Kambos is one of the main villages on the island of Patmos. Situated in the hills north of Skala, the quiet village is the agricultural heart of the island. A handful of vacation homes are available for rent. On the church square, a few cafés and tavernas welcome the locals. These include the Panagos tavern, which serves good traditional cuisine from morning to night (+30 22470 031570), and the friendly Aroma Café, which enjoys pleasant fresh air during the day (+30 22470 31402). Tourists prefer to head lower down to Kambos Bay, which boasts a long, organized beach lined with tavernas and offering all kinds of water sports activities. The shaded beach is also equipped with deckchairs and parasols, making it ideal for families. It is, however, far less pretty than the other wild beaches and coves to the north. After forty years of loyal service, the legendary beach bar George's Place has closed its doors: in its place, the (too) trendy Atmos Patmos opened in 2021 (www.atmospatmos.com). Lefkes Bay is also easily accessible from Kambos, at the end of a side road that branches off to the west coast before entering the village. Although not ideal for swimming, it offers the most beautiful sunset in the region. We sit down at the seasonal straw hut with a beer and fried fish for an aperitif.

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