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THE MUSLIM QUARTER

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Jérusalem, Israel
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2024
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2024

The Muslim quarter, in the north-east of the old town, is its most populous and undoubtedly the most lively part, at least in the day: A narrow medieval narrow souk, a colourful and noisy souk where you must stick to the wall at all times to make room for a busy wagon, a busy porter or kids… As soon as the night falls, the shops close, and the agitation stops.

Just above the Wailing Wall, the Temple Mount today houses the esplanade of mosques, which Muslims call Al-Chérif, that is, «Noble Sanctuary». Very large, the esplanade is a place of relaxation that contrasts with the bustle of the streets surrounding it. Muslim families walk there, groups of young people are lying there, lying on the grass, in the shade of trees. others rub their feet at the fountain, and women, veiled, resonate among themselves… But it is also a very contentious religious site: Here was the first one, then the Second Temple, and today is one of the holiest places of the Muslim religion (3rd Holy Place of Islam after Mecca and Medina).

The site is identified, both in Jewish tradition and in Islamic tradition, such as Mount Moriah where Abraham offered his son sacrifice (Genesis 22: 1-18; Koran, surat Al-Saffat 37: 102-110). However, for the Jews, it was Isaac, while for Muslims it was Ishmael, the first son he had with a servant, whom the patriarch would have wished to sacrifice. Finally, for Muslims, Mount Moriah would also be the place where Mohammed would be seated in heaven.

In the centre of the esplanade, the Dome du Rocher, Qubbat el-Sakkhra in Arabic, was built in the th century. It is centered on "the rock", a outcrop of Mount Moriah. Originally golden, its dome was quickly diverted by endetté endetté. Initially covered with aluminium by the Gulf states, it was golden again in 1994 by King Hussein of Jordan, who would at the same time redora his coat of arms with the Palestinians. Even if it is called the "mosque of Omar", the Dome of the Rock is not really a mosque but rather a sanctuary.

Facing him is the al-Aqsa mosque. There is nothing left of the original mosque built in the th century, which was destroyed twice by earthquakes. The oldest parts of the current building date back to 1035 and 1218. But Muslims do not brag about the origin of the very beautiful columns of interior marble: they were offered by Mussolini in 1939.

Access to the Dome and Mosque is unfortunately forbidden to non-Muslims.

For these, access to the esplanade of the Mosques (free) can only be done by one of its nine doors: the door of Detritus or the Maghreb Gate, immediately to the right of the Wailing Wall. You will need to pass through a metal detector and undergo a careful search of your bag. And you will not be allowed to enter if your attire is deemed indecent.

The esplanade of the Mosques (www.noblesanctuary.com) is open in summer from Saturday to Thursday from 7 a. m. to 11 p. m. and from 13 p. m. to 15 p. m. and, in winter, from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m. and from 12 p. m. to 14 p. m. (see because the hours can change).

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se perdre dans la vieille ville de Jérusalem
très beau quartier dans la vieille ville de Jérusalem, y aller sans but précis et déambuler pour y découvrir ses beautés et ses habitants.

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