Things to see and do Eastern Macedonia

This rocky promontory, which rises more than 1,000 m above sea level, is presented as the "Kokino Megalithic Observatory" (Кокино Мегалитска Обсерваторија): according to the local official version, it would have been used for astronomical observations during prehistoric times. As such, it has been included in the Unesco World Heritage Tentative ("secondary") list since 2009. Excavations conducted from 2001 have brought to light a hundred objects left by man between the ^nineteenth and ^seventh century BC and presented in the museum of Kumanovo. However, no serious study came to support the theory of "the observatory". If Nasa supported this thesis for a time, the American space agency retracted in 2015, describing the site of Kokino as "a particularly problematic case". This one owes its name to its reddish-hued rocks: in Greek, κόκκκινο/kokkino means "red". Placed at the top of the hill of Tatićev Kamen, between 1,010 and 1,030 m above sea level, it extends about 90 m in length and 50 m in width. The complex dominates the hamlet of Kokino, to the southwest, across the road. In addition to the remains of an enclosing wall to the north of the promontory, the "observatory" would be made up of four platforms spreading out towards the west and of stones presented as strategically placed to follow the movements of the sun and the moon. But the visit proves to be disappointing, because the place - as beautiful as it is - does not shelter very "telling" vestiges.

Founded in 1080, this Orthodox monastery (Вељушки Mанастир/Veljuški Manastir) is located 400 m above the village of Veljusa (population 1,500). Dedicated to the Mother of God Eleousa ("of compassion"), it houses a community of nuns, a garden with boxwood lined paths and various buildings that have been rebuilt many times. The catholicon (main church) preserves elements of the ^eleventh century: fragments of mosaic, marble iconostasis and some frescoes, including that of Christ Emmanuel in the dome. Beautiful views over the plain of Strumica.

This rocky mass of volcanic origin (Цоцев Камен, pronounced "tsotsev kamen") dominates the Kriva Valley at 481 m above sea level. Consisting of two hills facing each other, it has strange natural cavities and traces of human presence (red pigments, holes in the rock ...) from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. According to some authors, the site was an astronomical observatory, a place of sacrifice... or a shepherds' shelter. But no serious study has yet been conducted. The place remains nevertheless intriguing and superb at sunset.

Created in 2021, this protected area (Заштитен Предел Малешево/Zaštiten Predel Maleševo) covers 115 ^km2 along the Bulgarian border, between the municipalities of Berovo, Pehčevo and Delčevo. Managed by the national forestry office and the private company Pharmachem, it is home to oak and beech forests. However, in the face of opposition from local forestry companies, tourist facilities have been slow to develop. However, the Spikovski waterfalls are within easy reach.

Here the small Baba River makes a series of jumps to form a wide waterfall 19 m high (Колешински Водопад/Kolešinski Vodopad). Fitted out with picnic tables, the site is located under Mount Beles, 610 m above sea level, near Kolešino. Often frozen in winter, the waterfall is impressive in spring, when the Baba River flows in a torrent. For your information, the village of Kolešino (600 inhabitants) is presented as a model of inter-religious tolerance with Orthodox, four communities of Protestants and another of Jehovah's Witnesses.

Set on a peak 1,005 m above sea level, this Orthodox monastery (Матеички Манастир/Mateički Manastir, Manastiri i Mateçit) is one of the most precious in the country. Alas, it was severely vandalized during the Albanian uprising of 2001. Founded in 1057 by the Byzantine emperor Isaac ^I, the complex was restored by the Serbian kings Stefan Dušan and Stefan Uroš V between 1300 and 1357. Dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God (Успение на Пресвета Богородица/Uspenie na Presveta Bogorodica), it was a major monastic center in the ^15th century, before gradually falling into disrepair, until its revival in the 1920s. In the meantime, the lead from the roof was removed in the ^18th century to cover the Sinan Tatar Bey mosque in Kumanovo. But the most significant damage was caused by members of the KLA-M in 2001. Since then, little work has been undertaken. The annex buildings remain in ruins. As for the elegant catholicon (main church), if it seems in a correct state from the outside, it has lost most of its frescoes. Only a cycle of the Dormition of the Mother of God and the portrait of King Dušan with his wife Helena and their son Uroš V are well preserved. The church also preserves a Greek inscription about the foundation in the ^11th century. Located between the Skopska Crna Gora massif (Skopje region) and the Žegligovo valley (Kumanovo region), the monastery is in the municipality of Matejče (Mateç/Mateçi in Albanian), which has a population of about 2,900, almost all of whom are Albanian since the 2001 conflict.

