Historic centre and its surroundings
Declared a cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO in 1987, the historic centre is the result of the meeting of the Aztec and Spanish cultures. It covers nearly 10 km² (668 blocks, or cuadras in Spanish) and has 1,500 listed buildings. Even if today it is mainly the richness of the Spanish colonial past that jumps out at you when you walk through the streets of the centre, no one in Mexico has forgotten that most of the colonial buildings were built on the ruins of ancient Aztec palaces, whose stones were recycled. The ruins of the Templo Mayor, which have been uncovered on the right side of the cathedral, are a reminder to visitors of the grandeur of the old buildings.But beyond the richness of its architectural heritage (also composed of late 19th-century neoclassical trends and Art Deco buildings), Mexico City's historic centre is first and foremost the heart of popular commerce, before being a place for families to stroll around for theChilangos (inhabitants of Mexico City). Here, economic segregation is less of an issue than elsewhere, and you will meet Indian women who have just arrived from the south of the country, as well as rich politicians in armoured cars, and foreign tourists. It is especially this aspect that makes the richness of the historical center, as well as its intense political life: marchas (demonstrations) and plantones (occupations of the public places) give rhythm to the life of the district.
For the last twenty years, the historic centre has been undergoing a complete restructuring, with certain arteries closed to traffic (Calle Madero and Calle Regina). In short, the streets are more beautiful and better lit. But these developments, resulting from public/private investment agreements, have a counterpart: the tendency to a certain acculturation due to the establishment of international restaurant or ready-to-wear brands. Because what traditionally makes the charm of the historic centre, it is above all its small thematic shopping streets, packed with stalls and full of people. A real anthill.
Access: the historic centre is accessible by several metros. Hidalgo (exit in front of the Alameda garden), Bellas Artes (exit in front of the Palacio de Bellas Artes and the Latinoamericana tower), Allende (exit on Allende street), Zócalo (exit in front of the cathedral and the Government Palace), Isabel la Católica and Pino Suárez. The Revolución metro station leads to the monument of the same name; the pretty and popular Tabacalera colony is right next door. Passing Insurgentes Avenue, you will arrive at the Colonia San Rafael, which is becoming an alternative to the Colonia Roma, as well as the Colonia Santa María la Ribera, a little further north. Walking there from the surrounding neighborhoods (Bosque de Chapultepec, Zona Rosa, Roma or Condesa) is a must.
Zona Rosa and the West
Zona Rosa (in Colonia Juarez) refers to the area of Mexico City between Paseo de la Reforma, Avenida Insurgentes, Avenida Chapultepec and Calle Florencia. The triangle encloses two major streets, Hamburgo and Londres. The colonia in its current form dates back to the 1950s. When the Zona Rosa was created at the end of the 19th century, it was conceived as a very chic district, reserved for the Mexican elite and foreign diplomats. Because of its exclusive character, the district was even declared a neutral zone during the Mexican Revolution. But from the 1950s onwards, the emergence of new residential areas for the wealthier classes and the presence of the Insurgentes metro contributed to making the district more popular. Today, Zona Rosa is also renowned for its nightclubs and gay bars. The shops are less elegant than they used to be, but the area is still popular with tourists.
Colonia Juarez also stretches across Avenida Insurgentes, serving as a buffer zone to the historic center. For a long time, it was a more working-class area (even abandoned), but like many of the colonias around the city's most emblematic districts, it is currently undergoing a policy of rehabilitation (old buildings and roads) and gentrification. Avenue Bucarelli, one of the city's most beautiful residential areas in the 19th century before being abandoned, is currently being rehabilitated.
Paseo de la Reforma, the avenue that borders Zona Rosa to the north, dates back to the 19th century; it marks the boundary between the Juarez (south) and Cuauhtémoc (north) colonias . Emperor Maximilian of Habsburg had it opened to link the Palacio Nacional with his aristocratic residence at El Castillo de Chapultépec. All traffic circles are adorned with bronze statues and sculptures depicting various historical episodes. Don't miss El Angel, the symbol of the city. Paseo de la Reforma is also an important financial and economic corridor. Many international corporations have set up their headquarters here. Modern glass towers and old residences with gardens follow one another.
Polanco is Mexico City's chicest shopping district, also known as the Zona Dorada ("Golden Zone"). Here you'll find all the boutiques of the most prestigious brands. Presidente Masaryk Street is to Mexico City what the Champs-Elysées are to Paris. The parallel street, Horacio, also boasts a number of chic restaurants. Many are located around the pretty Lincoln Park, the heart of the district.
The Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City's largest green space, separates the Polanco and Condesa districts. Covering an area of almost 600 hectares, this park is home to numerous museums and tourist attractions, including the Museum of Modern Art, a busy cultural center (La Casa del Lago), a botanical garden and several lakes where you can take a boat or pedalo ride. The wood also has an interesting history. In pre-Hispanic times, the emperor Moctezuma built an ingenious hydraulic system here, bringing water down from the mountain to a kind of stone pool where he bathed. The remains of the Baños de Moctezuma still stand today. It was also here, in the 18th century, that the governors of New Spain had an imposing castle built on an elevation to serve as their resting place. With the independence of Mexico, the castle was converted into a military college. During the Second Empire, the Castillo de Chapultepec became the residence of Emperor Maximilian of Hasbourg, and subsequently continued to serve as the official residence of the Mexican head of state until 1939, when President Lázaro Cárdenas decided to move to the Los Pinos residence, before the latter was abandoned by President Andrès Manuel Lopez Obrador in 2019, to be transformed into a cultural center open to all. Alongside the Bosque de Chapultepec, Reforma Avenue is home to two major museums, el Museo Nacional de Antropologia and the Museo Tamayo (contemporary art).
Access: the district is accessible via the metro line that runs along Chapultepec Avenue (Chapultepec, Sevilla, Glorieta Insurgentes and Cuauhtémoc) or the metrobus that runs along Insurgentes Avenue (Glorieta de Insurgentes, Hamburgo, Reforma). On foot, it's easy to reach the Bosque de Chapultepec via the avenue of the same name, and the Polanco district by walking up Reforma Avenue. To get to the city center, it's easy to cross Colonia Juarez and discover this district at the same time. From Insurgentes Avenue, London, Liverpool and Hamburgo streets lead to Versalles Street, which climbs Reforma just before reaching the Alameda. From Avenida Chapultepec, walk up Avenida Bucarelli to discover the city's little-known residential architecture, leading to Avenida Reforma, just a few dozen metres from the Alameda. Polanco and Chapultepec woods are accessible by 3 metros. Auditorio and Polanco on line 7 and Chapultepec on line 1 (at one end of the La Condesa district). If you're planning to visit the woods and surrounding museums first, it's best to get off at Chapultepec or Auditorio stations; if you want to explore Polanco's stores and restaurants first, get off at Auditorio or Polanco stations.
Roma and Condesa
Separated by Avenida Insurgentes, the Roma and Condesa colonias are very popular with young Mexicans. These tree-lined neighborhoods are home to beautiful early 20th-century houses and buildings, several gardens, numerous boutiques, bars and restaurants. Although Roma and Condesa have few museums, these two colonias are well worth a visit for a stroll, a bite to eat or a drink. The atmosphere is bohemian and trendy. While La Condesa is all about style and partying (there are so many bars along Avenida Nuevo León!), La Roma is a more intellectual district, where numerous art galleries have opened in the last ten years.
The Condesa district was created around 1902 on part of the land of the hacienda de la Condesa de Miravalle. The government's idea was to install several major sports facilities there, including two racecourses and a bullring. In the 1920s, faced with a growing demand for housing, the government decided to convert the area into a residential district: following the Spanish Civil War, many Spanish refugees settled there, as well as Jews from Eastern Europe. As a result of this cultural mix, the neighborhood has never ceased to welcome foreigners coming to live in Mexico City. Even today, La Condesa is designed as a very European neighborhood, with the largest area of green space in Mexico City. After the 1985 earthquake, its appearance was transformed. Many residents fled this high-risk area (maximum danger in the event of an earthquake). Properties were sold at low prices, and intellectuals, writers and artists moved into this previously popular district of Mexico City, which is now one of the most expensive in the city, much sought-after by the foreigners who live there.
Colonia Roma also dates back to the beginning of the last century. It was the real estate company Compañía de Terrenos de la Calzada de Chapultepec SA that began subdividing and urbanizing this area in 1903. One of the members of the board of directors was Walter Orrin, owner of the Orrin Circus, which was very famous in Mexico at the time. He decided to name the streets in the new district after the towns where the circus had been most successful: Durango, Orizaba, Chihuahua, Coahuila... Another of the company's directors was architect Lewis Lamm. Inspired by the architectural styles in vogue in Europe, he built magnificent mansions to attract the wealthy classes of society, including Casa Lamm, which was destined to become his private residence. This house, which today houses a cultural center, is considered one of Colonia Roma's most emblematic buildings. The district is divided into two zones, Roma Norte and Roma Sur, the latter still retaining its more popular character than its much trendier neighbor.
Access : to get to La Condesa, get off at the Chilpancingo metro station, or at the Sonora or Campeche metrobus stations. To get to La Roma, get off at the Insurgentes metro station or at the metrobus stations between Chilpancingo and Insurgentes. It's easy to walk between these two neighborhoods, as it is to reach Avenida et Reforma and the historic center by public transport, cab or even on foot.
