From the airport to the city centre Cuba
José Martí International Airport is the international airport of Havana in Cuba and it is the one through which you will transit to enter the Cuban territory. If before the pandemic it was possible to land in Santiago de Cuba, it was no longer possible in 2022: no international flight served the capital of the Oriente. Regarding internal flights, if a few are provided between the two largest cities of the country (Havana and Santiago de Cuba), they are expensive and not very recommended, especially since the crash in May 2018 of the Boeing 737 (flight Cubana 972) of the national airline Cubana de Aviación, which killed 113 people.
From the airport, there are several means of transportation to the city center:
By bus. Two routes lead from the airport to the city center: from Avenida de Boyeros (Avenida de la Independencia) to the university; from Avenida de Boyeros to Ciudad Deportiva, then Calle 26 and Calle 23. A bus line, mainly used by Cubans, provides the connection. You pay in national currency, 40 centavos of national pesos , and the trip is not direct. Take the connecting bus between Terminal 3 and Terminal 1 (domestic flights). At Terminal 1, ask for the omnibus that leads to the Plaza de la Revolución. The trip takes about 1.5 hours.
By cab , you will have access to public cabs, yellow cars with the inscription Cubataxi. You can expect to pay €25 to get to the Vedado neighborhood or the historic center, Habana Vieja. You can also take private cabs, now legal since Raúl Castro's 2011 laws. However, ask to see the driver's transport license (a sticker whose color changes every year is stuck on the windshield of the vehicle, check that it is there to avoid illegal drivers) and negotiate, you can get down to 20 € per trip (this is the minimum price and all private drivers are aligned on it), while with Cubataxi cabs you will have no choice, because it is a rate imposed by the company that belongs to the state.
By rental car: go directly to the counters of the different agencies represented at the airport. It is recommended to make reservations before departure.
Good to know for the return flight: since May1, 2015, you no longer have to pay the €25 tax at the airport before your return flight. This tax is now included in the price of the plane ticket.
In addition, you should know that in the boarding lounge you can connect to the Internet via wifi with an ETECSA card or on one of the computers connected on site. If you do not have an ETECSA card with you, you can buy one in the small store on site.
Arrival by train Cuba
It's a real revolution in Cuba: modern trains were finally introduced in the summer of 2019! The old trains dated back to the 1830s and they were really a nightmare for travelers: unsanitary cars, legendary slowness and frequent breakdowns. But Cuba recently bought nearly 250 trains from China and by 2022 had already received a third of them. If the first of these trains made the connection Havana-Santiago de Cuba in July 2019 in 18 hours of time and at a good price (the goal is indeed to allow a maximum of citizens to travel from one city to another without taking the bus, too expensive), the devaluation of the currency combined with the global pandemic have put a damper on Cuban railway dreams. If at the time of our visit, passenger trains were running, several testimonies we met suggest that traveling by train is not necessarily a good idea. The trains are slow, not very punctual and the rails are very old.
However, the railway system should improve in the coming years. Cuba has signed with Russia a large renovation program (one billion dollars) of its railroads in order to allow trains to run at maximum speed, which is not possible today because of the dilapidated state of the rails and of the whole railway system. However, it will be some time before faster trains can be used in Cuba
Arrival by boat Cuba
If the Havana marina was being renovated in order to welcome cruise ships in the near future, not a single pleasure boat was in sight when we visited. On the other hand, you can go to the Terminal de ferris (Avenida del Puerto, Habana Vieja Sur) to board a ferry that will take you to the other side of Havana Bay
Public transport Cuba
The company Víazul (www.viazul.com) serves the largest cities on the island: Viñales, Pinar del Rio, Havana, Matanzas, Varadero, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Las Tunas, Ciego de Avila, Camagüey, Bayamo, Holguín, Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa. The buses are air-conditioned, so don't forget to wear a sweater, because it can be very cold, especially if you take a night bus
For this edition, in order to avoid any misunderstanding or confusion, we have decided not to mention either schedules or fares. While the network was totally stopped in December 2021, buses were running at one third of their pre-pandemic frequency at the end of January 2022, and at half of this same frequency at the end of February 2022. Some routes (e.g., Havana-Varadero) ran every day, others (e.g., Havana-Trinidad) ran only two to three times a week. The best way to avoid unpleasant surprises is to go to the Viazul office of the city where you are to buy your tickets. Don't forget your passport and your credit card (preferably Visa), the only means of payment accepted during our visit. In order to avoid a trip to the Viazul office for nothing, you can consult the company's website: viazul.wetransp.com. If it is impossible to buy your ticket online, the bus schedules are well up to date! We recommend you to go to the Viazul office of the city where you are to buy your ticket at the latest the day before your departure (the same day will be enough in low season)!
