Sydney CBD and The Rocks
Sydney CBD. Located in the heart of Sydney, the Central Business District (CBD), also known as the City, is first and foremost the city's business district. Although most of its offices are housed in huge glass towers built in the 1970s, you'll be surprised to find many 19th-century buildings all along George Street, the main thoroughfare. Indeed, after The Rocks, this district is built on the first stones laid by the colonists. Taking the time to stroll along the main avenues opens your eyes to Sydney's history. When you reach Martin Place, you'll see buildings like the GPO (the former General Post Office, now a financial, tourist and hotel complex) and, a little further on, Saint James Church. Nearby Macquarie Street alone is home to a number of colonial buildings you won't want to miss. Hyde Park, a large green space in the middle of the city, offers a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle. In addition to the Queen Victoria Building (QVB), dating from 1898, the City's major shopping venues include the Westfield Shopping Centre, surrounded by the Mayer and David Jones stores.
The Rocks. This craggy district, at the northern end of George Street and bordering Circular Quay, holds much of the city's and the country's past. The land on which it is built was once home to the Cadigal Aborigines. Then, in 1788, this rocky promontory became home to the first settlers. It became a poor, working-class district in the early 19th century, and was almost razed to the ground on several occasions: during the bubonic plague epidemic of 1900, when the Harbour Bridge was built in 1923-1932, and under pressure from City developers in the early 1970s (when it was the scene of numerous demonstrations and major scuffles). A working-class and immigrant district until some forty years ago, it has gradually given way to a sort of small town echoing its long and colorful past. Many restaurants, pubs and boutiques are established here, and strolling through its cobbled streets is now akin to discovering a little Montmartre. You can visit the Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA), the Rocks Discovery Museum, the Sydney Observatory, the Susannah Place Museum and the Harbour Bridge.
Circular Quay. Located on the edge of Sydney Cove, between the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, Circular Quay is the main ferry terminal. It's also home to the city's bus terminus and the railway station of the same name. Come to Circular Quay to visit the Opera House, stroll along and watch the boats come and go, have a drink or dine and, of course, embark to explore the bay, visit Manly, Taronga Zoo or other destinations. Don't miss the Overseas Passenger Terminal on The Rocks, with its many stores and restaurants, and Cadmans Cottage. Behind Opera House, the Royal Botanic Garden and The Domain (home to the Art Gallery of New South Wales) lie between the City and Woolloomooloo.
Chinatown. Located south of the City, close to Central Station and Paddy's Markets, Chinatown stretches along both sides of Dixon Street, within the Haymarket district (Goulburn Street, Sussex Street, Hay Street, Harbour Street). After successively occupying part of The Rocks at the end of the 19th century and the area around Market Street, Sydney's Chinatown has occupied this area since 1920. There are numerous stores, stalls and restaurants within a relatively small area (the distance between the two Chinese doors on Dixon Street is no more than 150 meters). In recent decades, new satellite Chinatowns have emerged in suburbs such as Ashfield, Eastwood, Hurstville, Parramatta, Burwood, Flemington and Chatswood.
Darling Harbour. Located on the western side of the City, Darling Harbour, which includes Cockle Bay Wharf, King Street Wharf and Harbourside (a large shopping mall), is one of the highlights of any visit to Sydney. Before settlers arrived, the Cadigal Aborigines called this place Tumbalong. The seafood they found and fed on here was so abundant that discarded shells formed high mounds. It was by using these crushed shells as lime that the settlers consolidated their homes. A major commercial port in the 19th century, by the end of the 20th Darling Harbour had become a neglected industrial site with empty warehouses. Completely redeveloped from the mid-1980s onwards, the area is now a prime location for strolling and leisure activities. Exclusively pedestrianized, it can be explored at any time of day or night. Among the attractions are the Sydney Aquarium (Sea Life), Madame Tussauds Wax Museum and Wildlife Sydney Zoo (all three grouped together), as well as the Australian Maritime Museum. The western part of Darling Harbour belongs to the Pyrmont district, which you'll have to cross to get to the Fish Market. The Pyrmont Bridge dates back to 1902, and was the first bridge to open horizontally to allow boats to pass. The northern part of the wharves (Barangaroo) has been completely redeveloped, and while the city has long resisted the onslaught of property developers, Darling Harbour is now the target of new construction, with the brand-new Sofitel overlooking the harbor, for example.
