The most beautiful religious buildings Polog And Reka

Located along the Pena River, this superb ^19th-century mosque (Шарена Џамија/Šarena Džamija, Xhamia e Larme) is a rarity in Islamic architecture: its exterior and interior walls are adorned with rich, brightly-colored decoration. In the Balkans, only the Colorful Mosque in Travnik (1817), Bosnia-Herzegovina, and the Et'hem Bey Mosque in Tirana (1823), Albania, preserve comparable frescoes. Here, the mosque is modest in size (10 x 10 m) and preceded by a five-arched porch. It was built in 1833, on the site of an earlier "colored" mosque dating from 1495, of which only the 28 m-high minaret remains. It was commissioned by the region's governor, Abdurrahman Pacha. This Albanian patron of the arts, a follower of Bektashism, was the son of Rexhep Pacha, the governor who enlarged the Arabati-Baba tekké. To decorate "his" mosque, Abdurrahman Pacha called on craftsmen from the Debar region, renowned for its iconostasis sculptors and church painters. It is said that 30,000 egg yolks were needed to make the paint and varnish for the decorations.

Star of the Mahdi. The outer walls each feature some 30 rectangular panels painted with geometric and arabesque motifs. The façade has fewer painted panels and more arabesques. The porch features a large six-pointed star, rather than the classical five-pointed one representing the five pillars of Islam. This is the symbol of the Mahdi, the "Saviour" awaited by all Muslims, but whose belief is more widespread among Bektashis (and Shiites) than among traditionalist Sunnis. Inside, the six-pointed star can be found in various places. The mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca) and minbar (pulpit) are carved marble and painted in a baroque style. On the porch side, the upper part of the wall is open with three corbelled balconies, also in Baroque style. The walls are decorated with floral and geometric motifs, Arabic calligraphy and landscapes depicting Muslim buildings. Among the latter is a representation, extremely rare if not unique in a mosque, of the Prophet's tomb in Mecca. The carved wooden dome is adorned with twelve medallions representing six floral compositions and six mosques in the Tetovo region. Last but not least, note the ^18th-century wooden clock with a mechanism indicating the (variable) prayer times.

This vast Ottoman-period tekké (Арабати Баба Теќе/Arabati Baba Teḱe, Teqeja e Baba Harabatit) belongs to the brotherhood of the bektashis, the most tolerant branch of Sufi Islam. The complex, which resembles a fortified camp, extends over 26,700 m². It boasts a magnificent garden, a dozen classical Ottoman-style buildings and around a hundred tombs of dervishes and followers of Bektashism. It was founded in 1538 by the Turkish dervish master Sersem Ali Baba. But it bears the name of his disciple and successor, Arabati Baba. It was he who undertook the expansion of the tekké after the death of his master in 1549. Out of humility, these two great theologians and poets adopted ridiculous sobriquets: in Turkish sersem means "madman" or "fool" and harabati is derived from the ancient Arabic arābātat, meaning "drunkard". It was from this tekké that the humanistic precepts of the bektashis spread to the Albanian-speaking populations of the Balkans. However, the complex took on its current appearance between 1799 and 1820 under Rexhep Pasha. An adept of Bektashism, this Albanian governor of the Tetovo region undertook major renovations.

Welcoming dervishes and intimidating bearded men. Rexhep Pacha's original intention was to house his daughter Fatima, who was suffering from tuberculosis, so that she could breathe the pure air of the Šar Mountains. Thanks to his patronage, the complex continued to flourish, attracting ever more dervishes, scholars, poets, pilgrims and donors. When the bektashis became too influential at the sultan's court and were expelled from present-day Turkey, the brotherhood transferred its headquarters to the Arabati-Baba tekké in 1826. When the Ottomans left in 1912, the headquarters were finally transferred to Tirana, Albania, where they remain today. Since 1912, the tekké has suffered a long decline. Closed down by the Yugoslav socialist authorities in 1945, it fell victim to arson in 1948, before being transformed into a tourist complex in the 1960s with a restaurant, hotel and even, for a time, a discotheque. After independence and another fire in 1992, it was finally returned to the Bektashis in 1994. But since 2002, part of the complex has been occupied by a group of Sunni Islamists who consider the Bektashis to be "heretics". Fortunately, a visit is still possible. But it can be a little strange, with welcoming, peaceful dervishes on one side, and sometimes intimidating fundamentalist bearded men on the other.

