Climate Uzbekistan

Les montagnes du Tian Shan à l'automne © Sergey Dyonin - Shutterstock.com.jpg

Uzbekistan has a very special position in geographical terms: it is one of only two countries in the world to be doubly landlocked. This means that one has to cross two borders before having access to the open sea. The other country being Liechtenstein, it is clear that the open sea closest to Uzbekistan is much further away, beyond China, Russia or India, and that apart from the Aral Sea and the small Caspian Sea, no body of water can soften the extreme continentality of the Uzbek climate. Continentality accentuated by the mountains in the east of the country, and especially by the large desert areas. In addition to this extreme structural continentality, there are cyclical hazards that further accentuate the harshness of the climate: the lack of water in the rivers and the disappearance of the Aral Sea. There are many reasons why you should avoid visiting the country between mid-June and the end of July!

A continental climate

The climate is continental or even excessively continental: very dry and cold in winter, very hot in summer. Day and night temperature differences are often very large in the desert. During the hottest months, from mid-June to the beginning of August, the mercury rises above 40°C in the west and south of the country. In the leading group, Termez and Khiva, where the air becomes positively stifling. These 40 days of great heat, from June 25 to August 4, even have a name: the Chilian lietnie. In winter, during the forty coldest days, or zimnie tchili, from December 25 to February 5, the temperature drops to -10 °C and the wind is sometimes icy. It can even reach -40 °C in January in Karakalpakstan and in the mountainous regions of Tian Shan and Fan where the passes are frequently closed.

The effects of the disappearance of the Aral Sea

Until the early 1960s, the Aral Sea, one of the largest enclosed seas in the world, permanently created an evaporation bubble inflated with warm air and protective against cold winds from the north, from Siberia. With the disappearance of the Aral Sea, this protection disappeared and the terrible Siberian winds now rush in without any obstacle to stop them. Siberian cold was first felt in Karakalpakstan but also in Khorezm, and it is now not uncommon in Tashkent to see the temperature drop in the middle of winter above -30°C.

Another dramatic effect of the disappearance of the sea is the silting up of a large part of the country, without the government or the population having the means to effectively combat the advance of the desert. Thus, when crossing the Kyzyl Kum desert from Bukhara to Khiva, it is common to see sand dunes gaining a foothold on the asphalt, while a few derisory barriers planted over tens of kilometres attempt to limit the damage. In Tourtkoul, in Karakalpakie, each house has a pile of sand mixed with salt at the entrance. This is the sand that the inhabitants sweep regularly, when they have the time. Because they are first trying to save their crops, a mission that is almost impossible. This accelerated desertification obviously has important climatic repercussions, by increasing the albedo and modifying the composition of the soil, making it unsuitable for crops.

Hot summers

In summer, the whole country is overwhelmed by heat. The Kyzyl Kum desert is hot, the south of the country is idling, and even if the Ferghana valley is a few degrees cooler, the climate is stifling in summer. June and July are the worst months from this point of view, with things becoming liveable again from August onwards. However, the country is not infrequent in this period. Of course you will be very warm as soon as you follow the main stages of the Silk Road, but if your main goal is to do some hiking in the Nurata Mountains or the Fansky Mountains, the summer season is particularly recommended. The relative coolness at high altitudes makes it possible to hike in good conditions and to endure the hottest months more easily. Nevertheless, we can only advise you to take all the necessary precautions to travel in Uzbekistan during this period: take a wide-brimmed hat, preferable to a simple cap, to provide you with sufficient shade running over your head and shoulders. Remember to hydrate yourself as often as possible. Drinking during the day is not very useful, as you sweat a lot and the beneficial effects quickly dissipate, but drink a lot in the evening and morning. Avoid dehydrating drinks such as alcohol, sugary drinks and coffee. Bottles of still or sparkling water are available all over the country, so try to carry one with you at all times. When travelling, carry a washcloth that you can soak in water and put on your forehead to cool down.

Autumnal beauty

This is one of the most beautiful seasons to visit the country. The rainfall is relatively low even though almost every day brings its own little shower. September and October are months when temperatures return to milder levels and the forests are adorned with their most beautiful fiery colours. Crops in the Ferghana Valley are in full swing and the stalls of the bazaars are covered with fresh fruit and vegetables: pomegranates, apples, strawberries, grapes, melons and watermelons... Freshness is guaranteed! In the desert, at the end of October, temperatures start to drop at nightfall and the days get shorter and shorter.

A rather mild winter

Travelling to Uzbekistan in winter is still possible, but you should expect to face negative temperatures, especially in January and February. These are the coolest months and snow is not uncommon even in the desert. Although, as a Westerner, you will be able to enjoy the comfortable heating in your hotel, remember to bring warm clothes. Gas cuts are frequent in winter and the heating may break down. Public transport, apart from the new TGVs and airplanes of course, is not really heated either, and a bus trip in Karakalpakstan in December can be icy. Since the disappearance of the Aral Sea, temperatures have dropped to -40°C in some places.

Spring, the ideal season

April and May are the ideal months to visit Uzbekistan. Temperatures are mild, neither too hot nor too cold, the weather is mostly sunny, marked by a few rare, always short-lived showers. Whether you are in the desert, in the cities or in the mountains, this is the best time. The time when the desert blooms, and the bazaars begin to gorge themselves on melons! Navruz, the spring festival, is celebrated from 21 March and Kovum Saili, the melon festival, from 15 April. In addition to the nature which lives again, according to the rites and traditions inherited from Zoroastrianism, it is also the whole Uzbek society which is celebrating the return of the beautiful days. It is therefore a good time not only for the weather, but also for those who would like to immerse themselves a little more in the local culture.