Tourist Attractions & Monuments Uganda

Hotels in the area compete with each other in inventiveness to brighten your stay outside the confines of Bwindi Forest. All of them organize, directly or indirectly, activities to discover the sublime landscapes and the friendly people of the south-western corner of the country. In addition to the recreations mentioned below, the Nkuringo Walking Safaris (www.nkuringowalkingsafaris.com) and Gorilla Highlands (www.gorillahighlands.com) companies are organizing excursions (with a focus on walking) lasting from a few hours to several days to survey the areas bordering the southern part of the park; they also offer the possibility of crossing the Nkuringo-Buhoma crossing, if necessary.

Hiking. There's nothing like walking on two feet to criss-cross the area. In the south of the park, several hikes, more or less difficult, are included in the program of the lodges. Let us mention, among others, the walk in the residual forest of Nombe, dissociated from the forest massif of Bwindi because of anthropic pressure but whose oars are still cherished by a myriad of birds. The buffer zone (mainly tea bushes) separating the Bwindi protected forest from the cultivated plots, and the hills surrounding Rubuguri, provide opportunities for stretching one's legs. Don't hesitate to contact Karungi Camp which offers - like Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge - a beautiful range of bi-paedic getaways in the south of the park. Cyclists can also rent mountain bikes from Ride 4 a Woman in Buhoma, for example...

Village and community walks. Ideal for cultural immersion enthusiasts, these getaways allow you to visit schools, orphanages and traditional breweries, taste local honey and food, and meet local healers, artisans and farmers. The Nteko Ridge Community Trail in Nkuringo, the outings organized by Karungi Camp on the Rubuguri side, and the walk village developed by the Buhoma Community Development Association may be of interest to you.

Meeting with the Batwa. On the programme of most of the local lodges, this meeting, which is unfortunately not always the most "authentic" and respectful, should allow you to better understand the way of life of the Twa Pygmies, who were evicted from the Bwindi forest when the national park was created in 1991.

Several hiking trails start from Buhoma, Nkuringo, Ruhija and Rushaga to lead you to discover the rich flora and fauna of the rainforest. Experienced ornithologists can, for example, go in search of Grauer's very popular eurylaime (do not hesitate to ask for a guide from the UWA in Ruhija if you wish to discover this colourful bird). Note, moreover, that the UWA has the project to develop the butterfly watching in order to flush out the endemic butterflies of Bwindi. Guided walks start, for the most part, in the morning, but the shortest ones can be started in the early afternoon (at 2 or 2.30 pm). Finally, people who combine gorilla tracking and trekking on the same day do not have to pay twice for entry into the park (US$ 40), but must still pay the US$ 30 for the bird watching or nature walk.

The Buhoma Waterfall Trail is one of the most popular bird watching excursions. In 3 hours return, we enter the heart of an area populated by monkeys, giant ferns and orchids, and following the Munyaga River, we reach a 33 m high waterfall. There is also another Waterfall Trail in the Rushaga area (3-4 hours walk).

Boththe Rushura Hill Trail and the Muzabajiro Loop (Buhoma) allow you to climb a few hills in about 3 hours to embrace the view of the forest and the Virunga. The Habinyanja Trail, a little longer, gives the opportunity to see black bee-eater, black duck and Pel's fishing owl.

TheRiver Ivi Trail will take 7 hours for good walkers to take them from Buhoma to the southwest of the forest (or vice versa), in the vicinity of Rubuguri. You may well come across some wild boars on your way... The Nkuringo-Buhoma crossing (or vice versa) takes the same trail (3-4 hrs walk). The two villages can also be reached via the Kashasha River Trail (6-7 hrs), a scenic but slightly more physically demanding variant.

The Mubwindi Swamp Trail (Ruhija) is a bit of a birdwatcher's Mecca. Your walk (4-5 hrs return) to the depression where the eponymous swamp lies could bring you face to face with a gorilla

The Bamboo Trail in the extreme south-east of the park (access from the Ruhija-Kabale trail) will take you to the highest point of Bwindi Forest, Rwamunyonyi (2,607m), for breathtaking views of the area. Count on 6 difficult hours of trekking during which you will cross bamboo groves..

