Experiencing Japanese Spirituality
Since prehistoric times, Kumano has been recognized as a sacred site associated with the cult of nature. However, it was from the 6th century onwards, with the arrival of Buddhism on Japanese soil, that the region became a coveted practice site. As Buddhism became increasingly important in Japan, it was in the 9th and 10th centuries that the sacred sites we know today were formed. This complex network of paths and trails is a wonderful demonstration of the religious setting of the region and its strong spiritual character. Shintoism, Buddhism and also the Shingon Buddhist school, an esoteric aspect of Buddhism, little known in the West, are represented here. More commonly known as the Shingon sect, the Shingon Buddhist school was introduced to Japan by the monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi, after his posthumous name) in the 8th century. There is also shugendō, this thousand-year-old Japanese spiritual tradition of communion between man and nature, which is at the crossroads of mountain worship, the Shinto religion and Buddhism and Taoism. It is the strength of these beliefs that gives the paths their mystical and sacred side that today's hiker can feel as he walks along these paths in the midst of lush nature. It should also be noted that the imperial family, during the 11th and 13th centuries, made almost 100 pilgrimages to Kumano and its influence played an important role. These numerous pilgrimages were thus at the origin of the construction of many sanctuaries and accommodations. This period of history saw the main places of worship develop to their status that can still be appreciated today. These pilgrimage routes allowed, and still allow, to reach the sacred sites of Kumano Sanzan and the three largest shrines of Kumano: the great shrine of Kumano Hongu Taisha, the Kumano Nachi-taisha and the shrine of Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
The magic of the place
These pilgrimage routes are precious goods unique in the world because of the grandeur of their history and the nature that surrounds them. The sacred sites are spread over more than 500 hectares among the forest that has covered these sanctified mountains for 1200 years now. The setting that envelops these trails is simply sumptuous with its torrents, rivers, waterfalls, cedars and numerous "Oji", the secondary shrines of the Great Shrines of Kumano that punctuate the route for pilgrims to give offerings. It is said that there are 99 Oji, but the exact number is unknown. This living culture of Japan still fascinates today's visitors, both Japanese and foreigners. Before the pandemic, the number of Oji could reach 15 million a year. Indeed, far beyond the pleasure of the body and mind, when hiking on exotic and relatively sporty trails (some portions are reserved for trained and equipped people), it is the atmosphere permeating these trails that makes the experience exceptional. The magic that emanates from these places is fascinating. These paths, steeped in history, have seen many pilgrims pass through them over the centuries. The century-old trees along the route, the sacred mountains, pushing man into his strongholds, and the venerated temples and shrines, providing a spiritual break for pilgrims, are all elements that define the beauty, value and aura of the Kii Peninsula. Local flora and fauna add the finishing touch to the experience. An example is the Iseji Road, which follows the east coast of the peninsula between Ise-Jingu Shrine and Kumano Sanzan, offering hikers round stone paved sections, mountains, bamboo forests, terraced fields and beaches. A real treat for the senses.
Immaterial experience
Beyond the natural and tangible heritage, the Kii Peninsula abounds in intangible heritage. UNESCO was not mistaken in describing the Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples of the Kii Mountains, and their associated rituals, as exceptional testimonies to the development of a Japanese religious culture over more than a thousand years. Travellers, who travel this part of Kansai to take advantage of the pilgrimage routes, discover the richness of the country's culture. In Koyasan, for example, visitors can experience the fire ceremony, gomataki, an often intimate ceremony in which a monk, to the sound of sutras, burns votive plaques. It is a striking, even mesmerizing experience. You have to get up very early, as the ceremonies can start as early as 6am. Buddhist ceremonies in temples, known as o-tsutomas, are also part of this immaterial culture. Every day, the high priest and the monks chant Buddhist sutras in the main hall of the monastery. This is an integral part of the pleasure experienced by visitors who come to the area to discover the pilgrimage routes of Kumano. Many monasteries in this region open their doors for an overnight stay or two. They are called shukubo. Originally, they were simple lodgings for itinerant monks, but during the Edo period, the number of these lodgings increased due to the growing number of pilgrims. This is the occasion to taste the shojin-ryori, the vegetarian cuisine of the monks, who condemn the sacrifice of any form of life endowed with a conscience. The intangible heritage of gastronomy is thus an integral part of the richness of the Kii's sacred paths, which truly link nature, religion, faith, art and culture. It is a place of unity between man and nature. And then, once the shoes are off, the visitor won't sulk at the pleasure of slipping into one of the many onsen, these hot springs, which can be found in the famous cities of Kawayu, Yunomine or Katsuura.
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