Botswana - Delta de l\'Okavango (c) thejack.jpg
Lions dans la réserve de Moremi © Brian Divelbiss - Shutterstock.com.jpg
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Guépard dans le désert de Kalahari © Sproetniek - iStockphoto.com.jpg

The Okavango, for incredible safaris

Both in the north and in the south, the Okavango Delta reveals a spectacular nature, one of the most pristine in Africa. Crossed by large herds of mammals and numerous predators, it also harbors exceptional wildlife, which migrates with the seasons and the river's floods. In order to protect this unique ecosystem, this large wilderness area has been divided into private concessions where lodges with a very limited capacity are set up, allowing travelers to live unique and exclusive experiences. However, in addition to the choice of season, the location of the lodge is an important factor to consider when booking, depending on the type of activities one wants to experience. Flooded for much of the year, especially from April onwards, the northern concessions favor water-based activities, such as mokoro rides, where one can observe the birdlife as well as the mammals that drink in the delta's arms. However, some of them, usually located near the islands, are also dedicated to land activities, such as game-drive. In a 4 x 4, and accompanied by experienced guides, you will criss-cross the dry plains of the delta to meet the herbivores and predators. But here again, depending on the location of the lodge, the wildlife observed will not be quite the same. For game-driving, the southern part of the delta is recommended, as it is more irregularly flooded than the north. However, some concessions are filled with water during the rainy season, when water activities are favored. Game-drive enthusiasts will therefore favor concessions in the dry zone as a mammal-watching ground. The eastern part of the delta is divided into private reserves, often managed in partnership with local people, and presents a varied landscape of mopane forests, dry and flooded plains. Some concessions are the corridor of important migration in the dry season, like concessions NG33 and NG34. As for self-drivers, they will have to find out which route to take if they wish to visit the delta, as the private concessions in the north and south do not allow access. Only certain routes in the east can be used by self-drivers

Moremi, the most beautiful reserve in the country

West of the Okavango Delta, the Moremi Game Reserve is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful wilderness sanctuaries in southern Africa, home to a large concentration of predators and herbivores. It is one of the oldest protected areas in the country, initiated in 1963 by the widow of Chief Moremi to combat uncontrolled hunting. Today, the reserve encompasses about 30% of the delta, including Mopane Tong and the large island of Chief's Island. As a public reserve, it is open to mobile safaris and self-drivers. There are two types of accommodation on site: bush camps and lodges. However, Chief's Island is managed as a private concession and has some of the most expensive lodges in the delta! The reason for this is quite simple, as this is where you have the best chance of meeting the big five and all the other wildlife of the delta. For a mobile safari, the South Gate, Xakanaxa, Khwai and North Gate areas are also rich in wildlife. This option, offering an unforgettable immersion in the wilderness, is offered by tour operators who set up comfortable camps on reserved sites as the tour progresses. Self-drivers, who are familiar with bush camping, must book their campsites at the Department of Wildlife and National Parks booking offices in Maun or Gaborone. It is also advisable to book well in advance, especially during peak periods, as space is limited and in high demand. Travelling in the reserve will require complete self-sufficiency as there are no food, drink or fuel outlets. Travellers should take a supply of mineral water as water is only available in camps with sanitary facilities. Like the parks, the reserve is subject to many rules that must be respected. In addition to the entrance fee per day, per person and per vehicle to be paid, the circulation within the reserve is allowed only during the day, at well-defined times depending on the season. Speed is also limited to 40 km/h on the sandy tracks and off-roading is prohibited

