From the airport to the city centre North

In Hanoi, bus 86 runs between Noi Bai airport and the city center (the route includes the tourist district, with a stop on the banks of Lake Hoàn Kiêm). Departures from terminals T1 and T2 between 6.30 a.m. and 11.30 p.m. Allow just over an hour for the journey (ticket: 45,000 VND).

The bus solution is the most economical, but perhaps not the most practical after a 12-hour flight, when you're arriving in an unfamiliar country and are burdened with luggage. Airline-chartered minivans make the same journey faster and more comfortably for VND 50,000. These are located on the left as you leave the airport.

Cabs run between airports and the city center, dropping you off at your hotel door (it's a good idea to negotiate a shuttle with the hotel or incoming agency when booking). You can also book via an app (Grab or other). Expect to pay between 350,000 VND and 450,000 VND, depending on destination, number of seats and traffic conditions.

Arrival by train North

The train is an original, inexpensive but slow (45 km/h average) way to discover the "real" Vietnam. The rail network is 2,600 km long, but in fairly poor condition and with outdated equipment. Most of the time, there's only one track, which means frequent stops to let oncoming traffic pass if you're not on an express train, i.e. one with priority.

Prices vary according to train and seat category. Don't hesitate to pay extra for asoft seat; after a few hours, you'll have no regrets about thehard seat. Berths are divided into 6-, 4- and 2-place compartments. Prices vary according to the quality of the berth:hard sleep orsoft sleep. Trains are expensive and very slow, so compare prices with air travel. But compared with road travel, the train remains the safest (especially for night journeys) and most comfortable means of transport. Trains coded SE1, SE2, E1, E2, S1 and S2, which connect Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, depart in the evening, arriving at their final destination at dawn. The average journey time between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City is still 32 hours. Note also the development of "special trains", with improved comfort, serving tourist destinations such as Sapa, Phan Thiêt and Nha Trang.

Prices and reservations. Ticket prices depend on the booking period, train speed, berth position, softness of seat or berth, air conditioning, etc. You should book at least 4 days in advance (as early as possible) for berths, which are often overbooked, and at least 1 day in advance for seats. If you want to continue your journey by train, make your reservations as soon as you arrive at the station (if ticket offices are open), as stations are often far from the city center. There is often a special counter for foreigners (where you can speak English). Also, be aware of arrival times in the cities. Take precautions if you have to disembark in the middle of the night (by booking a hotel by phone or by notifying us of your late arrival)!

Vietnamese Railways website : dsvn.vn/#/ (in English)

Public transport North

Hanoi, suffocated by traffic jams, is still waiting for its metro, whose completion is constantly delayed by financial and bureaucratic issues. In the major cities, the public transport network is still limited to bus routes, which do their job well. They are little used by tourists, and wrongly so, as they are a fast and very inexpensive means of transport. A useful tip: download the BusMap application for the north of the country and BusMap Hanoi for the capital. In English but easy to use, these applications allow you to choose your route (departure and destination), locate the nearest bus stop and the numbers of buses to take... Indispensable!

Outside urban areas, buses play an essential role in inter-city connections.

Local buses. Serving a wide range of destinations, they are uncomfortable and very slow due to the large number of stops. What's more, seats are tight. The only advantage of this mode of transport is that it's the cheapest way to travel. What's more, local buses are always a good way to get to know a country (they're a great way to discover the Vietnamese D-system). But discomfort, inordinate delays, communication problems, safety issues (overcrowding, companies operating on dangerous routes without a license and breaking the law...), the local bus can also be a way of seeing the country through its bad sides..

Tourist buses. Offered by numerous agencies and outlets, these buses offer much-improved comfort: new vehicles, bunks, wifi...

Minibuses. Minibus companies have sprung up all over the place, offering all possible destinations, with frequent departures. However, conditions are far from optimal: often ageing vehicles, untimely stops, overcrowding... Cafés acting as agencies often take you by minibus. Before buying a ticket, you need to be vigilant and find out how many passengers will be allowed on board.

When choosing the bus as a means of transport, be aware that in Vietnam, road accidents claim the lives of around 80 people every day... Remember to consider the safety conditions: condition of the vehicle, driver (!), number of passengers.

Bike, scooters & co North

Two-wheeled vehicles (motorcycles and bicycles) can be hired through the hotels. Otherwise, there are numerous small garages on the streets, often close to the hotels. Fortunately, there are plenty of guarded parking areas. The number is marked on the saddle and on a plastic card given to the driver, which must not be lost. Approximate cost: bicycle 2,000 VND; moped 5,000 VND. Helmets are compulsory on national and provincial roads. As helmets available on the local market are of variable quality, it is advisable to bring a European-standard helmet if you intend to rent a motorcycle; you should also make sure you are covered by insurance (a problem if you don't have an international driving license...).

Motorcycles. The motorcycle is certainly the most suitable means of transport for anyone wishing to travel to the heart of the country independently and at their own pace. From experienced bikers to complete beginners (it's possible to take courses), two-wheeled enthusiasts will find all the information and services they need at certain agencies.

It's important to choose the right season before deciding on a route, as some roads are prone to landslides or rising water levels, making them impassable during the rainy season. Personal medical insurance is of course necessary, as is a helmet, a good map (be careful not to cross military zones!) and/or Google Maps (in certain areas, the smartphone and its GPS may find their usefulness limited by the vagaries of 3G) and MapsMe (which does not require an Internet connection). You can rent automatics (Japanese mopeds from 80 cm3 to 110 cm3) or larger-displacement Honda or Yamaha bikes (250 cm3) in most major cities for a daily fee of between US$5 and US$35.

