MEGALO KASTRO

On a rocky peak 255 m above Horio, the fortress of the ancient capital, known as Paleohora, dominates the valley and bay of Pothea. The walls encircle the ruins of the fortified city over an area of around 3 hectares, where up to 1,000 Kalymniotes lived at the height of the medieval city's prosperity. Traces of human occupation date back to Neolithic times, but the first fortifications were erected in Byzantine times, around the ^11th century. They were later enlarged and reinforced by the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, when they settled here in the ^15th century, and throughout their occupation of Kalymnos. The Ottomans moved in after the defeat of the Knights, but the town was gradually abandoned around the ^18th century for the village of Horio below. Indeed, pirate raids became less frequent and the population could no longer be contained within these walls, which had become too narrow.

The ruins remain, majestic: today, you have to climb 235 steps to reach them. Make sure you bring sun and water protection. You'll be amply rewarded for this effort, as the kastro offers a splendid view of the surrounding area and a timeless atmosphere. Wander among the remains of one- and two-storey medieval houses and visit the few churches that have been preserved, around ten in all, adorned with beautiful post-Byzantine wall frescoes. What a unique experience to climb here at sunrise or sunset!