The Batwa Trail allows you to discover the local traditional culture, that of the Pygmies. Pygmies lived in the forest until 1991. This cultural hike (and one of solidarity since part of the funds goes to the community) is led by Twa guides who describe along the way the different characteristics of their former life in the forest: hunting techniques, configuration of huts, medicinal plants, collection of honey (of excellent quality) in wild beehives, beliefs... The walk ends with a visit to a lava tunnel (Garama Cave) in which the Batwa took refuge during conflicts with neighbouring populations. 200 m long, it is part of a network of galleries that are said to cross the mountain to Rwanda. The Garama cave, in addition to the protection it provided, also served as a court of justice, royal residence and place of palaver. Bring good walking shoes and a good torch (with batteries) for the cave. At the end of the route, twa dances and songs are usually organized. The hike takes about three to four hours. Relatively easy and very pleasant, the Batwa Trail is one of the most informative and respectful tourism initiatives in the region for anyone wishing to learn about the culture of the Batwa, who were robbed of their land (without compensation) and continue to be despised, discriminated against and exploited by both the administration and Bantu farmers.

Experienced hikers can tackle one of the three peaks in the park in a day's trekking. Good physical condition and proper equipment including waterproof footwear, K-way and warm clothing are required. The ascent of the Gahinga should take no more than 6 to 7 hours from Ntebeko. It will allow the discovery of different birds in the bamboo groves and small antelopes on the summit in the marshy crater. A little more difficult, the access to Sabinyo (3 669 m) will take between 6 and 8 hours for 14 km. The summit is divided into three peaks. On the last one, you will find yourself simultaneously in Uganda, Rwanda and Congo. Finally, the biggest challenge is the ascent of Muhavura (4,127 m), whose starting point (Muhavura Trailhead) is 4 km east of Ntebeko. It is very advisable to camp there the day before the trek to start as early as possible. Allow a minimum of 9 hours return journey to cover the 12 km which will take you rather abruptly from an altitude of 1,700 m to 4,100 m (lack of oxygen can be felt). Along the way, you may be lucky enough to come across a superb small Johnston's Sunbird, a passerine endemic to the Afro-Alpine flora, while at the end of the trail a small crater awaits you (swimming is possible, but the water is frigid!) surrounded by giant lobelias and above all an extraordinary panorama of the Virunga, the Albertine Rift, Lake Edward, and even, on a very clear day, the Rwenzori massif.

In the absence of gorillas, you will be able to test your primatologist talents by scouring the bamboo forests in search of the golden monkey(Cercopithecus kandti), a rare species, endemic to the Virunga and classified as endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature following its decimation during the Rwandan genocide and the political instability, still in progress, in the Democratic Republic of Congo (poaching for its meat and skin, destruction of its habitat...). This pretty monkey is characterized by its body, cheeks and tail of a golden orange that contrasts with the black of its skull, limbs and the tip of its tail. The population of golden monkeys in the Mgahinga National Park is estimated at three to four thousand individuals. Because their territorial habits are more marked than those of gorillas, the probability of encountering them is very high. Living in groups of thirty individuals on average (at low and medium altitudes, colonies of sixty to one hundred monkeys have already been seen; a contrario,less than ten individuals generally make up the communities frequenting the higher slopes), communicating by vocalizations and feeding mainly on bamboo (shoots, leaves....), or even an insect larva from time to time, the golden monkey can be observed during a tracking organized by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (count four to five hours of walking), in the morning or early afternoon, from Ntebeko.

Approximately forty-five gorillas live in the Mgahinga region. But in this "golden triangle" formed by Uganda, Rwanda and Congo, the animals know no borders and no one can predict their exact location. Today, however, two families (Nyakagezi I and Nyakagezi II) live almost permanently in the park, where cross-border groups are regularly observed. As the movements of these hominid placids remain unpredictable, the Uganda Wildlife Authority does not normally issue permits for the Mgahinga National Park in advance. For travellers who have been unable to obtain permits for Bwindi, this is the ultimate opportunity. Simply travel to Kisoro and check with the local UWA branch; allow a few days of patience and keep your fingers crossed. Park rangers monitor the monkeys' movements on a daily basis. If the gorillas are there, you can buy your permit at the last minute and prepare for a 3 to 4 hour round trip (less demanding than in Bwindi) to discover our giant cousins in the bamboo forests. The departure is at 8:30 am from Ntebeko, the number of excursionists is limited (eight people maximum) and the duration of the encounter with the great apes is strictly limited to one hour. At the end of 2020, the two groups accustomed to tourists included twenty individuals (9 for Nyakagezi I and 11 for Nyakagezi II), five fewer than a year earlier (one birth and six deaths).

