GANDAN MONASTERY

It is the largest monastery in Mongolia and therefore inevitably one of the must-see sites in Ulaanbaatar. Built from 1810 on the initiative of the^4th Bogd Khan, the monastery of Gandantegchenling (abbreviated Gandan), was originally located in the center of Ulaanbaatar, before being moved permanently to the current location in 1838 by the^5th Bogd Khan. Its construction was developed in several phases. The first completed temple was Vajradhara (1840-1841) in the northeast of the small compound, followed by Züu Temple (1869), Didan Lavran (completed in 1904) and the largest, Mejid Janraiseg (built in 1911-1912).
Like all the monasteries in the country, Gandan suffered from the religious repression of the late 1930s, but it remained active almost continuously, making it the only active temple at that time. However, it did not escape partial destruction and underwent several renovations and reconstructions in the early 1990s.

Janraiseg Temple

. The most visited temple of the complex is that of Janraiseg. It is the largest (42 m). It is located opposite the southern entrance. It shelters an imposing copper statue of 26 m height. This statue is recent: it was installed in the temple only in 1996 thanks to Japanese and Nepalese donations. It replaces the original statue, sculpted in bronze and gold by order of the Bogd Khan in 1911, but destroyed by the Russians in 1937, and sent in pieces to Leningrad, where it was melted down to allow the reuse of the precious metal. Consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1996, the new statue is adorned with precious stones and contains 27 tons of medicinal herbs, hundreds of sutras (religious books), as well as a large number of fabrics covered with mantras (Buddhist formulas). The inner walls of the temple are lined with a multitude of small statues representing Ayush, the Buddha of longevity.

A monastery in the heart of the monastery

. When one enters the monastery through the south gate, one sees on the right five enclosed buildings. They are surrounded by a wall painted in yellow. Here is the famous Buddhist library. Formerly used as a temple of prayer, this last one shelters not less than one million sûtras, mainly in Mongolian and Tibetan. The Vajradhara temple, the oldest one, is also installed there. It houses a statue of Vajradhara, known as the "primordial Buddha", sculpted in 1683 by Zanabazar, painter, sculptor, and first Bogd Khan of the country.
Still

within this enclosure, two small sanctuaries stand out. One is known for its typical Mongolian architecture. It is the Orchirdary Süm and the Golden Dedenpovaran Süm. A separate room, in front of the temples, hosts the traditional pharmacy, where the monks make basic consultations and prescribe herbal mixtures.

Ceremony in the morning. The religious ceremonies take place every morning in the various temples of the monastery. They attract many Mongolians, young and old, and it is definitely the best time to visit this monastery, which is the heart of Mongolian Buddhism. More than 900 monks are involved in its daily activity today. It is advisable to find a guide, especially for those who arrive in Mongolia and want a good introduction to Buddhism. Note that it is forbidden to take pictures during the ceremonies.