This Orthodox monastery dedicated to Saint Athanasius of Alexandria (Лешочки Манастир/Lešočki Manastir, Manastiri i Leshkës) is a symbol of Macedonian identity. The faithful come here to pay their respects at the tomb of Kiril Pejčinoviḱ (c. 1771-1845), a Bulgarian monk from Tearce canonized by the Macedonian Orthodox Church in 2022. Enjoying a beautiful setting, with the Šar Mountains in the background, the complex was founded in the ^14th century by Serbian prince and saint Lazar Hrebeljanović (1329-1389). Destroyed by the Ottomans after the Austrian incursion into Polog around 1683-1699, it was restored by Kiril Pejčinoviḱ, who was higoumène (abbot) of the monastery from 1818. A great literary and religious figure, Pejčinoviḱ is both considered the creator of the modern Bulgarian language and one of the earliest contributors to the Macedonian language. On the heights of the complex remain the ruins of the old ^14th-century Church of St. Athanasius. To the south-east of the courtyard stands the 19th-century Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God. Dating from the ^19th century, it is very simple in form and features frescoes from the ^14th, ^17th and ^19th centuries. Finally, the new Church of St. Athanasius, completed in 1936, is massive and of a style that is, to say the least, haphazard. Badly damaged during the 2001 civil war, it was rebuilt with European funding in 2007. Various ^{twentieth-century} buildings recall the monastery's use as an orphanage and as an annex to the Tetovo hospital specializing in the treatment of lung diseases.

This mosque (Инќар Џамија/Inḱar Džamija, Xhamia e Hynqarit) is Debar's oldest. But it is awaiting renovation. It was erected in 1467 thanks to a gift from Sultan Mehmet II and bears the Turkish name of Hünkâr Camii ("Sovereign's Mosque"). Rebuilt in 1938, it is still used by the inhabitants of the old charchia district. However, the city's Muslims are more likely to frequent the "Clock Tower Mosque" (Xhamia e Sahat Kullës) built in 2013, 300 m south-west of Skanderbeg Square.

This abandoned Orthodox church (Црква Свети Никола Летен/Crkva Sveti Nikola Leten) is an Instagrammer's delight: it's partly submerged in Lake Mavrovo. Built in 1850, it's the only visible building of the former village of Mavrovo, buried between 1947 and 1956. However, depending on water levels, it is possible to visit the church, of which only the bell tower is still in good condition. The present-day village of Mavrovo has a new St. Nicholas church, built in 2006.

This small stone Orthodox church (Црква Света Петка/Crkva Sveta Petka) is one of the oldest in the Reka region. It dates from the ^16th century, but no longer features any valuable decoration. It is dedicated to Saint Paraskeva of the Balkans, an ^11th-century Eastern ascetic who took the place locally of Petka, the ancient deity of the South Slavs. Galičnik also boasts the parish church of Saints Peter and Paul (1931) and the chapel of Saint Petka, on the outskirts of the hamlet.

This small, single-nave Orthodox church (Црква Света Варвара/Crkva Sveta Varvara, Kisha e Shën Varvarës) was founded in 1597 by the St. John-Bigorvski monastery. The exterior walls are in poor condition, but the church features superb ^16th- and ^17th-century frescoes. The church stands a little way from the hamlet of Sredno Maalo/Средно Маало ("Middle Village"), part of the municipality of Rajčica/Рајчица (160 inhabitants), or Rajçicë/Rajçica in Albanian.

This Orthodox church (Црква Успение на Пресвета Богородица/Crkva Uspenie na Presveta Bogorodica) is a three-nave basilica completed in 1860. The greatest Mijak artists of the ^19th century worked here. The frescoes were painted by Dičo Zograf (1819-1872), a native of Tresonče. The carved wooden iconostasis was designed by Petar Filipovski (1780-1854) and made by his two brothers Marko and Jovan Filipovski. But twelve of the icons were stolen in 2011.

This Orthodox monastery (Раички Манастир/Raički Manastir, Manastiri në Rajçicë) was founded in the ^14th century and completely rebuilt in the ^19th century. It is famous for providing some of the embroidery for the liturgical vestments worn by the Metropolitans (Orthodox bishops) of North Macedonia, Greece, Bulgaria, Serbia and the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. Beautiful embroideries are sold in the store. Attached to the Macedonian Orthodox Church, this complex is a dependency of the St. John-Bigorvski monastery in Rostuša. It was renovated in 2001 with the support of the Holy Nativity Monastery in Boston, USA, which is part of the Greek Orthodox Metropolis (bishopric) of Boston. The Rajčica monastery is thus occupied by a small community of American and/or English-speaking nuns. It is dedicated to Saint George the Victorious (Sveti Ǵorǵi Pobedonosec). In fact, it houses the only replica of a precious ^10th-century icon "not made by human hands" depicting St. George slaying the dragon, kept at the Bulgarian monastery of Zographou on Mount Athos in Greece. The replica can be seen in the catholicon, the church of St. George. Dating from 1835, it is decorated with frescoes from 1875. It was built on the foundations of a ^16th-century chapel, itself built on the ruins of an ^11th-century castle. Next door, a building houses the nuns' cells, their sewing and embroidery workshops and a small chapel on the upper floor.

Perched 970 m above sea level, this Orthodox monastery (Кичевски Манастир/Kičevski Manastir) was founded in 1316 and rebuilt in the ^19th century. The monastic buildings form an enclosure around the main church dedicated to the "Pure Virgin" (Bogorodica Prečista). It features remarkable frescoes (1865) by the great Mijak painter Dičo Zograf and a beautiful wooden iconostasis (1864). The complex also houses the small Church of St. Nicholas and an area reserved for Muslims, who once came in large numbers because of miraculous cures attributed to the place.