On the day of the trip, you should go to the Viazul bus station one hour (sometimes 1.5 hours) before departure. They will tell you when the bus will arrive and give you your ticket and luggage ticket at the same time
The other national company, Astro, which you will probably see, is reserved for Cubans and offers much cheaper prices than Viazul. The comfort is slightly lower than Viazul's and you will not normally have access to it... But for a tip at the counter, it is sometimes possible to find an arrangement! It depends on the person you meet. An Astro bus ride is a good way to save money, including a tip.
Bike, scooters & co Cuba
In popular language, the bicycle is called el chivo (the goat). Since the período especial, the bicycle has become widely used. It is possible to rent one from Cubans for a day, a week or a month. Bicycles are very precious on the island, so you will need to use an anti-theft device and park your bike in a supervised bike park, especially in the big cities (count 1 to 2 €). An anti-theft device alone is not enough, as professional thieves travel with all the necessary equipment to steal two-wheelers
With a driver Cuba
Official cab
. Companies such as Cubataxi cover long distances between cities. They are located near bus terminals and major hotels. Interesting prices from 3 or 4 people. Vehicles equipped with meters, always preferable to avoid possible scams, however rare. But, meter or not, even with an official cab, it is always possible to arrange prices. Therefore, it is essential to negotiate with the driver before getting into the vehicle. Good to know, official cabs have blue license plates.Private cab. With the massive development of self-employment following Raúl Castro's reforms in 2011 to revive the Cuban economy, it is now possible for any citizen with a driver's license and a vehicle to become a private driver, i.e. a self-employed cab driver! He must pass a specific (but relatively easy) exam and then he is issued a license. He is then required to stick a special sticker on his windshield, which changes color every year, not to be confused with the red sticker (with big numbers) that is linked to the registration certificate. The vehicle of a legal driver must have 2 badges; if there is only one badge, do not go with this driver because in case of police control, the vehicle will be immobilized and you will be forced to continue your journey by your own means (non-negotiable)...
The advantage of private cabs is that they are often much cheaper than official cabs and you can negotiate the fare beforehand. It is also an opportunity to ride in old cars which can be superb, like some American models, but also more dilapidated like many Russian vehicles less glamorous (and sometimes less reassuring too).
Illegal cab
. No license, no meter... The police have the right to stop and punish them. In case of control, you will be systematically obliged to get off the vehicle, the car being automatically immobilized. So it is at your own risk! If you still want to use an illegal cab, negotiate the price of the journey before getting in, otherwise you will be charged the full price.Bici-taxi. With the terrible economic crisis of the 1990s and the shortage of fuel, Cubans have brought out the bicycles again... Authorized by the State, these two-seater bicycle-taxis - cousins of the Indian rickshaw
- crisscross the streets of Havana and the country. Count between 1 and 5 € according to the race and the distance covered.Coco-taxi. Resolutely original, these motorized tricycles circulating in the capital are equipped with a yellow rounded hull whose shape reminds a coconut. Two seats in the back and the driver who works like a devil in front. Count 5 to 7 € to connect the end of Habana Vieja to Vedado, in Havana. But here again, you will have to negotiate because the cab drivers, who have a rather playful vehicle that they like a lot, like to inflate the prices when they see a tourist because the demand is high and they think that you will only see fire. But you have been warned...
