Archaeological sites Turkey

You can go there early in the morning, before the arrival of the tourist buses and the sun, or in the afternoon, when the setting sun decorates the white rocks with multicolored reflections. Be careful, remove your shoes before walking on the wet surface. Note that it is also forbidden to bathe in the basins, as well as to wet your feet in the canals. The remains are scattered, so plan on 3 hours if you want to see everything.

Thermal baths. Open every day from 9am to 12:30pm and from 1:30pm to 6pm. Entrance fee. The impressive complex of the thermal baths proves the importance that the Romans gave to the ritual of hygiene which concerned as much the ordinary citizen as the athletes. Originally, the large vaulted rooms were covered with marble. Today they house an archaeological museum with some interesting statues.

Street with porticoes. This street, approximately 13 m wide, crossed the city with, at each end, a monumental door. The part lined with columns is located in the old commercial district of Hierapolis. It leads to the Domitian Gate, built in 82 AD, in honor of the emperor.

Theater. This well-preserved Roman theater, which could seat 25,000 spectators, is the venue for the Pamukkale Festival of Art every summer. The stage is decorated with beautiful bas-reliefs representing Artemis, Apollo and Dionysus.

Plutonium. After passing the ruins of a temple of Apollo of the ^IInd century, as well as the nymphaeum, a monumental fountain, we arrive at Plutonium. This famous cave dedicated to Pluto, the ruler of the dead, gives off a toxic gas capable of killing the common man, but not the eunuch priests. It is strongly advised not to try the experience.

Martyrion of Saint-Philippe. Octagonal building built to commemorate the martyrdom of the apostle Philip (80 AD). It is not certain that it houses the tomb of the saint. However, it was here that the great processions took place on the anniversary of his death.

Necropolis. Certainly the most interesting part of the visit, at least for those who will not be disturbed by the impressive number of tombs suggesting apocalyptic pictures. Many of the sick who came here in the hope of being cured by the miraculous thermal waters never saw their homeland again. At least their relatives had the consolation of thinking that buried in this place, communicating directly through its gaseous crevices with the afterlife, they would not have too painful a journey..

The archaeological site has two entrances, a main one, near the Tusan Motel (parking fee) and another one at the other end, towards the house of the Virgin. In front of the main entrance, you will find souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants with prohibitive prices.

History. Ephesus is one of the most important Ionian cities in Asia Minor. According to the legend, during the prehistoric period, it was inhabited by the Amazons who introduced the cult of Artemis. The Carians and Pelasgians are considered the first inhabitants of the city. The tradition wants that towards the ^XVIIth century before J.-C., Androclès, son of Kodros king of Athens, had disembarked there with Ionian colonists and that after having overcome the Carians, it was installed in Ephesus. The city, democratic city around 800 BC, knows a tyrannical regime two centuries and half later, around 650. One of the tyrants, Pythagoras, was so cruel that he refused access to the sanctuary of Artemis to all those who came to ask for asylum, condemning them to commit suicide or to die of hunger. Later, the city is conquered by Croesus, king of Lydia. The latter was defeated by the Persians who occupied Ephesus until 470 BC. At this date, the liberation of the Ionian cities allows the development of democratic institutions. During the wars opposing Athens to Sparta, Ephesus takes side sometimes for the first one and sometimes for the second. Alexander the Great visited the city and offered a sacrifice to Artemis. After his death, the city was conquered by Antigone, then by Lysimachus who moved the inhabitants near a new port and built several important public buildings. He called this new city Arsinoia, after the name of his wife Arsinoe. But in 284 BC, after the death of his successor Agathocles, the people of Ephesus rose up and gave back its original name to the city where they demolished several monuments erected by Lysimachus. From then on, the city was coveted by the Seleucids and the Ptolemies of Egypt. However, Ephesus will know a golden age under the Roman domination and will be named capital of the province of Asia. In the ^2nd century B.C., with a population of 225,000, it was considered the most populous city in the East after Alexandria. In 29 AD, an earthquake destroyed many of its monuments and houses. During the Christian era, Ephesus regained a prominent role with the arrival of the apostle Paul who founded a Christian community there. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary spent the last years of her life here. The decadence of Ephesus began in the ^3rd century, when the Goths invaded Asia Minor. Later, other conquerors, the Mongols and the Tatars will destroy it several times. The Byzantines will give him the Christian name of Aghios Theologos (holy Theologian), undoubtedly at the origin of the name of the current Turkish village, Ayasoluk. The excavations of the site begin in 1864, they are then directed by the English archaeologist Wood.