Although the flow of the Agogo, the river broken by these enchanting falls (five cascades forming a front two hundred and fifty meters wide and several dozen high), can vary completely depending on the season, the viridity of the banks and the plethora of mossy rocks of this tributary of the Aswa, which delimits the districts of Gulu and Pader, make Aruu Falls an excellent idea for a trip. Be careful, if you want to go down to the foot of the falls, good walking shoes are essential (the rocks are sometimes very slippery). Also expect, when the water level is high, to have to take off your shoes to cross a torrent. The local guides, who are usually waiting for you at the community campsite (+256 774 591 229), have safety helmets, to avoid trauma in case of a fall . It is possible to bathe, at your own risk, in the lower bathing area. If you don't feel like climbing, don't worry, the views are also photogenic from the top of the falls. From Gulu, follow the Kitgum road (which has good surfacing) for about forty-five kilometres, then take the track (sometimes flooded in the rainy season and rather dusty in the dry season) which leaves on the right of the main road at the entrance to the village of Angagura. Then drive seven kilometres to reach Agogo. A good 4x4, as you will have understood, is indispensable at certain times of the year.

The site of Kaniyo Pabidi is a parcel of the Budongo forest. It is known for the chimpanzee tracking organized by the Budongo Ecolodge: indeed, between 600 and 700 chimpanzees inhabit the Budongo forest, but only the community of Kaniyo Pabidi has been accustomed to the presence of humans. The duration of tracking depends on the location of the primates and is therefore highly variable. Come to the Budongo Lodge for this incredible encounter with our anthropoid cousins.

Bird-lovers will enjoy boat trips downstream to Lake Albert where the chances of being able to observe the famous shoebill (Nile shoebill) are perhaps the best on the continent, especially in the rainy season. Daily departures are at 7am from the Wild Frontiers landing stage in Paraa (left bank): count 55 US$ for a four to five hour cruise. Possibility to have breakfast in the boat.

To complete the vision of the falls observed from the boat, it is possible to go to the top of the gorge (left bank) where you can better measure their incredible power. Here, it is not the roar of the lion that makes you shudder, but the roar of the Nile waters rushing into a breach less than ten metres wide! Spray shower guaranteed, remember to take a plastic bag for your camera and be careful not to slip. From the main point of view, a small path that takes about twenty minutes to cover goes down to offer a more lateral view of the falls made up of two cataracts separated by a grove. Another path will allow you to descend practically to the base of the first fall. The interest of the hike lies in the panorama of the Uhuru Falls, invisible during the cruise. Allow 2 hours on site for the hike, preferably in the afternoon, when the sun has its back to the river, it's much better for photos and for the rainbow! If you feel like it, you can combine a cruise on the river with a walk to the top of the falls. In this case, your nautonier will drop you off at the beginning of the trail where a UWA guide will be waiting for you. It takes about 45 minutes to walk from the river bank. The top of the Murchison Falls is also accessible from the right bank, which is less busy and more difficult to access; the views of the parade are less spectacular.

Bird watching being, due to the density of vegetation, quite difficult in the forest itself, ornithologists will head a few kilometres further south to the Bigodi marshes, an ecotourism sanctuary managed by KAFRED. All profits from the visit are used to finance community projects in the village of Bigodi. The proposed walks last about 3 hours along a 4.5 km route from which some 40 species of birds can be easily identified out of the almost 200 species nesting in the marshes. This trail is a must in East Africa as far as birdlife is concerned. One of the emblematic birds of the area is the superb great blue touraco. You can also observe the crowned crane, hornbill, jaco parrot, yellow spotted barbican and papyrus gonolek. The marshes are also home to thousands of butterflies, numerous monkeys, otters, shy sitatungas and snakes (cobra, mamba, viper, emerald snake). To discover the aquatic world, excellent guides are waiting for you at the KAFRED office in Bigodi. You can also rent boots which are very useful for walking in the mud. Don't forget to bring a pair of binoculars. Specialists looking for particular species can mention this in advance, as some guides are more expert at finding a particular species than others. It is also to their advantage to go on their walks early in the morning.

Those who are not necessarily interested in chimpanzees will be able to go on inexpensive forest walks to discover the different types of habitats. Night walks are worth mentioning: they are ideal for discovering a phantasmagorical world by torchlight (bats, galagos, pottos, tree damsons, snakes, etc.), sensations guaranteed! Departure at 7:30 pm from the UWA offices (if it doesn't rain); count 80 US$ per person (entrance to the park included) for about two hours of walking.