For mountain outings, and if the rider is accompanied (not forgetting the luggage...), prefer a displacement greater than 200cc, which will provide the necessary power for steep climbs, but take care to choose a trustworthy rental company, because in the event of a mechanical problem, this type of motorcycle cannot be repaired by mountain road mechanics, for lack of knowledge and spare parts. For mountain tours, avoid automatic bikes at all costs, as engine braking is essential to cope with endless descents...

Generally speaking, the rental company does not ask for a driving license (remember that the French license is not recognized in Vietnam, if it is not accompanied by an international license), but only for you to fill in a rental contract. Sometimes, a deposit may be required (avoid leaving your passport behind, as a precaution, and because it is required at hotel reception; don't forget to ask the rental company for the motorcycle's papers and telephone number, so that you can contact them in the event of any problems with the police). If you choose to travel with a guide and as part of a tour organized by a specialized agency, you can avoid this kind of inconvenience. For all motorcyclists, it's essential to observe safety rules to the letter. Helmets are mandatory. Helmets are available from rental companies for around US$1 per day, or are included in the guided tour package. Choose and check your helmet carefully - it could save your life! Goggles are essential to protect you from insects, gravel and other hazards not always identified. Gloves are also highly recommended. Drive at the pace of the country, so as not to be surprised by unpredictable driving. Beware of the frequently fortuitous behavior of other road users. Avoid riding at night. Bicycles have no lights, and pedestrians and buffalo are invisible. Other vehicles drive with their headlights on. If you want to manage the stages well, allow for an average speed of 30 km/h. On rolling roads, it takes 7 to 8 hours to cover 200 km, including meals and (preferably frequent) stops. Above all, make sure you know exactly where you're going. There are many sensitive areas in Vietnam: military zones, areas close to borders or areas where many minorities live together. Finally, be aware of the Vietnamese context and always adopt a respectful and responsible attitude. NB: two-wheeled vehicles are prohibited on Vietnamese highways(duong cao tôc).

Mopeds. In many towns, you can rent a Honda (the queen of mopeds) by the day. Prices vary from US$5 to US$10 per day. It's best to draw up a contract or go through the hotel reception. Don't forget your helmet.

Bikes. They can be rented by the day in some hotels and cafés. Vietnamese bicycles still have no lights and often no brakes. Many expatriate cyclists use helmets, signal lights and reflectors.

Unfortunately, these accessories are not commonly available in Vietnam. For cycling enthusiasts, it's best to think about this before you leave. Cycling seems to be back in vogue in the Vietnamese capital, with enthusiasts importing expensive models. Tourist agencies also offer cycling tours for which they take care of the logistics.

Electric bikes. Mainly imported from China, electric bikes are becoming increasingly popular in Vietnamese cities. They are often used by young teenagers (for parents, they are cheaper to buy and use than a motorcycle). Their environmental impact has yet to be assessed, but one thing is certain: silent, relatively fast and powerful, often with poor signage and lighting, and operated by young, novice drivers who are often unaware of the danger, they are an additional hazard on Vietnamese roads.

With a driver North

Cab companies have multiplied. All real cabs display the company's name and telephone number, and have meters (tell the driver to turn it on...). They are not very expensive and are the safest way to get around town at night.

Vietnam has not been spared the upheavals caused by the emergence of disruptive models that are reshuffling the cards in certain sectors of the economy. Traditional cab companies now have to reckon with the rise of transport apps. For tourists, the use of these apps (Grab, InDriver, Go-viet) is recommended (fixed, advertised fares, routes traceable on the phone) and easy to access, especially Grab, which is in English and has many vehicles available in Hanoi.

By car North

The French driving license is not recognized in Vietnam. Since December1, 2014, you can present your international license accompanied by your French driving license, including if you reside in Vietnam. If you reside in Vietnam, on the basis of a bilateral agreement between France and Vietnam, you can also request the exchange of your French driving license for a Vietnamese license (translated by a sworn translator) by applying to the traffic and transport department in your city of residence. This license also allows you to drive two-wheelers up to 175 cc.

Some expatriates do drive, but they are rare, and given the legal provisions and traffic conditions, it is preferable to use the services of a chauffeur. For tourists, in any case, this is a must when renting a car.

Otherwise, the car is the fastest, most practical and most open to discovery means of transport. In short, it's the ideal way to explore Vietnam. With four people, it's perfect for sharing costs. Rental cars are charged by the kilometer outside built-up areas and by the day in town. They can be rented with a driver. Rentals are available from all official agencies, shops and cafés. In all cases, be sure to check the driver's skills and physical condition (fatigue, etc.). Beware of the effects of alcohol during stages; some exhausted drivers resort to drugs to keep going at all costs.

Tourist traps North

Be careful on trains and planes - they're the hunting grounds of pickpockets! On trains, beware of razor-wielding virtuosos, who cut pockets and bags with remarkable discretion. On planes, watch out for belongings stowed in luggage compartments, especially if they're out of sight.

When paying in cabs, be sure to check the amount displayed by the taximeter, and watch out for the number of 0s so that it is not multiplied by 10 or 100..