It is a stone's throw from Barcelona tourist destination that we find this little corner of Catalonia... and paradise! Around the Llobregat River stretch the powerful massifs of Montserrat which deliciously plunge towards the beaches of the Mediterranean. The county of Baix Llobregat is therefore a multifaceted spot, with exceptional natural spaces and pretty villages with an incredible architectural heritage. In short, whether historical, gastronomic or festive, the heritage of Baix Llobregat has something to seduce its lucky visitors. Even when summer becomes a distant memory and autumn and winter temperatures are just around the corner.
An exceptional fauna and flora
It is a few kilometres from Barcelona International Airport that this wetland habitat and its incredible biodiversity are revealed. Here, through fragrant pine forests, soggy meadows and coastal lagoons, we discover landscapes with very prolific fauna and flora in all seasons. Because, at the mouth of the Llobregat River, the delta has formed a vast alluvial plain of nearly 100 km² where vegetation (composed of more than 700 species) covers the dunes and calm waters. And it is here that nearly 360 species of birds have made their home on the migratory route of the western Mediterranean. A godsend that earned it (in part) the status of a "special protection area for birds" and was thus very popular with ornithologists and birdwatching enthusiasts. Lucky people who happily take out their binoculars on the observatories set up along charming paths. Finally, all along the coast, the beaches of El Prat, Castelldefels, Gavà or Viladecans, sunny whatever the season, complete this exceptional picture
A recognized heritage
In terms of heritage, Baix Llobregat is also a choice destination that will delight the whole family. It was in Gavà, more than 6,000 years ago, that man broke through the rock in search of variscite (a semi-precious mineral) at the foot of the eastern slope of the Garraf mountains. He dug the oldest mine in galleries in Europe. And it was in these rocky cavities that the "Venus de Gavà" was discovered, this mysterious black ceramic figure, now on display in the archaeological park museum
In Sant Boi de Llobregat, north of the delta, the politician Rafael Casanova, the ultimate head of the Barcelona Hundred Council during the War of the Spanish Succession, lived his last days in the Can Barraquer mansion. It is here that the collections of the Sant Boi Museum, a true memory of regional history, are housed. Attached to the museum, the Roman baths built in the 2nd century AD bear witness to the past splendour of the Empire
The rest of our journey will take us to the village of Torrelles de Llobregat where young and old will discover Catalunya en Miniatura, an open-air museum that offers a beautiful overview of the most important buildings in Catalan architecture. In the heart of the wooded panoramas that border the museum, children can also try their hand at tree climbing or zip line. Laughter and sensations guaranteed! Then, going up to the steep alleys of Corbera de Llobregat, a completely different heritage, very much alive, is not to be missed. Every winter, the village stages its living crib, one of the most important in Catalonia. Indeed, since 1962, nearly 200 actors have been slipping into the costumes of biblical characters. This year again, we look forward to seeing you from the beginning of December 2019 to mid-January 2020. A magical moment in perspective!
Long live Catalan modernism!
But the regional heritage would be nothing without its testimonies of Catalan modernism. And it is obviously Gaudí, his most famous representative, who left behind him a myriad of architectural treasures. So we hurry to marvel in the splendid crypt of the Colònia Güell church. In the architectural complexity of the building built by the architect at the beginning of the 20th century (and obviously classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Gaudí's genius is already evident. On the other side of the river, his collaborator Josep Maria Jujol has turned the village of Sant Joan Despi into a real experimental laboratory for his work: here we can mention the white tower of La Creu surmounted by rounded domes that answers the nickname of "egg tower" or the historic farm Can Negre transformed by Jujol into an architectural jewel. Further east, in the Esplugues de Llobregat museums (Rajoleta, Can Tinturé museum) you will discover the art of modernist ceramics. Further south, in Cornellà de Llobregat, the Agbar de les Aigües Museum - dedicated to water - has settled in the modernist buildings of Central Cornellá. Finally, you can make a last stop at the Palau Mercader de Cornellà, a superb 19th century building and home of the Musée des Mathématiques, which offers 300 m² of recreational activities and thematic exhibitions.
Journey to the centre of the Earth
A Mecca of Catalan spirituality, the Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Montserrat dominates the singular massifs rising above the Llobregat. Here, the vegetation seems to cling to the rugged terrain, which is also a perfect playground for mountaineers and climbers. After enjoying a breathtaking view, we will head to the collections of the Montserrat Museum, where ancient archaeological remains, works dedicated to the iconography of the Virgin of Montserrat, sumptuous pieces of religious silversmithing and remarkable painted works by Caravaggio, El Greco, Rusiñol, Dalí, Picasso or even Degas, Pissarro, Sisley and Money are mixed. Gateway to the Montserrat massif, the village of Collbató, a starting point for many hikes and known for its medieval heritage, is home to the incredible caves of Montserrat, whose route is located inside the massif. Travelled through winding galleries and adorned with mineral concretions several millennia ago, they cross the mountains more than 500 metres underground. Enough to fascinate little and big children!
A jumble of activities and quality local gastronomy
If summer, its beaches and water activities (paddle, sailing, windsurfing, water skiing, canoeing or kayaking) are only distant memories as the mercury begins to fall, we will deliciously sink into the land. What a joy to explore the massifs of Montserrat, Collserola, Garraf or Ordal. Here, a whole network of hiking trails is spread out. With family or friends, the contrasting landscapes of the Llobregat delta, which can be explored on foot or by bike, offer a dense vegetation suitable for strolling and bird watching. Going up the river to Collbató, we will walk through the heart of the olive groves and taste olive oil. A perfect introduction to discovering regional gastronomy. Because as soon as autumn arrives, what a joy to find good addresses for longer meals. Heir to a strong agricultural tradition, Baix Llobregat can boast one of the oldest agricultural parks in Catalonia: the Agrari del Baix Llobregat Park, which extends over almost... 3,000 hectares! Some of the highlights on the menu at the local addresses include cherries, asparagus, artichokes and chickens from the "El Prat" breed. At the whim of authentic villages, the mercats of Pagès (or farmers' markets) invite you to taste and offer a tasty introduction to discover local products. Then, we will go under the table, whether in chiringuitos or in traditional restaurants. The most extensive wallets can even find very good gastronomic addresses
And every year in December (from 13 to 15 December for the 2019 edition), the poultry fair of the breed bearing the "El Prat" stamp honours this indigenous breed. That same month also saw one of the oldest gatherings in Catalonia, the Fira de la Puríssima de Sant Boi de Llobregat (from 6 to 8 December for the 2019 edition). A fair where local product markets, crafts presentations and theatrical events all commemorate Sant Boi's ancient popular heritage. Another gourmet event, the Fira de la Candelera de Molins de Rei, which will be held in 2020 on the first weekend of February, will offer a fine programme of concerts and exhibitions, as well as tastings of local products. A "celebration of national interest" that has been going on for more than 150 years. To the delight of the gourmets that we are!
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