The impressive remains that you can see today date from the Roman and chrono-Hellenistic periods. Visit the site taking care not to miss the Arcadian Way, the library of Celsius, the street of the Curetes with the latrines and the temple of Hadrian and the terraced houses.

Gymnasium of Vedius. On the left, before reaching the entrance of the site, the gymnasium of Vedius, built in the ^2nd century AD by a rich citizen. Here, the ruins of the baths. The stadium, close to the baths, was built by Nero.

Church of the Councils. Follow the sign "Meryem Ana Kilisesi" which leads to a Roman covered market, transformed in the ^4th century into a basilica dedicated to the Virgin. Its historical importance is due to the two councils that were held here. The first, in 431, led to the condemnation of Nestorianism, a heresy that affirmed the dual nature of Christ, human and divine. The second, in 449, concluded that Christ had only one divine nature, a theory that is at the origin of the monophysism professed today by the Jacobite Church of Syria, the Armenian Church and the Coptic Church of Egypt. Among the ruins, the baptistery is surprisingly well preserved.

Arcadian Way. At the entrance to the site, a majestic road lined with pine trees, which was restored in the^5th century by the Byzantine emperor Acadius. Connecting the theater to the sea, which today has retreated 10 km, it was lined with columns of Corinthian rhythm that delimited deep galleries. Those, with the ground covered with mosaics, sheltered stores. The night, they were illuminated by torches. To the north of the Arcadian way, you can see the ruins of the gymnasium and the baths.

Theater. At the foot of Mount Pion is the great theater of the city. It could hold 24,000 spectators. It is perhaps here that Saint Paul addressed the people of Ephesus. The theater hosted, in summer, events of the festival of Ephesus (concerts, shows) it is no longer the case today because it is weakened.

Street of marble. This street, which starts from the theater, has large well-preserved marble slabs, dating from the^5th century A.D. Notice the footprint and the female head clearly visible on the marble, which were said to indicate the direction of a brothel.

Lower Agora. After the triumphal arch. It consisted of a large square, lined with galleries which sheltered rooms, warehouses and stores. A large hydraulic or solar clock occupied the center of the agora. The whole place was decorated with magnificent statues. To the south of the agora, stood an imposing temple dedicated to the cult of Serapis.

Library of Celsius. This spectacular building was built by the son of the senator Celsius, Aquila, completed in 130 AD and restored by the archaeological school of Vienna. The statues adorning the two-story façade (the four intellectual virtues) are copies of the marble originals that you can admire in Vienna. Outside the library was a large lecture hall; the Byzantines added a fountain adjacent to the façade. On the east side, there was an octagonal building whose roof formed a pyramid decorated with a huge marble ball. The manuscripts were preserved from humidity thanks to a clever system of double walls with a corridor allowing air circulation. The Goths destroyed the library's treasures when they invaded Ephesus in 262 A.D., but they did not desecrate the tomb of its founder, which was located under the west wing of the building.

Rue des Curètes. The second main street of the site, named after a category of priests of Artemis, leads to the very well preserved latrines. Behind, the ruins of the baths of Scholastica of the ^first century, restored. Right next to the latrines stands the elegant Corinthian temple, built in honor of Hadrian in 118 AD who visited Ephesus several times. The four columns of the facade carry a pediment with the bust of Tyke, the goddess of the city, in the center. On the tympanum above the door, a bust of a young girl representing Medusa. The bas-reliefs that adorn it were added later (originals in the Selçuk Museum). Opposite the temple of Hadrian, turn left for the terraced houses of the rich inhabitants of Ephesus. The walls of the rooms around the patios are decorated with mosaics. These houses were provided with running water, even in the floors. Returning to the street of Curetes, admire the fountain of Trajan (^2nd century) and decorated with imposing statues. The most important ones are in the Selçuk Museum. Further up, the Gate of Hercules (early^5th century) divides the street which, on one side, leads to the temple of Domitian and the Museum of Inscriptions and on the other, to the upper agora.

In front of the agora stood the prytaneum where the sacred flame of the city burned continuously and where the prytanes of Ephesus met. The odeon could accomodate 1 400 senators. After the baths of Varius, we arrive at the second exit of the site. Further on, on the left, the gate of Magnesia indicates us what were the real limits of the ancient city.

The ramparts, which surrounded the centre of the city, were 3.5 km long. The path, opposite the museum, leads to the theatre (1st century BC) built by Julus Zoilos, a freed slave of Emperor Octavian. The north wall, 5 m high, bears Greek inscriptions from the 2nd and 3rd centuries.