Barangaroo. Barangaroo is a new suburb built on the remnants of the industrial port area that once stretched west of The Rocks and Harbour Bridge. The new Barangaroo urban area stretches from Millers Point to King Street Wharf, with three distinct zones: Barangaroo Reserve, Central Barangaroo and Barangaroo South. Barangaroo Reserve, in the far north, was inaugurated in 2015 and is now a large urban park popular with joggers. The Streets of Barangaroo adjoining King Street Wharf is now Sydney's international culinary scene. Wulugul Walk, which continues on to The Promenade (King Street Wharf), is a must-see walk from Barangaroo Reserve along the harbour to Darling Harbour. The subway station is now open, linking the city center or North Sydney directly.
Eastern neighbourhoods
Woolloomooloo. Woolloomooloo lies between The Domain and The Royal Botanic Garden to the west, Potts Point to the south and the Royal Australian Navy base to the north. This tiny district overlooks Woolloomooloo Bay. It includes Wharfside West, with its many luxury apartments, and Finger Wharf, home to a huge 410-metre-long wooden structure built in 1915. Once used to house wool stocks prior to export, the complex was completely renovated and transformed into a tourist complex in the 1990s. It's a pleasant place to enjoy a drink or a bite to eat by the water.
Potts Point. With Woolloomooloo Bay to the west, Elizabeth Bay to the east and Darlinghurst/Kings Cross to the south, Potts Point is divided into two parts with radically different atmospheres. At the northern tip, the district is home to magnificent colonial and Art Deco houses, as well as the Australian Navy base. From this end, Victoria Street climbs gently southwards, offering plenty of backpacker accommodation at its mid-point, before leading into Darlinghurst Road. This, the liveliest street, opens onto another world, that of Kings Cross.
Kings Cross. If a few years ago Kings Cross was the dangerous part of Sydney to avoid, today it's a popular area with many bars, restaurants, cafés and a bevy of backpackers. It still has a local Pigalle atmosphere, with sex shops and adult entertainment venues. At dusk, it's the meeting point for revelers invading Darlinghurst Road, whose lively section stretches for less than 500 meters before leading into Mackleay Street. The gigantic sign for the famous soda brand can serve as a landmark in this neighborhood.
Darlinghurst. Darlinghurst lies immediately to the east of Hyde Park. It is surrounded from north to south by Woolloomooloo, Potts Point, Rushcutters Bay, Paddington and Surry Hills. Darlinghurst, which used to be a rather poorly-frequented and insalubrious area, underwent major renovation in the 1980s. It's now a rather chic, cosmopolitan and diverse area, especially along Victoria Street and Darlinghurst Road, both from Kings Cross. There are plenty of stores, cafés and restaurants. Darlinghurst's main thoroughfare, however, is Oxford Street, well known as the center of Sydney's gay community, especially around Taylor Square and bordering Paddington. Darlinghurst is also home to the Sydney Jewish Museum and Darlinghurst Courthouse.
Paddington. Paddington lies to the east of Darlinghurst. Built in the 1840s, the village was originally intended for workers employed in the construction of Victoria Barracks. Today, the area boasts a distinctive ambience and charm, with low Victorian houses and charming terraces dating from the late 19th/early 20th century. Remnants of the old village are still visible, for example in the area between Shadforth, Prospect and Spring Streets (a must-see). Taylor Square, near the western entrance to Paddington, has been a stronghold of the gay community since the 1970s. Its extension onto Oxford Street also associates Paddington with a number of gay-friendly establishments and the traditional Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras in February. But Paddington is also known as a mecca for fashion and design. Oxford Street is almost entirely lined with designer and artist boutiques, clothing stores, antique shops, cafés and restaurants. On the way past Victoria Barracks, don't miss Paddington Reservoir Gardens. Heading towards Centennial Park, it's possible to branch off into the upmarket Woollahra district, where Queen Street is also renowned for its network of antique, art and jewelry shops. South of Paddington lie the Sydney Football Stadium, Sydney Cricket Ground and Fox Studios. To really get to grips with the area, take a stroll under the trees along Selwyn Street from Oxford Street and enjoy a coffee on the terrace at Morris.
Centennial Park. Accessible via its Oxford Street entrance, this park was inaugurated in 1888 to mark the colony's centenary. It was also the site of the inauguration of the Australian federation in 1901. With a surface area of 220 hectares, it receives 3.6 million visitors a year.
