Things to see and do Gyeongsangbuk-Do 경상북도

This village was formed in 1976 when the Andong dam was built. It is made up of old traditional houses in the region that were going to be submerged. There are 10 houses, a Gaeksa (hostel for travel officials) dating back to 1712 and a seokbinggo, a stone cave species where the ice was stored in winter. They kept fish caught in the summer in the river which were then sent to the king. Some houses have been transformed into Korean restaurants. Attention, they close early at night (maximum 21:30).

It was a sacred site, covered with temples and hermitages, palaces and fortresses, Buddhist tombs and statues. There are still many relics from the Silla era (127 temple sites, 87 sculpted Buddhas, 71 stupas). It has recently been added to the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites. You can walk on this beautiful mountain but if you want to see the statues and bas-reliefs scattered on its slopes, you need to be patient and energetic. Perhaps it's best to walk around randomly....

This temple, located on Geumjeongsan Mountain, was built under Silla by the monk Uisang during the 18th year of King Munmu's reign. As the Japanese pirates threatened the coasts once again, the king had a dream that told him to go to the monk Uisang and pray with him for 7 days and 7 nights on this mountain where there was a gold spring (Geumjeong) in which a fish came down from the sky (beomeo) was swimming. The king did so and, after the 7 days of prayer, warriors came down from heaven and defeated the invaders. The monk then founded in this place the temple which took the name of Beom-eosa. It became a centre of the Hwaeom sect ("Flower Garland") that the monk had introduced from China. The greatest of the masters studied and practiced there. The Geumjeong spring can still be seen on the mountain of the same name, behind the temple; it is located at the top of a rock more than 5 m high in a hollow of 4 m in circumference. The temple flourished until Japanese invaders burned it during the Imjin War (1592-1598). It was rebuilt again in 1614, and the main hall and Iljulmun gate would date from that time.

It is a beautiful temple that is now an active center of Zen meditation (seon). We enter via Iljulmun, one of the temple's treasures. In the courtyard stands a 3-storey stupa from Silla (National Treasury). Upstairs stands the main hall, Daeungjeon, dedicated to the historic Buddha, which dates back to 1614. It houses beautiful paintings dating from the end of Joseon. The woodwork inside is splendid, especially the canopy decorated with dragons. The building, also a National Treasure, is simple, but its old unpainted wood gives it an august look. On the left of the main hall is an original tripartite structure built in 1905, housing an altar to the 16 disciples of the Buddha (Nahanjeon) and another containing the 8 paintings of his life (Palsangjeon). In the temple, many other buildings are used by monks as places of residence, meditation or study and cannot be visited. Nevertheless, this temple is one of the most popular for its temple stay program, during which one lives for a day, like a Buddhist monk. It is a rich and intense cultural experience. On the program, silence, meditation, refreshment and history of the place (on request there is the possibility to have the visit in English). From the temple, hiking trails meander through the mountains.

This beautiful temple is a little difficult to access, but it really deserves the detour because it possesses unique treasures. It was founded in 676 by the monk Uisang of Silla who brought to China the teaching of the Secte sect, «of the flower of flowers». This sect was dominant in Korea for about 5 centuries before being replaced by that of Jogye. Buseoksa, the "floating rock temple" is always the centre of this sect. His name comes from the legend attached to him. To protect it from demons, a rock came float over the main hall when it was built. This calligraphy rock is on the left side of this hall. We climb the temple through a beautiful path lined with trees and apple fields. On the right there were 2 stone mounts that were used to set up a huge pole where flags were flying; this custom that disappeared was practised under Silla. We arrive in a courtyard where 2 pagodas go back to the temple foundation. On the left is a newly built hall of construction where the oldest Buddhist wood paintings in the country are exposed. They represent 2 bodhisattvas and 4 celestial guards, and they date from Goryeo. They were once in the main lobby. There are more old planks of xylogravure, also dating from Goryeo, engraved by the Avatamsaka Avatamsaka ("the flower of flowers") which gave his name to the sect. The higher is another courtyard with residential buildings and a staircase passes under the beautiful flag of the bell to arrive at the superior courtyard. From this place the view on the valley is magnificent. Most of the buildings of this temple miraculously escaped the Japanese destruction. Its main hall Muryangsujeon is thus the oldest wooden structure in the country (some say that it would actually be the small hall Geungnakjeon of the temple Bongjeongsa near Andong, but it is far from being so imposing). He was a golfer in the middle of the th century. It is well preserved and fairly large, but its architecture is rather simple. This hall is not only precious in itself by its ancienneté, but also houses a magnificent golden clay Buddha. Strangely placed against the left wall, he has a magnificent flammes of flames in his back. This Buddha is the only one in this material. Opposite the lobby is a great lantern of Joseon's Stone. The higher on the right is a path to Josadang, the second oldest building in the complex dating back to 1372. He is dedicated to Uisang. Nearby, the Nahanjeon Hall contains 2 Statues stone statues dating from the th century. There is at the entrance of the temple some yeogwans and minbaks, as well as restaurants in a pleasant site. Alternatively, you can sleep in the village of Buseok 4 km lower. There is a clean motel with ondol rooms or 30 000-won bed and restaurants on the main street.