In the north, near the Slovenian border
In the forests of the Dinaric Alps, the natural domain of large trees, conifers dominate (firs, black pines, spruces), as do junipers, which are highly resistant to winter snows. In the lower reaches, wooded hills, valleys and vast meadows are home to various species of pedunculate oak, hornbeam, hazel, beech and sycamore.
In the far north of Croatia, the king of the forest is the brown bear!
More than a thousand of them reproduce here. While hunting wild boar, deer and roe deer is widely permitted, shooting bears is strictly regulated (four months a year); the plantigrade is one of the three protected large carnivores, along with the lynx and the wolf. At Zagreb Veterinary University, research on the brown bear is led by one of Europe's leading specialists, Professor Djuro Huber. The Kuterevo association, in a village of the same name (30 km from Senj), is also helping to save the bear. A team of volunteers runs a refuge for orphaned bears, which can be visited.
Still in the forest, the patient observer may spot wild boar, wild cats or red foxes. With the wolf, it's more difficult! Reintroduced to Slovenia in the 1990s, the dreaded canid has just reappeared in northern Croatia and in the heights of Plitvice Park. Much less feared, the pine marten, or kuna, holds a special place in Croatian hearts. This small carnivorous mammal, a member of the mustelid family, has been chosen as the symbol of the national currency (HRK). In the Middle Ages, the fur on its long, bushy tail was used as currency. Today, the animal is engraved on the coins still in use, along with the bear, the fish, the turtledove and the endemic yellow iris(Degenia velebitica).
Another emblematic animal is the strange anguillate protus(Proteus anguinus), which divers have unearthed in the karst caves of the Dinaric Alps (Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Italy). Protected in the same way as amphibians, this predator of the aquatic underground belongs to the salamander family. It is sometimes nicknamed the "human fish" because its photosensitive skin resembles that of humans. Also protected, the sea otter, which lives in the waters of the Plitvice and Krka national parks, feeds on crayfish and freshwater fish.
These lakes and rivers are also home to eels, carp, trout, pike, huchen and catfish. In the Slavonic wetlands (north-east), numerous migratory birds delight ornithologists. In the Kopački Rit Nature Park, there are over 275 species of bird. There are grey herons, wild ducks, moorhens, cranes, golden eagles, short-toed eagles, cormorants, egrets, terns, eagles, storks..
Overfishing and global warming
The seabed of the Kornati archipelago, for example, is carpeted with posidonia. Clinging to the rocks are gorgonians, corals and nudibranchs. Starfish, sponges, more rarely seahorses and very frequently sea urchins can be seen, signs of excellent water quality. Off the island of Losinj, a small colony of wild dolphins is cared for by the Blue World Institute's association, while sea turtles have just been reintroduced to the Istrian coast. On the island of Cres, the colony of griffon vultures does not mix well with holidaymakers. Attempts are being made to reintroduce them on the mainland.
In the southern part of the island, karst trenches have created deep, saline lakes where freshwater mixes with seawater. The endemic flora has adapted to the high temperatures. Cypress, olive, fig and wild almond trees draw water from deep underground. In the garrigue or scrubland, scented with aromatic plants, hide mongooses, olive hypolaïs, Hermann's tortoise, lizards and insects. The Paklenica canyon is home to peregrine falcons, sparrow hawks, harriers and owls, not to mention vipers, two endemic species, the unicorn and the peliade. There are many snakes in Croatia: most of them non-venomous, like the leopard snake, the garter snake or the orvet. All in all, an admirable biodiversity!
A country divided between tourism and ecology
But today, Croatia is no exception to the global paradox. Its crystal-clear waters in the Adriatic Sea are attracting more and more people. This over-visitation is damaging the ecosystem. In recent years, a collective awareness has emerged of the problems caused by environmental pressure. The facts are simple: the goose that lays the golden eggs is fragile.
After the Second World War, Croatia rapidly developed its natural resources into a veritable mono-industry. The economic stakes linked to tourism are based on the appeal of historic cities, but above all on the pleasures of seaside resorts, yachting and the discovery of fantastic national parks. Having the chance to enter unspoilt nature, bathing at the foot of waterfalls, watching for wild geese, finding a deserted island, observing the seabed, encountering marine mammals or large birds... all this is possible in Croatia. Problem: every summer, mass tourism in the south of the country threatens the balance of this wonderful natural heritage. The concreting of coasts and islands is combined with an increase in cruise ships, offshore exploitation and other pollutants. But how can we find a compromise between the need to exploit nature and the duty to preserve our common heritage? This is the enormous challenge facing Croatian political leaders and, by extension, civil society as a whole.