Coyoacán and the south
It wasin Coyoacán that Hernán Cortés established his residence after the fall of Tenochtitlán, and it was also here that, on March 7, 1524, the first town hall of New Spain was set up. At the beginning of the 20th century, the village of Coyoacán was still separated from the center of Mexico City, 12 km away, by grazing fields. In the 1950s, it was absorbed into the urban sprawl that had previously made it the home of Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsky. Coyoacán is a lively, tree-lined district. It has preserved its colonial character, particularly on Calle Francisco Sosa, where 17th- and 18th-century houses boast splendidly proportioned, colorful facades. Narrow, cobbled streets and small, shady squares contribute to making this district a haven on a human scale. Located not far from UNAM, the country's largest university, it's a district renowned for its intellectual effervescence, quite different from the arty, trendy atmosphere of the Roma and Condesa districts.
The district of San Angel (Tenanitla in pre-Hispanic times), still retains a provincial air comparable to that of Coyoacán (only much smaller), with beautiful cobbled streets and magnificent colonial mansions. The colonia is popular for its Saturday arts and crafts market (plaza del Carmen). The first to settle in Tenanitla were the Dominicans, who built a small hermitage here. Then, in 1615, the Carmelite monks began building a convent and religious college dedicated to San Angel. This religious order divided its time between penance, prayer and work, and to facilitate the spiritual recollection of its members, it was customary to build large gardens around the convents. The flowers and fruit they harvested were sold in Mexico City, 15 km away. Wealthy Spaniards began to build beautiful country houses to spend the weekend or the summer season. Even today, most of San Angel's festivities have their origins in the horticultural activities of the Carmelite monks, such as the Feria de Las Flores, celebrated every year in July.
Tlalpan was once a village outside Mexico City, in the same way as Coyoacán and San Angel. Located some twenty kilometers from the historic center, it was swallowed up by the city in the 1950s. The village developed in the 17th century, when the aristocracy of New Spain began to build magnificent mansions in the area to spend the summer season. The village became known as Villa de San Agustin de Las Cuevas. When Mexico gained its independence in the early 19th century, the village was designated the capital of the State of Mexico, leading to the construction of imposing public buildings. However, Tlalpan only retained this title for a short time, and soon reverted to being a small country village. Stroll along its narrow cobbled streets and you'll come across a shady square with a kiosk.
The Xochimilco district, which in the Náhuatl language means "place where flowers grow", is a must-see. Nicknamed "Mexican Venice", it's one of the few places in Mexico City where the lake that once stretched across the Mexico Valley has survived, and with it the chinampas, the artificial floating islets that the Mexica and Xochimilca civilizations built for farming. Although the chinampas are still used for agricultural purposes today, Xochimilco's canals have become one of the city's main tourist attractions. Every day, thousands of multicolored boats, known as " trajineras ", await the arrival of tourists for a pleasant trip along the canals. The stroll is punctuated by the many music groups waiting in their boats for someone to signal them to play a tune, and the shouts of street vendors offering a whole range of products: food, crafts, flowers... A totally surreal place to discover, and in danger of disappearing due to the hydraulic reduction and general pollution of the Xochimilco-Tlahuac-Milpa Alta lake zone.
Access: Coyoacán is surrounded by three metro stations: Coyoacán, Viveros, Miguel Angel de Quevedo (line 3). If you'd like to visit the lovely Viveros park, get off at the metro station of the same name; from there, walk to the center via Calle Francisco Sosa and the pretty Plaza Santa Catarina. Ditto from the Miguel Angel de Quevedo metro station; another option is to walk down Avenida Miguel Angel de Quevedo, then turn left into Calle Tres Cruces or Calle Carrillo Puerto (or take one of the buses indicating Tasqueña and ask the driver to get you off at the corner of one of them). To get to San Angel, get off at the Miguel Angel de Quevedo metro station and walk to Avenida Insurgentes, then take Calle La Paz. After crossing Avenida Revolución, you'll come to Plaza del Carmen and Plaza San Jacinto. Alternatively, take the Metrobus line down Insurgentes Avenue and get off at Bombilla station. San Angel is quite close to Coyoacán. You can easily plan to visit both neighborhoods in the same day. For the more southerly districts, take the streetcar from Taxqueña metro station (line 2). To visit Xochimilco's most popular floating gardens, get off at Xochimilco station. Boatmen will guide you to the piers. To get to the center of Tlalpan, get off at Huipulco station and take a cab, or take the metrobus line that runs along Avenida Insurgentes to the south of the city (Fuentes Brotantes station).