Elizabeth Bay. One of the smallest bays in Sydney's eastern suburbs. It's mainly reached by strolling from Kings Cross and El Alamein Fountain along steep, stair-steeped streets. Stop off at Elizabeth Bay House, set back and high up, for a superb view from the stoop. You can go to the water's edge for a coffee, but you can't reach Rushcutters Bay by walking along the shore.
Rushcutters Bay. In this small bay that follows Elizabeth Bay, there are countless pleasure boats moored in the marina or parked in front of their billionaire owners' homes. Several parks, frequented at weekends by walkers and strollers, encircle this pretty bay. The pace is calm and life seems to revolve around the boats, green spaces, restaurants and cafés. At the northeast end, Darling Point, formerly known as Blackburn Cove, boasts a ferry dock. It was here that the reeds used to thatch the colony's roofs were cut, hence the name Rushcutters Bay.
Double Bay. Double Bay lies between Rushcutters Bay and Rose Bay. In the early days of settlement, it was known by the varied names of Dlendgulla, Keltie Bay and Blackburn Bay. This cosmopolitan suburb with its Mediterranean village atmosphere is the vital center of chic shopping. The expression "Double Bay Double Pay" is often used, as everything here is twice as expensive as anywhere else in Sydney, from restaurants and cafés to high-end boutiques. It's a little like the Beverly Hills of Los Angeles. Like Rushcutters, Double Bay is essentially a mooring area for private boats. It does, however, boast a beautiful beach on its eastern side. A dock is dedicated to ferry services.
Bondi. Bondi lies about 7.5 km east of Sydney city center. Its beach, Bondi Beach, is one of the most famous in the world. Almost a kilometer long, the crescent-shaped beach is framed at either end by two rocky promontories. You're more likely to meet travelers from all over the world than Australians. The atmosphere is a little overrated, but you'll feel right at home here, as if you're on vacation all the time. There is a supervised swimming area and a dedicated surfing zone. Be careful, though, as the currents are strong in some places. The town's streets are lined with surf stores, diving clubs, backpacker hotels, cafés and restaurants. Major events take place throughout the year, such as Flickerfest, the international short film festival in January; World Environment Day in June; Festival of the Winds, Australia's largest kite festival, in September; Sculptures by the Sea, in October/November...
Rose Bay. Around 7 km from the center of Sydney, close to the Heads, Rose Bay is home to a transshipment dock for ferries from Circular Quay. Here you can see seaplanes coming and going to visit Sydney by air, just as they did in the late 1930s, when international companies operated right here. In 1938, Rose Bay became Sydney's first international airport. The original terminal has now been transformed into a magnificent restaurant where it's a pleasure to dine. Rose Bay and Watsons Bay can be reached via a coastal path and through the luxury residential neighborhoods of
Watsons Bay. Watsons Bay lies 11 km northeast of Sydney city center. It's the last bay before South Head. The first fishing village was established here in 1788. From the wharf, you can walk to South Head and The Gap.
South Head. This beautiful coastal reserve perched on the southern edge of Sydney Harbour offers incredible views of the harbour. It's the perfect place for a day trip. The Gap, a magnificent cliff overlooking the ocean, is one of the most popular sites.
Coogee and La Pérouse. Coogee beach, although very popular with families, is much less crowded than Bondi. Coogee is about an hour's walk south of Bondi on acoastal walk, offering superb sea views. Further south is La Pérouse Point, named after the French explorer Jean-François de La Pérouse, who reached Botany Bay on January 26, 1788.
West and south districts
Glebe. Eclectic, arty and bohemian, Glebe stretches from Sydney University north to Broadway. Pubs abound, each with its own style. These artists' gatherings and the Saturday street market punctuate the weeks of this small town that loves and cares for its inhabitants. The main thoroughfare is Glebe Point Road, reputed to be one of the best places to dine in Sydney, with a variety ranging from high-end establishments to more modest, affordable restaurants.
Newtown. Newton is an old Sydney suburb whose development dates back to the early 1800's. King Street was once the route used by Sydneysiders to travel to the southern farmlands. Convict laborers worked hard for the privileged classes. It was between 1870 and the early 1920s that the neighborhood developed, with numerous housing projects and the construction of impressive stores along the main street. Workers were housed in terraced houses, many of which can still be seen today. Then the district gradually sank into poverty and violence, culminating here in the 1960s. Its location close to the City and the University eventually attracted investors, and property prices drove out the undesirables. Along with Kings Cross, however, the area remains a favorite haunt of the marginalized and drug addicts. Traffic on the main street, City Road (also known as King Street or Princes Highway, depending on the stretch), is heavy and parking is difficult.