Behind the theatre is the Tetrastoon, a large square bounded by four (tetra) porticoes (stoai) and connected to the Imperial Hall of the Baths. Next to it is a cloakroom, a bathroom and a sweat room. Then, on the right, the Sebastêion, sanctuary of the deified emperor Augustus, supposed to be a descendant of Aphrodite.

Composed of two parallel rows of half-columns superimposed on three floors, it was decorated with decorative panels depicting mythological scenes. A series of bas-reliefs show the peoples conquered by Augustus. To the left of the Sebasteion, some columns among the poplars indicate the location of the agora, which consisted of two Ionic porticoes. The southern portico, Tiberius' portico, was decorated with impressive friezes, with heads of historical and mythological figures linked by garlands. To the west of the Tiberius portico, the ruins of Hadrian's baths stand. Continuing, on the right, a peristyle indicates the Episcopal palace, residence of a notable, converted into the residence of the bishop of Aphrodisias.

Overall plan. Near the temple of Aphrodite, a path leads to the well-preserved stadium, which could hold 30,000 people. 262 m long and 59 m wide, it was used for athletic games. To the north of the temple are the remains of six private houses. One of them housed a school of philosophy. Aphrodisias was home to a large Jewish community. A series of inscriptions indicate the existence of a synagogue, and an engraved pillar bears the names and professions of a number of Jews.

Next to it is a well-preserved odeon. Originally, it was used for artistic events and meetings of the city council. The mosaic that covered the floor of the orchestra is in the museum.

Next door, the most important monument of the city, the temple of Aphrodite, is easily identified by its fourteen columns, but its structure was largely modified when the Byzantines transformed it into a basilica.

To the east of the temple stands the tetrapylon, a decorative door consisting of four rows of four columns topped by richly decorated pediments. Magnificent!

The road that separates the entrance from the beach (1 km away) crosses the remains. You can see a triple Roman arcade, dedicated to Mettius Modestus, governor of Lycia in the 1st century BC. The complex of the baths and the basilica are very badly preserved. The theater is well preserved but it is partly silted up. From the hill against which it is leaning, you have a superb view on the area and on the beach. Small temple of the IInd century, thermal baths of Vespasian.

The ascent is rough to reach the site (10-15 minutes of ascent) with large stone steps. Priene is a city built according to the checkerboard plan of Hippodamus of Miletus. The terraced layout of the ruins allows for a panoramic view of the area and the curves of the Meander River. From the main entrance, you have to climb several steps to reach the bouleutêrion, seat of the Senate, very well preserved. The marble base that you can see in the center was an altar used for ritual sacrifices. Going down, you discover the real center of the city. The fragments of some Doric or Ionian columns prove the location of the stoa. Next to it, the temple of Zeus and the agora are located. It is still necessary to go up to see the ruins, in very bad state, of the gymnasium, the stadium and the baths.

It is better to go to the residential area, below the agora, which allows you to see the structure of the houses in the 4th century BC, with the rooms distributed around an inner court. A little higher up, five columns testify to the location of the magnificent temple of Athena Pallas created by the famous architect Pytheus. Going down towards the exit, you can see the theater, in good condition, with the places of honor clearly visible. Behind it are the ruins of a Byzantine basilica. Only the very motivated will climb the path that leads to the site of the ancient acropolis, they will be rewarded by the beauty of the landscape.

Most travelers limit their visit to the theater, the major attraction of the site. The Roman construction visible today, built on the site of a 4th century Greek theater, could hold 20,000 spectators. The magnificent galleries of circulation, very well preserved, gave access to the terraces. From the top of the hill of the theater, you can realize the geographical situation of the ancient city of which you distinguish the vestiges. Miletus extended then on a peninsula which formed two ports: that of the Theater and that of the Lions. The Byzantine castle whose ruins you see is built with stones of the theater. If you take the path to the right of the theater, you will come to the baths of Faustina, wife of Marcus Aurelius (150 AD). Next to a pool of cold water stands a decapitated statue of the river Meander. A few meters further on, you can see the mosque of Ilyas Bey which dates from the beginning of the 15th century. The earthquake of 1958 deprived it of its minaret, but its mihrâb is beautifully carved and the interior squatted by storks. Passing the southern agora, you arrive at the bouleutêrion, the Senate which, as an inscription proves, was built in the 2nd century B.C. by Tinarchos and Heracleidos in honor of the Syrian king Antiochos IV. Opposite, was the nymphaeum, a sanctuary dedicated to the nymphs, dating from the 1st century AD. On the right, stood the temple of Aesculapius on which, in the^5th century, was built a Byzantine church now in ruins. A little further on was the most important monument of the city, the delphinion, sanctuary of Apollo, protector of the harbors and the ships, after the agora of the north, above the port of the Lions (so named because of the two marble fawns which guarded its entry).