By car Cuba
Be very careful on the road and drive with great caution. The roads in Cuba are in good condition (although some roads have cracks), but the problem is often pedestrians who cross at any time and any place. You have to honk your horn to let them know that you are coming and that they should not cross. This is the local custom. Be aware that if you hurt a Cuban in a car accident, whether you are at fault or not, you will be sent to jail. We did not manage to find out the exact duration of this stay but according to our investigation, it can be very long... We were simply told, to reassure us, that the tourists were in decent prisons. To avoid the experience of Cuban prisons, drive very carefully and do not drink mojitos before driving!
Highway Code. Cuban traffic laws require you to stop at every crosswalk, even if no one is crossing. Stop signs in Cuba are represented by a triangle with the top down. It is white, with a red line, and is crossed out with the word "PARE" (stop). Every police checkpoint on the side of the road requires that you pass it at less than 40 km/h. Beyond that speed you will be stopped, even if there is no sign and even if it is a four-lane road. If you are fined, be aware that you do not have to pay the fine to the police officer who stopped you, but to the rental car company.
Driving at night. Avoid driving at night, because of the holes in the road, the lack of signs, Cubans who drive with their headlights on all the time, pedestrians or cyclists who are impossible to see in the dark, and children playing on the side of the road.
Rental. You will need your passport, national driver's license and credit card. Most rental agencies have offices in the major hotels in the city. However, booking before you leave on the internet can significantly lower the rates. You should also consider having your vehicle watched over overnight by locals for a fee of 1 or 2 €. Finally, remember to make sure that you have a spare tire in the trunk and a jack because a flat tire on the roads of Cuba is a classic; in these cases, you will have to show off your mechanical skills, but if you really don't know how to do it, don't worry, there will always be a good soul to help you.
As far as infrastructure is concerned, road signs are extremely bad. Take a good map with you, but it will often be insufficient when you leave the main roads. The best way to find your way around is to download a GPS map of Cuba that you will have previously integrated into your GPS device (paid maps that can be purchased online). You can also use the Cubamappa.com website, from which you can download free detailed road maps of the whole country (you just have to put them on your iPad or smartphone) or the Maps.me application, which can be used as a GPS on your smartphone, even offline, provided you have downloaded the maps of Cuba online beforehand. Don't forget that internet is not available on the road in Cuba and that you won't be able to use your smartphone in GPS mode as usual... So be prepared and download the maps before you hit the road.
Don't hesitate to ask locals to find your way. The good thing is that there are major roads in Cuba; a central highway links Pinar del Río, Havana and Santiago de Cuba, that is to say almost the whole island from west to east.
Hitchhikers. You will see many hitchhikers on the side of the road during your car trips and you will be solicited like everyone else. You can pick up Cubans without fear of physical assault, but don't leave valuables in plain sight, much less money, as we have had reports of theft. However, it is a good way to help out and to get to know people. Above all, it is the best way to find your way on roads where signs are missing, if you don't have a GPS...
Tourist traps Cuba
Beware of scams on the road! Roadside checks are quite rare. However, some touts have a trick: they take an outfit with "Seguridad" written on it and make big signs for you to stop. Don't fall for it, their only goal is to take you to a site to visit where they will get a juicy commission for your visit... Then continue your way without stopping. The real policemen are easily recognizable because it is written "Policía" on their vehicle, they have a real police uniform and especially they carry a weapon... So be observant to avoid scams!
Another very popular technique from Havana airport: hitchhikers posted on the airport road ask you to drop them off only a few kilometers from the place where they are, and during the trip - the two companions being installed on the back seats - while one of them talks to you, the other takes advantage of it to steal in your luggage while you are driving. A classic! Once they have stolen your luggage discreetly, they ask you to drop it off and by the time you realize it has been stolen, it is gone
A couple of tourists told us about a misadventure on the spot: hitchhikers discreetly punctured a tire when they were getting into their car. The couple only noticed it 5 minutes later... The goal of the hitchhikers was to take them to a friend's garage to have repairs done and get a commission. Result: the tourists unloaded the hitchhikers and they had to change the tire, all alone, to put a spare tire