This forest, which extends at the foot of the escarpment marking the eastern confines of the park, is home to many chimpanzees but, unlike their congeners in the Kyambura Gorge, they are not accustomed to the presence of Homo sapiens and nothing is organized to observe them. However, you will be able to hear their characteristic and emblematic cry. The Maramagambo forest is not well developed for tourism, yet it is easily accessible by the track leading to the Jacana Safari Lodge. Various species of primates (Hoest cercopithecus, colobus guéréza, baboon, samango, ascagne...) and birds (bulbul, souimanga, forest flycatcher, white-naped pigeon, Rwenzori touraco...), as well as some small antelopes, enjoy the forest and the undergrowth. Three guided walks (from 2 hours to half a day) are organized, from the UWA rangers' lodge, to discover the forest biodiversity. Walking around lakes, such as the Nyamusingire, and visiting a cave occupied by bats (Egyptian fruit bats) and four pythons are on the programme (another "cave", not far away, is used as a lair for cobras). Chiroptophobes can rest assured: a secure observation platform has been built in the cave to avoid any contact with the bats, which have been identified for the past 15 years as the natural reservoir of the Marburg virus. The ants in the vicinity being particularly voracious, flip-flops, Bermuda shorts and tank tops are not frankly recommended ...

The lush green Kyambura Gorge, which marks the eastern boundary of the park and contrasts with the surrounding savannah, is a deep canyon about 100 m long, 16 km long and up to 1 km wide, at the bottom of which the Kyambura River, whose ripisylve is home to chimpanzee runners, flows towards the Kazinga Channel. The total duration of the tracking usually varies between two and three hours, including a maximum of one hour with our quadrumane friends. The latter, familiar with human presence since the late 1990s, have seen their population increase, but the geographical isolate represented by this chasm is a source of genetic impoverishment. The departures take place at 8 and 2 p.m., but it seems that the chances of seeing the primates are higher in the morning. It is possible to register at the park office, but as the number of places is limited, the safest thing to do is to book in advance at the UWA headquarters in Kampala. The cost of tracking in the gorge is four times cheaper than in Kibale, but the probability of meeting our simian cousins is (much) lower. The access path is well indicated from the main road. In addition to chimpanzees, the vast ravine is home to some two hundred hippos, crocodiles and a large number of birds. Lions, leopards and elephants also come to drink from the waters of the Kyambura. The topography of the area and the demands of tracking require adequate equipment (good walking shoes, covering clothes...) and sufficient water.

A dusty urban enclave north of Lake Edward, the village of Katwe, bordering the lake of the same name, continues the old tradition of exploiting the salt reserves that contributed for several centuries to the prosperity of the kingdom of Bunyoro. Between Katwe and the equator there are several salt lakes created by volcanic activity some 8 to 10,000 years ago. Among these, Lake Nyamunuka, whose green waters are seasonally home to hundreds of pink flamingos and on whose shores buffaloes come to bask and heal (the sulphur emanating from the lake and the minerals of its muddy banks are said to be used to treat their wounds and pathologies), and Lake Kitagata, whose thermal waters are boiling, are two particularly remarkable examples. With a sturdy 4x4, driving the 27-kilometre crater track from Kabatoro Gate to Queen's Pavilion offers superb panoramas of this specific region of the Albertine Rift, which is somewhat reminiscent of Lake Turkana in Kenya. A break at the Baboon Cliff allows you to enjoy a photogenic picture. In Katwe, some villagers have created associations whose objective is to make people discover the historical, cultural and natural heritage of the region: visit of a salt works, bird watching, excursion on the islands of the lake, some of which are inhabited by Congolese who fled the war and live from fishing...

There are several walking trails through the forest. The Base Line Trail follows the main road for 3 km to the Nakyetema swamp. The Hornbill Loop covers a distance of 5 km, fording several streams, while the Butterfly Loop is a short (1 km) walk. The Family Trail, which takes an average of 45 minutes to walk, is marked with explanatory signs. Finally, the Colobus and the Red Tail Trails are dedicated to the observation of colobes and ascagnums.