Balmain. Opposite Darling Harbour, in the city's western suburbs, Balmain and Balmain East occupy a peninsula that extends well into the harbour. In the 1900s, shipbuilding and ship repair were the main industries here. Later, bohemians - mainly writers, artists and academics - moved in, joined from the 1970s onwards by young executives wishing to stay close to the City while benefiting from lower rents. Today, Balmain East is essentially residential, with several beautifully restored houses, a small shopping center and a few pubs. Darling Street, the main thoroughfare running west to east through Balmain East and Balmain, is home to most of the restaurants, cafés, stores and boutiques. These are mainly booksellers, bric-a-brac, clothing and antiques dealers.
Surry Hills. Located immediately southeast of the CBD, Surry Hills is surrounded by Chippendale and Haymarket to the west, Moore Park and Paddington to the east, Redfern to the south and Darlinghurst to the north. A dynamic district popular with artists and young entrepreneurs, it reflects the city's dynamism and is undergoing significant expansion due to its proximity to the city center. Both chic and bohemian, it's a popular place to dine with friends. Stroll along its wooded streets, past Victorian residences, art galleries and art deco boutiques, before stopping off at a café or retro bobo restaurant.
Ultimo and Chippendale. These two districts lie to the west of Darling Harbour and to the south of Pyrmont. They are essentially residential areas, with a few convenience stores and shopping malls scattered around. You'll pass through them on your way south to Glebe or Sydney University.
South Sydney. Beyond Surry Hills, a succession of suburbs lead to Mascot International Airport and Botany Bay. From Darlington to Rosebery via Alexandria, Waterloo, Zetland and Beaconsfield, you'll see all the factories replaced by residential areas being built to accommodate Sydney's growing population.
North Shore and Northern Beaches
Beyond Harbour Bridge lies another Sydney. Here, the pace is less hectic, the grass greener, the beaches calmer, but the scenery as splendid as ever. In the early days of the colony, Lower North Shore was used as a cemetery to ward off epidemics. Today, from Kirribilli to Mosman, Port Jackson's North Shore is home to some of Australia's most exclusive neighborhoods and suburbs. The Victoria Cross metro station is due to open in 2024, if work is completed on schedule. The metro will link Victoria Cross to Barangaroo in 3 minutes and to Central Station in 9 minutes.
Kirribilli and Milsons Point. While walking across Harbour Bridge, take the time to visit Kirribilli and discover its small residential streets and views over the bay. A number of interesting restaurants and pubs are within easy reach of the bridge. Bordering Kirribilli, Milsons Point's main attraction is Luna Park. Sports enthusiasts will particularly appreciate the North Sydney Olympic Pool, a superb open-air swimming pool (currently closed for renovation, due to reopen mid-2024).
Mosman. Mosman is located 8 kilometers northeast of Sydney. This chic, livable suburb (home to many French expatriates) owes its name to two brothers, Archibald and George Mosman, who settled in the area in 1831. A chic suburb par excellence, Mosman boasts pleasant beaches, including Balmoral Beach. Mosman is also home to the famous Taronga Zoo, easily reached by ferry from Circular Quay. Finally, from Spit Bridge, there's a lovely 10 km coastal walk from Mosman to Manly.
Manly. Manly, 11 km northeast of Sydney, is a lively seaside town with a beautiful natural setting and easy ferry access from Circular Quay. The main beach, Manly Beach, stretches for almost 2.5 km and is divided into three sections: South Steyne, North Steyne and Queenscliff.
The town takes its name from Captain Arthur Phillip who, in 1788, while exploring Port Jackson, was greatly impressed by the confidence of the Aborigines who had joined him and sailed alongside him. As a result, he named the place Manly, which means "manly". People come to Manly for its sand, the relaxed atmosphere of its streets, restaurants and cafés, and for the beautiful walks in the surrounding area, particularly at North Head, from where the view over Sydney is exceptional.
Northern Beaches. Northern Beaches is the name given to the beaches stretching along almost 30 km of coastline between Manly and Palm Beach. These beaches are Freshwater, Curl Curl Beach (4 km from Manly Beach), Dee Why Beach (6 km), Collaroy and Narrabeen Beaches (11.6 km), Mona Vale Beach (15 km), Betty Beach (18 km), Newport Beach (20 km), Avalon Beach (22 km), Whale Beach (26 km), Palm Beach (28 km).