At the antipodes of France, French Polynesia gently unrolls its carpet of flowers and shells, its heady scents and its palette of enchanting colours. Spreading over an area larger than Europe, the 118 emerged surfaces and the five archipelagos are the object of all fantasies and offer a panel of landscapes of rare diversity. While it is often summed up in its exceptional seabed and romantic hotels, Polynesian paradise finally holds many surprises in store for those who take the time to escape from the beaten track.
Societies, between sea and mountains
It is on the Windward Islands that you will tread the Polynesian soil for the first time. Capital of the territory and capital of Tahiti, Papeete is the economic and administrative centre of the archipelago of societies. If the city is not a destination, it is a pleasant bridge between the world you have just left and the one you are about to explore
For a two-week stay, the Companies alone offer an interesting concentrate of what Polynesia has to offer. Most of them are high islands, with both their green landforms and their strikingly clear lagoons. Then it's a question of choice: Bora-Bora seduces hotel comfort enthusiasts; its neighbour Maupiti, more (p)reserved, delights lovers of authenticity; Tahiti and Moorea, the dynamics, delight sportsmen; while others, like Huahine, Raiatea and Tahaa, let time pass by peacefully
Tuamotu, the postcard
But if you have come here to get the postcard, you will have to head north, towards the Tuamotus. A string of 78 atolls spread over a length of 1,500 km, their flight is already over, is a pure joy: simple strips of sand stretching to the horizon, punctuated by coconut palms and protected from the great ocean by a fringing reef on one side, and a rich and nourishing lagoon on the other. And what lagoons! A real palette of turquoise, mint green, navy blue, that an excellent camera even, could not capture as they are so clear and vivid. Renowned throughout the world for their exceptional diving spots, Rangiroa and Fakarava are among the most visited - let's get along well: we are far from the hordes of tourists! - but more reserved and equally accessible, Tikehau wins all the votes when it comes to beaches. Feet in the water is just so rays and sharks don't tickle you!
Marquesas, wild beauty
Yet another world, that of the Marquesas, or the archipelago of all superlatives: the northernmost, the most isolated, the wildest and, undoubtedly, the most rugged beauty. Some 1,600 km from Tahiti, blocks of lava rise from between the waters to form the most daring landforms: volcanoes with sharp peaks, steep cliffs, vast plateaus. Villages nest here and there in the calderas, while herds also graze there, while the narrow valleys are home to lush vegetation composed of banana trees, orange trees, grapefruits, mango trees and countless tropical plants that have not been recorded. Mythical, fantasized lands, the Marquesas never disappoint. Not yet caught up by outrageous civilization, the ancestral culture is largely preserved.
Australes, kingdom of authenticity
From the far north to the far south, the Southern Archipelago also has a distinct identity. Often forgotten by tourists, its seven islands have also kept all their authenticity. Their remoteness has contributed to the preservation of their natural heritage and the development of very specific cultures based on subsistence autonomy. Today, as trade with Tahiti has grown, Rurutu in particular is acting as the "granary of Polynesia" - its tarodières are true masterpieces of agriculture! From a geological point of view, the Austral Islands have an interesting melting pot: the high islands of Tubuai, Raivavae, Rimatara and Rapa are located alongside the uninhabited islets of Maria, an unsuspected atoll, and Marotiri, an unwelcome rock at the southeastern end of Polynesian territory
But if there is one island more curious than the others, it is undoubtedly Rurutu: it emerged from the water in two lifts 12 and then 8 million years ago, it is almost the only "rising" island in Polynesia; its only colleague Makatea, in Tuamotu, is only accessible by boat to the less hurried travellers. The many caves that emanate from it are a real delight for the hiker!
Gambier, forgotten charm
Located 1,700 km southeast of Tahiti, the Gambier archipelago is ultimately the most remote of French Polynesia. Remains of a collapsed gigantic volcano, its coral crown, some 80 km in circumference, protects a small timeless world of eight islands, geologically halfway between Bora Bora and the completely collapsed atoll. Tourists are rare, its discovery is all the more enriching..
An ocean of activities
From sailing to jet-skiing, kitesurfing, surfing or scuba diving, Polynesian waters are a magnificent playground. Among the queen attractions, it is indeed diving that dominates pole position. Lemon, hammerhead, grey, white-tipped or blacktipped sharks, eagle rays, stingrays, tigers or mantas, butterfly fish, dolphins; passes and lagoons abound with these legendary animals often not very shy. From July to October, it is whale season. If Rurutu was until recently "the" whale destination par excellence, these ladies are becoming more and more frequent in Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora
But Polynesia is not just about water. It is also full of innumerable terrestrial treasures that are still little exploited: steep and torn valleys, lost waterfalls, lush tropical vegetation, dizzying ridge lines, peaks sometimes over 2,000 m high, wild coves, steep cliffs... On the high islands, especially the Marquesas, Tahiti and Moorea, the spectacle of the Earth is simply sublime. On foot or on horseback, the interior of the islands is undeniably worth exploring.
As for the less sporty, they will be carried along on fabulous cultural tours, on the marae for example - these ancient places of worship - or even in craft centres. Because in addition to its opulent natural heritage, French Polynesia also boasts a real craftsmanship. From island to island, here are the secrets of tiki carving, tapas making, pandanus weaving or tifaifai, a hand-sewn decorative fabric. Without being able to travel all over the territory to discover the specialities of each island, the colourful market of Papeete offers a summary of all these artisanal treasures
The pearl, a Polynesian jewel par excellence
The second pillar of the Polynesian economy after tourism, the Tahitian cultured pearl, formerly called "Black Pearl", has been cultivated in the territory for more than thirty years. Coveted by high society worldwide, the Tahitian pearl is mainly exported in its raw form, to Japan and China in particular, and to a lesser extent sold in the form of mounted jewellery in beautiful stores in Tahiti, Moorea or Bora Bora. Even better for the curious traveller: the pearl farms on the atolls often open their doors to visitors, some even organize lotteries! As for their place of production, most pearl farms are in fact established on the Tuamotus and Gambiers: there are no longer any pearl farms on Tahiti Island
Whether family or industrial, a visit to a farm is therefore the essential part of any stay in French Polynesia
A fantasy destination, French Polynesia has not finished reasoning its enchanting syllables in our minds
Smart info
When? When? The high season runs from May to October and for the end of the year holidays. The low season from November to April
Getting there. Count one or two stops and around €2,000
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Useful. To prepare your trip as well as possible.
GIE TAHITI TOURISM - More information on the website
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