Outside the summer period, the site beyond the theater is often difficult to explore because the rain turns the land into swamp. But when the waters recede, the spectacle is surreal. Not to be missed.

The museum is located1 km from the main entrance of the site.

Idea for a lunch break in Karin: an excellent fish lunch in a soothing setting, much more pleasant than on the side of the road, or at the foot of a site overcrowded with people. Between Milet and Priene, follow the direction of Priene, then take a left towards Doğanbey and go to the very end of the road.

Researchers have unearthed 9 successive layers representing the different periods of Troy's history, from the Bronze Age to the Roman period. At the entrance, a kitsch reconstruction of the famous wooden horse, as well as the house where Schliemann stayed during his research. A signposted route makes the visit easier. You can also distinguish the walls built at different periods, a birch tree from the 9th century BC and a Roman temple dedicated to Athena.

85 m deep, one can see the rooms of an entire city recreated underground in order to entrench oneself in case of threats: barn, canteen, food and drink stores, wells, churches, ventilation tunnel... It is the deepest and the largest known underground city. It could accommodate 10,000 people. The rooms are wide and the corridors easy to access. The most astonishing thing is to learn that the visible part would constitute only one tenth of its real size.

The village of Kaymaklı dates back to ancient times, when houses were built above and around the underground city, which provided a permanent link. Consisting of 10 levels, we discover in particular the following rooms: food depository, kitchens, barn, church, ventilation tunnel... Its visit is more difficult than Derinkuyu which has larger rooms but it provides stronger sensations when we cross the narrow galleries.

Less touristy and smaller than the other underground cities, Özkonak was discovered by chance in 1972 by the owner of the land who is also the imam of the village. Two levels are currently visible and open to the public. There are some differences with the most visited underground cities, such as the strange "telephone system" or the more spacious rooms. Nestled on the slopes of the Idiş Mountain, the charming village of Özkonak is worth a visit.

The underground city of Özlüce has a slightly different architecture from the other discovered cities as it tends to spread out more evenly in depth, as evidenced by the lack of successive layers. This visit can be a very good idea if the queues in the other underground cities are too long or perhaps it is its tranquility that will seduce you. For a bakshish, the guard will give you a tour. Negotiate the price!

The underground city of Mazikoy, which in reality is only partially underground, is located on the western side of the valley. Six levels have been dug. This underground refuge resembles a bit the anthill of Özlüce. So far, four entrances have been uncovered. Its greatest particularity comes from the more numerous spaces reserved for the animals. The visit will not be crowded because it is the guard who accompanies you. Be sure to negotiate the price in advance.

The entrance to the site is near the springs.

Theandrôn A (4th century), place where important men met. Next to it, perhaps the dwellings of the priests. Very impressive, the mausoleum certainly sheltered the remains of a powerful family.

Andrôn B (4th century), built by Mausole, has two rooms. The monumental staircase leads to the propylaea around the Roman baths and the Byzantine church. The nearby lake and the sacred fish allowed the oracle to answer visitors.

Theandrôn C, located near theandrôn B, dates from the Byzantine era.

City of Artemis and Apollo, it was founded by settlers from the city of Miletus. With time, the island joined the land to become a peninsula. Not much remains of it. Firstly because of the successive wars from the 2nd century. Then, because the Turks used part of the ruins that they moved to Istanbul for the construction of various buildings. The remains of the walls - the boulê (city council), the agora and the mosaics in a Roman villa - are the major parts still visible.

It takes a lot of imagination to reconstruct the Roman bouleutêrion, baths and theatre. On the other hand, it is easy to recognize the small Hellenistic temple of Athena perched on a hill. On the peninsula are the ruins of the bishopric's palace and some tombs almost covered by the lake water. A little further west, a Hellenistic building with four columns, sanctuary of Endymion. The thick ramparts that surrounded the city are very well preserved.

Located in front of the islands of the peninsula, Ildırı is a fishing village also famous for the archaeological site of Erythrai, which makes it a protected site.

The café of Ildırı is the meeting place of the fishermen. For Turkish pastries, go to the Manzara café famous for its lokma.

For fish, a typical address Chez Ali which only serves fish that he caught himself (Ali'nin Yeri, tel. 0232 725 13 22; on the front sea in Ildırı). Another option is Mutlu Restaurant, which offers barbecued fish (tel. 0232 725 14 11).