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A long and painful installation

On foot, on horseback, or on donkeyback, the Himba followed the rhythm of the seasons, without concern for the outside world. The shocks of history, notably their involvement in the war of independence as auxiliaries or trackers with military units, did not upset their tribal structures. For almost thirty years, until the country's independence in March 1990, the Kaokoland region was off-limits because it was a "military zone. Today, the Himba population in this area is estimated at between 20,000 and 40,000, depending on the source. They still live mainly in the traditional way, and livestock raising is still the most common activity. Bartering is still practiced, but money is increasingly taking a privileged place in exchanges.
Finally, the rapid development of international tourism in Namibia with the arrival of numerous foreign tourists is disrupting the relations between the Himba and other local communities, but also their own way of life. New problems such as begging and alcoholism are appearing and a sustained rural exodus is taking place to cities and more touristic places. Severe droughts persist and are still causing damage to livestock. The Himba language is Himba, a Herero dialect.
It is therefore recommended to use a local guide-interpreter to better grasp the richness and complexity of this people who, despite a particularly hostile history and habitat, show exemplary resilience.

Cattle, treasure of the Himba

The Himba village consists of a group of conical huts set around the cattle pen, which is the most important asset. The community lives to the rhythm of the movements necessary to graze the animals near the water sources. A fire is permanently lit in the village, it allows to link the world of the living with that of the dead. The daily life of the Himba is essentially based on cattle breeding, especially cows, for milk, meat, leather or even the excrement used to build the huts. A symbol of wealth, each family must own a certain number of cows for its survival, but also to ensure a respectable social status.

Puberty rituals among himba girls

The Himba, like the Herero, do not observe any collective initiation rites for girls. When a girl begins to menstruate, her initiation into adulthood takes place within the village. During her period, she is considered impure and must leave the village. Upon her return, accompanied by another woman, she is taken to the shelter(otjiranda) next to the main hut where she receives the necessary protection from the spirits during her period of impurity. A festive atmosphere is created by numerous visits from friends and offerings. After a few days, the girl is accompanied before theokuruwo, the sacred fire, where the spirits take note of the change in status of the young woman, now of marriageable age. They are asked to protect the woman until she gives birth to her first child and beyond.
After the initiation rite, the young woman is required to wear her braids on the back of her head instead of forward over her eyes (this headdress being the characteristic sign of prepuberty). The shell worn between the breasts means that the young woman is of childbearing age.
The Himba are a traditionally polygamous society, and sometimes the man is with more than eight women.

Secrets of himba beauty

The beauty rituals of Himba women are immutable and very rigorous. The beautiful mahogany color that covers their bodies comes from a red stone (hematite) reduced to a very fine powder and mixed with cow fat. Women and children coat themselves from head to toe (including their hair) with this red ochre ointment which makes their skin silky and protects them from the sun and insects.
They wear skirts made of goat skin, greased beforehand so as not to harden and perfumed with mopane wood.
Heavy necklaces complete the outfit; when it includes a shell, it is a sign of fecundity, indicating that they are of childbearing age. Hairstyles (for both men and women) also have their importance and significance: they evolve as their lives progress. For example, a single braid on a man will indicate that he is not married, while a young girl will have small thin braids worn on the back of her head.
Teeth are not forgotten, for both women and men, four lower incisors for aesthetic reasons.

Himba villages and crafts

Himba villages can be seen near Opuwo and Epupa in Kunene. Visits should be made with a guide who speaks the local language in order to observe the daily life of this community. Try to learn a few Himba words to make it easier to interact with your hosts and to take some souvenirs. Himba handicrafts are based on leather and skin work (belts, aprons, wallets), jewelry (bracelets, earrings, copper wire), basketry, pottery, and interesting musical instruments and wooden neck rests. Your local guide-interpreter will be able to give you advice on the right price of the products, he will be able to negotiate on your behalf and thus avoid long discussions. Know that your expenses contribute to their survival.

Read: Rouge himba, travel diary in himba territory

Rouge himba takes you to the heart of the Himba culture. Solenn Bardet, the author of this graphic novel, funny, rich and fascinating, knows them well, since, when she was barely an adult, twenty years ago, she went to live with them, even being adopted by a family. In 2015, she convinced the cartoonist Simon Hureau to follow her on her next journey to Namibia. Alongside Solenn, Simon Hureau and the reader discover the beauty and strangeness of this country and its inhabitants. Exotic, instructive, magical.