Created in 2020, this protected area (Заштитен Предел Осоговски Планини/Zaštiten Predel Osogovski Planini) covers 488 ^km2 between Kriva Palanka, Kratovo and Kočani. Managed by the private company Pharmachem, it is home to extensive forest areas (beech, oak, elm, hornbeam, ash, hazel) and two protected animals: the lanner falcon(Falco biarmicus) and an endemic species of newt. From Kriva Palanka, a road leads to the Stanecki waterfalls and the small Kalin Kamen lake.

This peak (Лисец, pronounced "lilies") reaches 1,754 m in altitude. It is the highest point of the small Plačkovica massif, which extends 34 km in length between the Radoviš region in the south and Kočani in the northwest. The various peaks and the Zrnovska Valley, which bisects the massif, are popular for their hiking routes. Several accommodations are available there, including the Bel Kamen Hotel. About 5 km northwest of it is a building used as a hospital by partisans during World War II.

This artificial lake of 4.5 ^km2 (Езеро Мантово/Ezero Mantavo) is a popular destination for local residents. Some of them have a second home there. There are also fishermen and two restaurants. The lake was created in 1978 on the Kriva Lakavica River for the water needs of the Bučim mine and to irrigate nearby farms. To the north, near the dam, the village of Dolna Vrachtica/Долна Враштиц is deserted. To the southeast, the village of Gabrevci/Габревци (220 inhabitants) is home to one last pottery workshop.

This river (Кратовска Река) originates in the Osogovo massif and receives three streams in the center of Kratovo. Here, its steep banks are developed for walking and four Ottoman bridges span it. Of particular note is the Čaršiski ("Tsar's") bridge erected in 1804 in honor of the sultan opposite the clock tower. Downstream, next to the old prison and museum, the Grofčanski Bridge bears the name of the family that built it around 1720. The Kratovska then joins the Kriva (a tributary of the Vardar), 9 km to the west, at the hamlet of Ketenovo.

Discovered in 1919, this site (Археолошкиот Локалитет Големо Градиште/Arheološkiot Lokalitet Golemo Gradište) contains the remains of a Byzantine city founded in the^fifth century on a promontory in the Kriva Valley. The foundations of several buildings are visible: two basilicas, two villas, streets and a cistern around what must have been the central square. In the distance, there are also hermit cells. In summer, local and American archaeologists can be seen working there.

This amazing geological site (Камени Кукли/Kameni Kukli) evokes, in a miniature version, the Turkish valley of Göreme, in Cappadocia. It covers about 400^m2 and owes its name to the hundred and twenty or so rock columns that stand here in a small valley on the right bank of the Kriva River. Most of these "stone dolls" are no more than 5 m high, but a group of about fifteen columns reaches at least 10 m high. According to one legend, they are petrified soldiers while crossing a burning forest. Another version wants that these columns are inhabitants of the region changed into stone while they took part in a marriage between two lovers of rival villages. It is true that some of the shapes evoke human or animal bodies. The scientific reality is that they are "fairy chimneys": columns of volcanic deposits rather friable, whose more resistant top ensured the maintenance against erosion. Here, the phenomenon occurred over a period of about 100,000 years with volcanic rocks (andesite and ignimbrite) that are themselves at least 30 million years old. The site is relatively clean and well maintained. Along the trail are picnic tables and a gift store. On the other side of the parking lot is a rather nice traditional restaurant, Restoran Etno Kuklica (facebook.com/KuklicaEtno) with an outdoor pool and a large garden.