In addition to the weavers, the lake is home to a wide variety of arboreal, aquatic and shorebird species, such as the emblematic crowned crane. In addition to the islands and wooded shores, birdwatchers can explore the swampy area at the northern end of the lake (Ruhuma Swamp), which follows the course of the Ndego River. Little four-eyes, orange-shouldered euplecte, Koli's serin, aquatic chloropet and papyrus gonolek (which will be appreciated by birdwatchers) are likely to be observed here. To meet the winged gentleman of the Ruhuma swamp, it is possible to stay in the Heritage Camp of Muko, wedged between the lake (where egrets, grebes and purple herons are splashing) and the Kabale-Kisoro national road. It is also possible and easy to make a day trip from Rutinda, Kabale or Kisoro (leaving early). For the moment, but you will have to make sure of it during your trip, the Bushara Island Camp organizes this guided birding in Muko every Saturday; count 50 US$ for the return boat transportation and the visit (duration: 6 hours). The Nyombe Swamp, which is geographically diametrically opposed to the Ruhuma Swamp, is the other major birding site on Lake Bunyonyi. Most of the hotels in the area organise three- to six-hour trips (US$ 40-70 per boat, including guide) to discover the birdlife of this southern marsh: mountain bee-eater, kingfisher, golden-breasted jacana, marsh flycatcher, etc.

The small guided walk to the waterfall will allow you to discover the monument "Darkness to Light", the suspension bridge and the cows grazing in the meadow (their milk is used to feed the infants of the hospital of Kisiizi). Other activities are offered by the centre: zip line, kayaking on the (tiny) pool, mountain bike rental, visit of the hydroelectric power production unit which provides the electricity necessary for the hospital to function properly.

The region is full of possibilities for mountain walks: Mount Moroto (3,084 m), Mount Kadam (3,068 m), Mount Morungole (2,750 m) or Mount Napak (2,537 m), an eroded volcano prized by paleontologists for its fossils dating back twenty million years and marked by its vertiginous peaks... From Moroto, you can climb the eponymous peak while sleeping on the summit or take a shorter hike to a natural pool of water ideal for cooling off after the sweat of the climb. The views from the flanks of the massif are quite breathtaking and you may well spot baboons and dik-diks (dwarf antelopes) along the way. It is best to be accompanied by a guide, as the trails are not marked. Good walking shoes, sufficient water, snacks and possibly your poles are recommended as the slopes are sometimes dry and exposed to sunlight. If you feel like it and if you are naive, don't hesitate to contact Kara-Tunga who organizes treks and hikes (from a few hours to several days) in the volcanic massifs of the area. The most courageous will thus be able to attack the new itinerary traced on the eminences and through the vegetation of Mount Moroto (30 km, 3 days, 2,250 meters of positive elevation gain) or tackle the four summits mentioned above during a ten-day expedition concocted by Kara-Tunga itou. So, to your boots, ready, go!

What could be better than 42.5°C water to relax after a madwoman equipped on the slopes of the Rwenzori? Eureka, Kasese, by its position in the Rift Valley, has what you need! Open to the public in 2013, this thermal spring is located between the road leading to Kilembe and the impetuous Nyamwamba River, which does not hesitate to leave its bed and cause chaos. In situ, you will find rustic changing rooms, swings and a small garden, where local artists sometimes perform, surrounding the spring, which has been designed for the needs of both experienced and novice spa-goers (dear bazungu friends, expect to see your skin turn crimson). You will be able to cause therapeutic virtues of the hot springs by drinking a cool drink either in a hammock or by slumping down on the sandy ground which borders the aforementioned watercourse. In addition to a volleyball court and a fish pond, there is also a Lilliputian museum dedicated to konzo culture. To paddle, listen to traditional music (combining flute, xylophone and drums) and try local dishes (such as bread kneaded with cassava flour), take the direction of this spring located two kilometres north-west of the city centre. Very friendly welcome. NB: the last floods of the Nyamwamba (May 2020) ravaged the site and forced the managers to carry out major rehabilitation work. Let's hope that the situation will return to normal by the time this guide is published!

Located in the centre of Hoima District, the Bugoma Forest and its approximately 400 square kilometreshas more than 265 species of trees (includingironwood), 280 species of butterflies and primates such as the endemic Ugandan mangabey, which is a real attraction. By 2022, it should be possible to practice chimpanzee tracking within the forest massif since the habituation of some of our close cousins is currently underway. Trails have been set up by the National Forestry Authority (NFA) to discover the forest fauna and flora. During your guided forest walk, you might also, with a bit of luck, spot elephants, buffalo and Ugandan cobes, many of which have found refuge in the Bugoma forest following the destruction or disturbance of their natural habitats, caused by the prelude to oil exploitation in the Lake Albert basin. Independent travellers wishing to visit the forest should contact the NFA in advance. Guests at the Bugoma Jungle Lodge, located at the gateway to the forest (five kilometers west of Kabwoya), will be assisted by staff to organize their outing. Despite its undeniable tourist potential, the Bugoma forest is threatened by illegal logging and encroachment on agricultural land(especially sugar cane and tea).