Chobe, the elephant sanctuary

Crossed by the eponymous river, this region of north-eastern Botswana is, along with Moremi, one of the country's top safari destinations. In addition to the lush landscapes it offers, it concentrates a rich and varied wildlife that comes to drink, even in the dry season. It is also known to be home to the largest population of elephants in Africa! The park, which is easily reached from Kasane, is divided into four sections, each offering a different bush experience. Along with the River Front, the Savute is the most popular section for travellers, and is renowned for its many predators and large concentrations of bull elephants. In the rainy season, the great migrations of zebra and wildebeest, which move by the thousands towards the Makgadikgadi pans, offer breathtaking spectacles to game-drivers lucky enough to come across them. In addition to the luxury lodges, this section has many dedicated campsites for tour operators but only one public campsite, which is popular in the high season. The River Front area offers splendid game drives along the river or in the riverine forests. There are many elephants, lions, hyenas and a large number of antelopes such as cob and black hippo. Self-drivers will find a public campsite at Ihaha, located to the west of this section, and many sites reserved for tour operators. In the north-west of the national park, the Linyanti section has several luxury lodges and a small campsite for self-drivers. Organized game drives provide a wealth of wildlife viewing. From June to December, the section is spectacularly animated by the great migrations of zebras, buffaloes and elephants. Finally, the Nogatsaa section, located in the centre of the park, is the least known to visitors, being the least accessible and least developed. However, it offers an isolated experience from the game-drive, in the heart of unique landscapes and wildlife just as present as in the other sections

The Kalahari, game-drive in arid land

The Kalahari semi-desert, which covers a large part of Botswana, offers a totally different safari experience to Moremi and Chobe, but one that complements any trip to Botswana. In the heart of this unique region of vast, arid plains, wildlife is surprisingly abundant, despite the lack of surface water. The wildlife has adapted to this arid environment and differs from that of the delta. Elephants and buffaloes, which are found near waterholes, are totally absent. Here we are in the playground of oryx and springbok. The most patient will perhaps have the chance to observe leopards, cheetahs and lions. The latter, more massive than those of the Okavango, are the pride of the Kalahari, with their ochre fur and their beautiful black mane! More easily accessible, Ghanzi and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve are ideal game viewing areas. Around Ghanzi, several settlements are located on farms, formerly used for livestock, which have been converted into private reserves with luxurious lodges for tourist game-drives. In the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, only campsites with shower and toilet facilities are available. As in Chobe and Moremi, you should consider booking these in advance. For more comfort, private concessions offer quality accommodation on the edge of the park. Less well known to tourists, Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park offers a similar experience to the Kalahari Game Reserve. However, there are no tracks and only a few campsites offer rustic accommodation. It is better to discover it on the South African side

Self-drive, for total freedom

Alone or in a group, the self-drive trip is an interesting alternative for the adventurous who wish to be independent and fully enjoy the African wildlife. In total autonomy, they travel at their leisure along the bush tracks in a 4WD, prepare their meals, shower in the open air and sleep in the heart of the wilderness. Even if this way of travelling can make many of us dream, it nevertheless requires a lot of preparation beforehand as well as a good mastery of driving on sandy tracks in a 4 x 4. From equipment to food, water and fuel, it is necessary to plan the trip as much as possible because once on the road, you will be in the middle of a virgin nature where nobody will be able to help you. Experienced self-drivers prefer to travel in a convoy, so that they can help one of the vehicles in case of trouble. More and more tour operators are offering to assist travellers in their preparation and in case of problems, which gives adventurers peace of mind. They can also take care of reservations at reserves and camps, saving time for self-drivers. Independent travellers sometimes opt for a combination of self-drive, public camp and private reserve lodges. This allows the self-drive adventure to be experienced independently, while at the same time enjoying the comforts of a wilderness lodge and its quality safaris, supervised by professionals. For experienced travellers who choose to go on a self-drive tour, we recommend reading Veronica Roodt's The Shell Tourist Travel and Field Guide of Botswana in addition to this edition. Although this guide is very rich in information for independent travellers, it will probably not be sufficient. It is therefore highly recommended that you prepare your trip by visiting the national parks office in Gaborone or Maun for more detailed information. This will also be the opportunity to book the campsites, if you do not use a tour operator.