Kuta, the most famous spot for beginners
Here, the waves break on sandy bottoms. Along the beach, from the airport, at high tide, the whole beach of Kuta offers nice waves. The breaks, as they are called in the surfing jargon, get stronger and stronger as you move north. This requires a good physical condition and a certain know-how. This is where you will meet the most friendly and open-minded surfers. Many of them are Balinese, but you can get many tips from Australians, Europeans and Japanese.
Further north, Seminyak and Petit-Gent offer nice breaks but often far from the beach. 1 km off Kuta, the reef breaks (more dangerous because the waves break on the reefs) are accessible if you hire an outrigger. You will have the choice between asking the pilot to leave you there and come back to pick you up later, or suggesting him to stay for the duration of your art. This place, like most of the spots in Bali, is starting to be known. The first part of the wave does not pose any problem for an experienced surfer, but from 2,20 m, it breaks.
On the other side, the straights (waves that go to the right from the surfer's point of view) are as dangerous at low tide as at high tide. Some people have left a few shreds there. An outrigger is necessary.
Much further north, on a beach accessible by road from Krobokan, the more remote site of Canggu offers waves up to 1.80 m. Further away, Medewi is known for its broken left at the beginning of high tide, and Balian for its left breaker.Where to surf according to the season?
It is difficult to draw up an exhaustive map of the best spots, because every good surfer has his own spots and keeps them jealously. This is understandable because of the increasing number of surfers every year. It is not pleasant to surf among a human tide. If you find a rare spot, feel free to reveal it or not... During the dry monsoon (from April to October), the trade winds coming from Australia form beautiful waves in the west, between Uluwatu and Gilimanuk in the extreme west of Bali, and in the east in Nusa Lembongan where surfing seems to be practicable during the whole year. During the wet monsoon (November to March), the coast is preferable because of the northeast winds that bring the rains. In fact, many places are potentially suitable for surfing but it requires a good knowledge of tides and reefs.
Among the locals who have made a name for themselves in the surfing world are Rizal Tandjung (in his 40s) who has surfed several times alongside the famous Kelly Slater, his son Varun, and the rising star of Indonesian surfing Branson Meydi (born in 2004).Uluwatu, one of the most beautiful spots in the world for experienced snorkelers
Uluwatu remains famous for its surfing site located east of the sacred temple built by Nirartha, the ancestor of the Buddhist-Shivaite Brahmins of Bali. The site of Suluban is reached after a short 3 km journey from the main road, by stairs and a winding path in a gorge. Above a cave, warungs in enfilade allow you to rest or to eat. The last one is located at the top of the cliff and you discover the hallucinating spectacle of the most famous swell of Asia. A long and fascinating swell by its amplitude, which swells and forms the most amazing "tubes". They are not as high as Hawaii, but they carry all the demons of the Balinese sea. There are about ten different breaks , spread over 120°.
If this is your first encounter with Uluwatu, it's best to get in touch with the regulars before embarking on your adventure, who are busy recounting their exploits in the few losmen sheltering the countless surfboards. They will give you good advice. A quick glance will allow you to judge where the surfers catch the wave.Padang-Padang and Bingin
Always on the peninsula of Bukit. It is necessary to go up towards the north to reach it. After walking along the cliff, stairs will lead you to the site of Padang-Padang where you will discover enveloping tubes that require a good experience. Even further north, the fast tubes of Bingin, near Labuan Sait, await you by road, from Pecatu. Every year in July-August, the very selective Rip Curl Padang Padang takes place, inviting only pro surfers, and in October the Hurley Bingin Open.
Further north, between Jimbaran and Labuan Sait, Balangan beach offers lower waves, but just as dangerous. Because of its more difficult access, this site is less frequented than the others. To the south, about 5 km from Pecatu, Nyang-Nyang beach, accessible by a long staircase that descends from the terrace of a magnificent restaurant with a 180° panoramic view, offers classic straight waves with a maximum amplitude of 1.80 m. It is better to go there without the sea breeze, quite early in the morning.How to get the right equipment
For the small breaks, a small board will be enough but for Uluwatu or the tubes of Padang-Padang, you will need a "Gun", a long board special for the big waves. It is best to rent the equipment on site. Otherwise, avoid taking more than two boards, because the customs will put obstacles in your way. They will ask you for a deposit, thinking that you want to resell them on the spot. Don't forget that you will be in a warm tropical sea (from 22 to 28°C) depending on the season and the currents. A short-sleeved wetsuit is welcome, especially in July, which is the coolest month of the year with sometimes refreshing winds. This wetsuit can also protect the clumsy ones when they go to smash against the reefs. In this case, don't take alcohol (90 degrees) which closes and shrinks the wound, but Betadine or the equivalent of hydrogen peroxide, and plasters for sea water. You will also need good shoes to face the reefs and walk along the cliffs.
