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Between regs, ergs and oases

Rocky deserts or sand dunes in the north of Mauritania: in the Adrar, the mineral dominates and the vegetation is very limited. The dromedaries manage to feed on a few bushes and acacias, which resist the aridity of the Sahara. And then, at the bend of a dune or a rocky massif, an oasis is revealed, a haven of greenery in the middle of the desert: date palms abound, offering a little shade, and the possibility under its foliage to cultivate some plants. The ecological village of Maaden is an example, supported by the Pierre Rabhi Endowment Fund. Further south, the vegetation is becoming denser: gum trees, whose gum arabic has long been an important source of income for the country, baobabs, whose fruit, leaves and seeds are consumed... Until we reach the banks of the Senegal River, where mango trees, lemon trees, papaya trees and other fruit trees compete with a flowery jungle.

National Park of the Banc d'Arguin

Along the Mauritanian coastline, between Nouadhibou and Nouakchott, lies the Arguin Bank, a national park listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If it is known to have been the place of shipwreck of the famous French frigate La Méduse, this ecosystem shelters a remarkable diversity of birds, several species of turtles and mammals, as well as schools of fish. Between sand dunes, islets, shallow waters and swamps, the Arguin Bank represents a total of 12,000 km². Exceptionally contrasted, it is the most important habitat of the Western Atlantic for West African breeding birds and migratory waders of the Palearctic zone. The maritime part is also the place of an important biological activity: the waters are full of fish, and welcome dolphins and other marine mammals.

Under the ocean

The Mauritanian coasts are alternately approached by a cold current coming from the Canary Islands and a warm current coming from the Gulf of Guinea, which explains the incredible diversity of the marine fauna. This is not the only reason: the coastline, subject to the north-east trade winds, experiences significant upwelling of cold water from the bottom to the surface, a phenomenon called upwelling. These waters, rich in nutrients, are at the origin of an intense phytoplanktonic activity, and thus of the development of the whole food chain, from zooplankton to fish, marine mammals and sea birds. If you like fishing, you will be able to bring back in your basket mullets, rays, sea breams, groupers, barracudas, sea bass, tuna, mackerels, octopuses and lobsters! But beware, the country is already suffering from the plundering of the Russian, Chinese, Turkish and other industries, leaving the ocean devoid of many species. North of Nouadhibou, Cape Blanc is home to an endangered species, the monk seal, which you may have the opportunity to observe if you are patient! They are now reduced to about 500 representatives on the planet, the only colony of Cape Blanc being estimated at about 200 individuals. This coast is made of high cliffs with caves inaccessible to humans and is therefore an ideal territory for females who give birth to a single pup every two years. The monk seal, which reaches a weight of 300 kg for a length of 3 meters when adult, has no difficulty in feeding in such generous waters.

Diawling National Park

Located in the lower delta of the Senegal River, the Diawling National Park was created in 1991: as the natural areas of the river were degraded by the construction of dams, an area of 16,000 ha became a protected site and the home of many plant and animal species: migratory birds, egrets, cormorants, pelicans, and herons stay there, attracted by the presence of fish, especially during the winter. For the past ten years, the park managers have been recreating the seasonal flooding, with the help of dykes and structures, the main source of the park's wealth. But water is becoming increasingly scarce, as well as the crocodiles that once made their home there. What remains are warthogs, cattle and a few goats, which keep company with the camels, and feast on the flora of the mangrove.

Ode to the King of the Desert

If there is an emblem of the Sahara, it is the dromedary, king of the desert! It is estimated that there are 2 millions of them in Mauritania, that is to say one dromedary for every two inhabitants! It is used for its meat, its milk, its skin, and for its incredible cooperation to transport luggage and people, especially in the Adrar region. The lack of water does not scare him, the dromedary can travel hundreds of kilometers without drinking. Shy, the dromedary does not like to be touched. It is incredible to see them coming from nowhere, in the middle of the desert, or on the tar road between Nouakchott and Nouadhibou, perfectly free and solitary.

A threatened biodiversity

Mauritania's two national parks have an essential role: they allow the survival of animal and plant species in an emerging country with insufficient means to work for the protection of the environment. The tar road linking Nouadhibou to Nouakchott bypasses the Banc d'Arguin National Park, which was not the case before, and endangered the fauna and flora. A major problem is the presence of plastic bags, everywhere, on the ground, even in the desert ... However, we know that this material takes several decades to be recycled, without its ban being a priority. Until recently, one could observe a boat cemetery south of Nouadhibou! They were lying there, donated by some rich countries: a fleet of ships delivered, no crew trained to drive them... Result: 150 boats that had never taken to the water were inexorably rusting near the coastline... They are no longer part of the landscape, fortunately. On the maritime side, the overexploitation of Mauritanian waters by foreign factories is not a matter of debate, just look at the local fishermen returning empty-handed from their daily artisanal quest. It would be good to ensure the sustainability of fishing and better management of fisheries resources...