The northern part of the Rwenzori massif also offers the possibility of hiking. Within or on the edge of the park, the hiking trails, which are shorter (1 to 3 days) and less difficult (good physical condition is however required) than those organized in the heart of the range, are not lacking in attractions. The most notorious itinerary is the one linking Kazingo (13 km west of Fort Portal) to Bundibugyo, at the foot of the western slope of the mountain. This crossing of 1 or 2 days (depending on whether or not you climb Karangura Peak) allows you to discover the local fauna, flora and culture. On a clear day, the perspectives on the Congo, Fort Portal and the Albertine Rift are spectacular. It is of course possible to climb the Karangura Peak (3,012 m) in a single day (7 to 8 hours of walking) by making a round trip from the locality of Kazingo. Three-day itineraries and tours are also available in this area, allowing you to sleep in local houses and discover the bakonzo way of life (Rwenzori National Park Boundary Trail) or to climb Karangura Peak via Chogho Ridge (Karangura Peak and Northern Spur Ridge Trail). Finally, at the northern end of Rwenzori, the Karugutu-Ntandi Trail allows hikers to reach the eponymous villages on the Fort Portal-Bundibugyo National Road in 6-7 hours. The trail is available through UWA, Kabarole Tours or the Abanya-Rwenzori Mountaineering Association (www.abanya-rwenzori-mountaineering.org).

If your time is short, if your wallet is not well stocked, if long-distance odysseys are not your cup of tea or if you simply want to walk off the beaten track, don't worry! Indeed, in addition to the Central Circuit and the Kilembe Trail, Nyakalengija, Kilembe and the adjacent valleys are all starting points for slightly forgotten hikes. The UWA thus offers outings to unveil waterfalls (such as Sebwe Falls) and to flush out chimpanzees (at Kinyampanika). The Rwenzori Ranges Hikers Association (www.rwenzorihikers.com), a very professional community organization based in the same complex as RMS in Kasese, is the best way to discover the trails of Bukurungu and Mahoma. The first one, which takes 5 days and allows extensions of one to two days, starts in Omukorukumi (5 km north of Ibanda), and ends in Nyakalengija. Very little frequented, it allows an intimate connection with nature, grandiose. During your trek, you will be able to admire the emblematic scenery of the massif. The second, which culminates in the Mahoma Lake, consists of a 3-day loop from Nyakalengija. In addition to chameleons and primates, you could, with a lot of luck, surprise an elephant. Finally, the inveterate botanists can take the Munyamubuli River Trail in Kilembe with RTS (7-8 hours walk) to discover the Afromontane forest.

Easily accessible from Fort Portal, the caves of Amabere will certainly disappoint lovers of monumental speleothems and speleologists fond of cat flaps ... Indeed, there you will only find very modest cavities. The main one is the limestone concretions (stalactites, stalagmites, columns...) which attract geology students who want to improve their knowledge. In addition to their physical aspects, the caves are full of legends. Used as rock shelters by the natives who came to eat there from 1847 to 1900, they owe their fame to Nyinamwiru. Nyinamwiru was, according to oral tradition, the daughter of a local king, Bukuku. Indisposed by the marriage proposals under which his tendron was crumbling, Bukuku cut off Nyinamwiru's breasts(amabere means "breast" in the vernacular) and slashed her face to dissuade the most assiduous men. As the ugly face did not have the desired effect, the king decided to hide Nyinamwiru from the men's eyes by hiding her in one of the caves in the area. However, the poor father did not succeed in his goal, since a clever pretender managed to penetrate the balm despite the vigilant cerberus posted at its entrance... So what was to happen happened: Nyinamwiru got pregnant and gave birth to a baby without Bukuku's knowledge. Unable to breastfeed her infant, following the removal of her appas, Nyinamwiru would have resorted to mamelliform stalactites secreting a calcareous milk to sustain her baby. The latter, to end (or almost) the story, was named Ndahura and founded the Cwezi dynasty. The caves of Amabere, which you will discover during a guided tour, are located in a depression of green land in which the waters of the Amabere waterfall (7 m high) fall. The price of the visit is a bit excessive. It is therefore better to combine this activity with the hike to Saka Lake (3h30 to discover the waterfall, the caves and three crater lakes). This walk is concocted by the owners of the place who have, in addition, a delicious campground and two pleasant bandas duly equipped (kitchen, washing machine, wifi, rooms with their own sanitary facilities ...). The site is located 8 km from Fort Portal. To get there, follow the RN leading to Bundibugyo for 6 km before branching off on a track going on the right of the road (well marked access).