Known as the "Tsar's Towers" (Цареви Kули/Carevi Kuli), this fortress is located halfway up Mount Elenica (971 m) overlooking Strumica to the west. Most of the structure dates from the reign of the Bulgarian Tsar Samuel ^I (997-1014). Not much remains of this small castle, but the views are superb. The old keep, known as the "Pirg Tower", has been restored. Elsewhere, the remains of another tower, ramparts, a chapel, a well, a cistern and the powerful gateway to the east, near the signal tower, can be seen.

This thermal area (Бања Банско/Banja Bansko) is formed around five hot springs, one of which comes out at 72 °C. They flow into the Salandza basin, where the water still reaches 56 °C. The place houses the remains of Roman baths of the ^third century with ten rooms and portions of walls from 2 to 6.70 m high. These were rediscovered in 1972. There are now two hotels and health centers where rheumatism is treated. The neighboring village of Bansko has about 2,400 inhabitants, 47% of whom are Turks and 32% Macedonians.

Opened in 2014, this museum (Музеј на Дејците на ВМРО/Muzej na Dejcite na VMRO) is housed in the beautiful Andronov House, which dates back to the ^19th century. It is dedicated to the local figures of the Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization (IMRO, 1894-1934), which fought for the attachment to Bulgaria and/or the independence of Slavic Macedonia. Designed under the nationalist and populist Prime Minister Nikola Gruevski (2006-2016), it is a bit ridiculous with its wax statues and its big hoofed propaganda. But around it, the neighborhood of Novo Selo is pleasant.

This massif is about 60 km long and starts south of Strumica and extends eastward into Greece and Bulgaria. It is called Belasica/Беласица in Macedonian and Bulgarian and Belles/Μπέλλες in Greek. At the junction of the three countries is Mount Tumba, at 1,881 m above sea level, about 26 km southeast of Strumica as the crow flies. But the highest point is Mount Kerkini/Radomir, at 2,031 m above sea level, a little further east, on the Greek-Bulgarian border. In Northern Macedonia, the massif separates the region of Strumica from the lake Dojran. A path allows to connect the two.

This resort area (Tуристичка Населба Абланица/Turistička Naselba Ablanica) lies in a clearing around the Bregalnica River, 900 m above sea level. There is a modern chapel dedicated to St. Petka and about 100 villas and cottages, some of which are rented. It is the starting point of several trails (on foot or by mountain bike). One of them leads to the center of Berovo (3 km). Another one follows the Bregalnica from its source to the lake of Berovo (8 km).

Opened in 2004, this monument (Меморијален Центар АСНОМ) is decorated with a colorful mosaic of 140^m2. It is dedicated to the Antifascist Assembly for the Liberation of the Macedonian People (ASNOM). This was founded on August 2, 1944, in the monastery of Prohor Pčinski, in Serbia, 9 km to the north, then dissolved by Tito in early 1945. Considered as independentists or probulgares, a hundred of militants were then executed. An important official ceremony is held here on August 2, the national holiday, on the anniversary of the Ilinden uprising in 1903.

Established in 2012, this ministation (Ски-Центар Пониква) is located south of Osogovo. It extends from 1,300 to 1,650 m above sea level with a chairlift, a tug, 1.3 km of slopes, accommodation and a rental equipment company. The ski conditions are uncertain (the snow cannons have been sabotaged) and, when there is snow, it is crowded on weekends. On the other hand, it is nice in summer for hiking. There is even an airfield using the Kočani road as a runway.

This monument (Спомен Костурница/Spomen Kosturnica) has stood since 1957 on a small hill with a park and a soccer field below. Designed by Serbian sculptor Sreten Stojanović (1898-1960), it consists of a concrete obelisk about 20 m high, a bronze statue of a woman holding up an ear of corn, and a crypt housing the remains of some 300 partisans who died during World War II. The site offers views of the city center and the Banevo Trlo neighborhood, which is mostly populated by Albanians and Roma.