On the west end of Hagen, passing a small bridge, we arrive on a road called Wurup Kaip Road. Asphalted, this road is probably one of the best in the country. It runs along coffee fields and gardens and crosses several villages in idyllic gardens of gardens and mountains. Then we run parallel to the Highlands Highway.Here, houses, gardens, coffee are perfectly maintained and everything breathes calm, which changes pleasantly from Hagen. The inhabitants of the important tribe of the Moge have a reputation for being peaceful and working. The churches are very influential in this region, which may contribute to the atmosphere of peace that prevails there… We are soon in front of a church, then a school run by the Catholic Church, again in excellent state. Just after, a great mausoleum houses the burial of a very influential local Catholic priest, who was a member of the region in the 1990 s. During the five years of his term, he did more for the region than most papous politicians do in a life. He was the one who built the asphalt road in perfect condition and electrified all the villages in the vicinity. Unfortunately, a disease prevailed before he could apply for a second term.Next to the village of Tokua, just outside the SDA church where the village elders organize a very interesting guided tour on the path of the ancestors. Visitors are welcomed by residents in traditional attire and then walk through houses and gardens to discover the traditional food and technical techniques and then ancient sacred rites. Finally, they attend a Moka preparation ceremony, the great Melpa exchange ceremony. All of this has kept a happy side, which, together with the kindness and sincerity of the hosts, is the best guarantee of having an excellent moment.A little further on the road, a sign indicates a cultural center. Here the villagers organize Mudmen dances, imitating those of the Mudmen Mudmen of Goroka. Although it is only a pure invention for tourists, this represents a great opportunity for those who would not have had the chance to pass through Goroka to see these famous masked dances.Finally, five minutes away, in the last village of this route, the village of Kaip, Nicolas Wama (+675 728 3352) also organized a small tour for visitors, also very interesting. After crossing a few gardens, we arrive at first sculptures representing a Moka ceremony. A few meters further is represented a scene of mourning, then a traditional trap to birds of paradise. ❍ The visit ends with a Spirit dance. These dances, which, it must be said, are not very exciting, tell us much about the region's past. They were practiced by men in secret places of the surrounding jungle, during wars or serious problems affecting the village. These «singsing» were accompanied by sacrifice of pigs in honor of the village's spirits, so that they protected warriors, made crops abundant or prevented disease. All this walk takes place in a site deemed to be very safe and, although it is always more interesting and prudent to be accompanied by a local guide, it is possible to do it alone by taking a PMV in the city center. Just ask for the buses that serve the Wurup Road. One go to Tokua costs 2 kinas. Call organizers the day before (your hotel will be able to do so for you if necessary), to give them time to prepare or plan for transportation. The dancing ceremony should not cost more than 50 kinas, but it is necessary to have all these details confirmed before leaving.

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