One of Indonesia's two whaling villages, and the last to make a living from it, Lamalera is built around one of the coast's few beaches, essential for beaching whaleboats during the fishing season. In fact, it's several villages side by side. Here, people fish to feed the village, but this tradition is losing ground with the younger generation. Motorized craft are unknown here, apart from a few smoky walnut shells and, from time to time, a cruise liner that stops off in this remote corner on its round-the-world trip for a bit of exoticism.

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