Just as it is about to finish its course in Lake George, the Mpanga is set in a gorge whose 50-metre-high waterfall is the high point. The riparian vegetation is also worthy of interest since giant cycas(Encephalartos whitelockii) dot the slopes of the canyon. Although morphologically similar to ferns and palms, the giant Ugandan cycas are relics of an order of coniferous plants that appeared more than 300 million years ago and underwent a phase of significant geographical expansion from -250 million years ago. The giant Ugandan cycas, whose female cones resemble pineapples, are thus a 'living fossil', endemic and, like its congeners, critically endangered. Paradoxically, it took the construction of a hydroelectric power station, which at the end of the decade 2000 led to the felling of many cycas, for protection and preservation measures (as well as the construction of a nursery) to be put in place. If the activism of environmentalists has paid off in the case of the cycas, it is for the moment less conclusive concerning the hydraulic installations and the multiple pollutions that affect the flow and quality of the waters of the Mpanga. The construction of a dam, necessary for the operation of the Mpanga Hydroelectric Power Station, has had - and continues to have - an impact on the volume of water falling at Mpanga Falls. Despite this distortion, the site remains picturesque. A handful of diversion bays upstream of the main waterfall is thus conducive to invigorating swimming (however, before going down into the Mpanga bed, find out about the river's hydrological and health conditions). In addition, a trail (The Cycad Trail) has recently been created to help visitors discover the cycads and their environment. Reserved, for the time being, for the most adventurous, it could be the prelude to the tourist development of the area, envisaged by the Ugandan authorities. In the meantime, although access is better today than it was in 1891, when Frederick Lugard - the representative of the Imperial British East Africa Company - crossed the gorge with men, salt and ivory, you will have to take the Fort Portal-Mbarara national road to the outskirts of the village of Rwenjaza (3 km south of Kamwenge) before branching off onto a track (and then others....) for about 20 km to reach, via the locality of Rwengo or Mpanga, the parade.

Among the activities offered within the reserve, there are the game drive (at 7am and 4pm, US$20), bird watching (US$30) and the nature walk (from one to four hours, US$30). The above-mentioned prices include the service of a guide, but do not include the entrance fees to the reserve (for 24 hours: US$ 35/adult and US$ 5/child from 5 to 15 years old). The same goes for the bush camping which consists in pitching a tent in the middle of the bush (20 000 Ush to which you have to add 20 US$ for the ranger; entrance fees and food costs not included) to hear the song of the red-cheeked blue cordon and the snapping of the wild animals... Other enjoyable activities include cave visits, a three-day trek to Mount Kadam and trophy hunting (excluding big cats). If you are interested in hunting, you can make an appointment with James (+256 777 294 754) or contact Karimojong Overland Safaris (www.ugandaprohunts.com). Please note that the UWA seems to be putting a stop to hunting safaris at the moment, so you should check before you take your gun on board.... For further information on Pian Upe, please contact the Uganda Wildlife Authority office in Mbale (+256 454 433 170 or +256 454 435 035). The dry season is undoubtedly the best time to travel through the reserve: the shorter grasslands allow better observation of wildlife; in the same vein, UWA teams, jointly or not with Karamojong herders, practice pastoral burning or "controlled fire" in order to diversify and renew resources (grasses and shrubs): this also contributes to increased visibility. Three additional pieces of information to finish: for the time being, unlike the national parks, it is forbidden to explore the park's trails independently in your own vehicle. Also, remember that Pian Upe is home to leopards, in addition to the monkeys that roam the main road and the pythons that meander along the trails. Leopards sometimes roam around the villages and the UWA camp, so avoid hiking alone in the bush and do not leave the camp after dark unless you have a vehicle. Finally, although large-scale poaching has ceased in the wildlife reserve, the meat you might eat in the communities bordering the protected area has sometimes been poached.

