit learned to balance on a rope and maneuver these boats. Today, they are still used for this purpose, especially in the north of the country (the Qaanaaq region, for example), where narwhals are hunted in the traditional way, using a kayak and a hand-thrown spear (far more difficult than modern gun hunting!).

Dog sledding, the ultimate transportation

Kayaking may have waned in Greenland in recent decades, but so has sledding, but for a different reason: global warming and the consequent uncertainty about the strength of the pack ice or the lack of snow. But if conditions are favorable, Greenlanders will always prefer their dogs to snowmobiles: they're lighter, safer, more economical and don't run out of gas! However, more and more Greenlanders continue to fish by boat during the winter, which makes their task much easier. This is especially true for the Ilulissat region, and less so for the north where, logically, it's colder. Dog sledding is only permitted north of the Arctic Circle on the west coast, and in all towns on the east and north coasts. The art of mushing is generally learned from an early age, and is indispensable for successfully guiding tough Greenlandic dogs with incredible strength and an uncanny ability to read the environment (sense holes or water spots, generally a bad sign on pack ice...). Techniques differ according to region and terrain. In the Thule region in the north, they are rather heavy and massive because of the long distances involved; in the Ilulissat region on Disko Bay, they are rather short and maneuverable because of the steep mountains; in the east, they are rather light (inspired by the explorers Nanssen and Paul-Émile Victor, as well as European and Alaskan harnesses) because of the high mountains and greater snow cover. Another notable difference is that the dogs are all tied fanwise, but two at a time in the east, whereas in the west they are tied one at a time. To adapt to rough terrain, all sleds are assembled using cords and sinew (without nails). In the past, mushers used sealskin to make their lines, but today they use nylon, while the whip (iperaataq) is still made of sealskin.

Modernity and identity

Greenland is not just a land of tradition, and some Greenlanders take offense when they see their country reduced solely to Inuit folklore. A mixture of cultures has since developed and a new identity has been built. Modern Greenland is a skilful blend of modernity and Inuit traditions. When you arrive, you'll probably be surprised by the crowded airports, the busy fishing ports, the modern businesses, the international brands, the educational institutions, the contemporary design architecture of some buildings, the cinemas, the skateparks, the cafés, the cell phones... a far cry from the stereotypical vision of the Arctic! Did you know, for example, that 98% of the population uses digital telecommunications services? Or that Greenland, through its company Royal Greenland, is the world's largest supplier of cold-water shrimp? The country's largest cities, Nuuk, Ilulissat and Sisimiut, are home to a dynamic urban life, while the smaller towns continue to live largely in the traditional way, with fishing and seal hunting as their livelihoods.

Greenland's national character has been gradually asserted throughout the country's history, notably when it obtained autonomous status from Denmark consecutively in 1979 and again in 2009. Despite a certain populism on the part of certain political parties in power, a majority of Greenlanders wish to maintain a privileged relationship with Denmark, which is currently seen as an equal partner rather than a country to be separated from at all costs. The result is a strong sense of identity, similar to that of all colonized countries: the "forced" appropriation of the colonizing country's culture, followed by the need to reconnect with one's culture of origin (see Albert Memmi's remarkable book Portrait du colonisé). Unlike Canada, Denmark - and in particular Queen Margrethe II, who is much appreciated locally - helps and encourages Greenlanders to reconnect with their Inuit culture.

Inuit, Eskimo, Kalaallit, Greenlanders, Danes: what do you call them?

So many words for one and the same people, it's enough to confuse anyone! Here's a quick definition of each term to shed a little more light on the issue.

Inuit. This term refers to the indigenous peoples living in the Arctic regions of Canada, Alaska and Greenland. In Greenlandic and Inuktitut (Canada), it means "the humans", "the people" and "the natives". It is the plural of Inuk. In Greenland, most people are not accustomed to using Inuit, since they call themselves kalaallit. There are, however, a few who do use it, including pro-independence political parties (the Inuit Party) and the younger generation, who frequently use the hashtag on Facebook or Instagram: #proudtobeinuk. In any case, if you want to use the term Inuit, perhaps the most judicious way would be to say: Greenland Inuit.

Eskimo. This term is said to derive from a Canadian Algonquin word meaning not "raw meat eater", but "those who speak a foreign language". It was later taken up by the first French-Canadian missionaries, then popularized by explorers in the 19th century, until it was spelled "eskimo" and gave rise to the science of eskimology (of which there is a research center at the University of Copenhagen). You'll often hear this appellation derogatory, but in fact Greenlanders don't really reject the term, and sometimes use it to refer to the old days. So, "You, you're an Eskimo" can mean "you, you're very traditional"!

Kalaallit - Greenlandic. Kalaallit means "the Greenlanders", and is the plural of Kalaaleq. The name was chosen by the Greenlanders themselves. It is undoubtedly the best name for the inhabitants of Greenland, since it is a self-designation that encompasses all the country's indigenous inhabitants. However, it does not include people of foreign origin, often referred to as " qallunaat ", i.e. "whites" or "Danes".

Danes. Although Greenlanders have been granted greater autonomy, they still officially hold Danish nationality as an autonomous territory of Denmark. Nevertheless, the country is officially called Greenland (Kalaallit Nunaat) and its inhabitants are officially called Greenlanders (Kalaallit), with Greenlandic (Kalaallisut) as their official language. What's more, even though Greenlandic nationality does not really exist and is not recognized in many countries, they are entitled to apply for a Greenlandic (non-European) passport.