Despite its extraordinary hiking opportunities, Mount Elgon remains relatively uncrowded, even though the number of climbs is steadily increasing. It is a good alternative to the Rwenzori massif or Mount Kilimanjaro. The ascent is not very technical and remains quite affordable. If it is possible (which is generally the case), you should know that while it is easier and cheaper, it can be as rewarding as the ascent of the above-mentioned mountains. Treks can be done all year round, even if the dry season is more favourable (June-August and December-February). Excursions last from two to six days with a daily walking time of between three and eleven hours; they require good physical condition but no special skills or specific equipment. Please note, however, that problems of acclimatization to altitude may occur on the last portion of the ascent. Finally, be aware that the nights are icy on the heights of Mount Elgon, so bring something to keep you warm (fleece, gloves, sleeping bag...). Depending on the itinerary you choose (Sasa Trail, Sipi Trail, Piswa Trail, or even, for the more discerning sportsmen, the new Bushiyi Trail), you will find on your way, punctuated with magnificent views, caves, gorges and waterfalls. Expeditions are organized at the UWA office in Mbale at the rate of US$ 75 per day, including the entrance to the park (US$ 35) and the services of a guide, plus a camping fee (Ush 20,000) and possibly the assistance of a porter (Ush 40,000 per day; maximum load carried: eighteen kilograms) and a cook (Ush 30,000 per day), or US$ 80-100 per person per day, not including the purchase of food. If you plan to attack the Wagagai by the Bushiyi Trail, which starts in the village of the same name (18 km east of Mbale, as the crow flies...), you will have to pay, for the whole trek (usually two days), 150 US$ (not including camping fees and, potentially, those of the porter and/or the cook). There are many options: the possibility to combine two trails (for example the Sasa and Piswa trails in order to make a Budadiri-Kapkwata crossing and not a round trip on the same trail), to do a cross-border trek (developed by UWA and the Kenya Wildlife Service), to discover the picturesque gorge that is part of the Suam Trail (departure from the locality of Suam), etc.

If the 1,650 m of positive elevation gain on the first day of the Sasa Trail and the 5 to 6 days of walking required to complete the Piswa and Sipi trails do not tell you anything worthwhile, the nature walks organised by UWA could get your favour. For example, from Budadiri, you can walk to the Mudange Cliffs, which gush out of the forest where primates and birds abound, or to Drigana Falls. In Kapkwai, walks of 3 to 11 km allow you to discover bamboos, caves, waterfalls and remarkable trees without (too) tiring!

Julia Loyd, a leading chimpanzee specialist, moved to this region many years ago to devote her life to observing primates. She also founded the first village dedicated to the observation of birds and butterflies. We are here just a few meters from the border of the park. The best local guides are trained here for an exceptional immersive experience. The village offers two rustic cottages nestled 10 m high facing the forest. For the adventurous of course, but thrills are guaranteed for a night on the canopy close to nature.

The beautiful Kidepo Park can be explored on four wheels (motorized) or two feet (well-shod). The inveterate walkers will opt for a guided nature walk . Between the short walk around Apoka, where zebras and antelopes are waiting for you, and the ascent of one of the peaks (like Lonyili) punctuating the perimeter of this wildlife sanctuary, it is the hikes on the trails of Kakine, Rionomoe and Katurum, in the south of the park, that attract visitors (count 15 US$). On these trails, there is a good chance of spotting elephants, giraffes, buffaloes and, if you are lucky, lions. If you appreciate being in direct contact with the bush, you can extend the experience by spending the night (20 000 Ush/person) in one of the two rudimentary camps (sanitary facilities, fireplace...) and guarded by the UWA, in Kakine, whose surroundings are tasted by big cats, and in Nagusokopire, not far from the Savannah Lodge (reservation and payment with the UWA staff in Apoka). Besides birding (US$ 30), game drive is the other main activity in the park. If you have your own vehicle, you can explore the park at your leisure. However, a trip to Apoka can be a good idea as UWA sells maps of the park (30 000 Ush). Moreover, hiring a guide (20 US$) multiplies your chances to flush out the four-footed beasts. On the other hand, the night game drive (from 7pm to 10pm) requires the presence of a mahout (40 US$/person) and the prior registration of your vehicle. The visit to the hot springs of Kanatarok, not far from the South Sudanese border, must also be done in the company of a ranger from the Uganda Wildlife Authority. If you do not have a car, the UWA provides a vehicle for visitors (US$30/person for the day and US$40/person for the night, not including the optional or compulsory hiring of a guide), provided that there are at least three people in the car. If you are staying in Karenga, you will have to reach Apoka by boda-boda or, as a last resort, by using the UWA (count 100 000 Ush per car). The daytime game drives organized by the Ugandan agency take place at the beginning (6am-6.30pm) and at the end of the day (4pm); they usually last between two and two and a half hours. Last but not least, Apoka Safari Lodge guests have the option of two game drives, included in the price of the overnight stay, in a private vehicle driven by a friendly and competent guide.