The Loire is full of surprises, with natural landscapes left untouched, majestic châteaux and towns where it's good to put down your suitcases and go back in time. Among them is Saumur, sub-prefecture of the Maine-et-Loire region. The imposing silhouette of its castle overlooking the river often catches the eye of train passengers heading for Nantes or the opposite direction, Paris. But it's worth taking the time to stop in this town with so much to offer. A city center typical of the Loire region, bucolic landscapes, good wine, atypical museums and remarkable troglodyte sites. Discover the 15 must-sees and must-visit sites for your Saumur getaway.
1. The Château de Saumur, a medieval and Renaissance marvel
The Château de Saumur dominates the Loire River from its rocky outcrop. Formerly the residence of the Dukes of Anjou in the 14th and 15th centuries, it was also used as a prison and arms and munitions depot. Owned by the town since 1906, it has been carefully restored to its former glory. A visit to the building is a must during your stay in Saumur, not only for its incredible view over the Loire, but also because it houses the Musée Municipal and the Musée du Cheval, with its varied collections of decorative arts, fine arts, archaeology and one of the finest collections of earthenware in France.
2. Downtown Saumur, a medieval stroll
Saumur boasts a charming historic center that's not to be missed. It's easy to visit on foot, with a majority of pedestrian zones. You'll discover some lovely tuffeau and timber-framed houses. No problem, this is the Loire Valley! Many of the winding lanes have retained their medieval layout. Head to Rue Saint-Jean for a peek at the store windows, before stopping off at the beautiful Place Saint-Pierre. Here, take time to visit the eponymous church, a representative example of the Plantagenet Gothic style. A tip for a fun family day out in Saumur: download the free Baludik app to discover some of the town's little secrets via a treasure hunt.
3. Chapelle Notre-Dame des Ardilliers, a remarkable building
One of Saumur's distinctive features is its majestic buildings, proudly overlooking the Loire. There's the château, of course, but also the incredible Notre-Dame des Ardilliers chapel, one of the most prestigious 17th-century monumental ensembles in the Loire Valley. It owes its origins to the discovery of a Pietà near a spring reputed to be a healer. This made it one of the main places of pilgrimage to the Virgin Mary in the 16th and 17th centuries. The tour takes in the Oratorian house, rotunda, nave and choir. The building's distinguishing feature is its imposing classical rotunda, which was the largest dome in France before the construction of the Invalides.
4. A horse-drawn carriage ride through the vineyards
Visitors to the Saumur tourist office can take the opportunity to find out more about horse-drawn carriage rides. Saumur has a strong link with the horse world. The Écuries de Saint-Nicolas offer carriage rides along the vineyard paths of the Saumur-Champigny Appellation. It's a great opportunity to enjoy the Saumur countryside and learn all about winegrowing know-how. The tour includes cellar tastings and a return trip along the sublime banks of the Loire.
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5. The Musée du Champignon, an astonishing place
Through galleries dug into the tufa rock, the Mushroom Museumhouses Europe's largest collection of mushrooms! Here you can discover the secrets of cultivating different varieties. The museum is home to over 250 species of wild mushrooms, and no less than 10 tonnes of mushrooms are harvested each year. What's more, the museum is also an incredible troglodyte site, with a surprising and mysterious atmosphere. A place to discover with the whole family, with an educational workshop for the young est and a range of explanatory details for the most curious.
6. Le Cadre Noir, the equestrian Saumur
Saumur is the equestrian capital of France. It is home to the Cadre Noir, a national school where talented teachers teach horsemanship the French way. This prestigious institution has been on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2011. Le Cadre Noir offers tours, including backstage visits, the main riding arena, the saddlery and the stables. And let's not forget the galas, original creations where the grace of horsemanship is sublimated by marvellous sets, music and other staging. One of the finest experiences to be had in Saumur. In the former stables, the Musée de la Cavalerie traces the history of French cavalry since 1445.
7. La boule de fort, a traditional Loire Valley boule game
Boule de fort is a traditional sport in the Loire Valley. Petanque enthusiasts are always keen to discover this activity, which also involves getting close to a cochonnet. But beware, the mission is made a little more difficult, as the corm-wood and iron-rimmed boules have a concave "weak" side and a convex "strong" side. It's also worth noting that the pitch is curved on the sides and in slippers! In Saumur, associations such as Cercle de la Ville and La Société La Cure offer boule de fort demonstrations and initiations to groups.
8. Troglodytic sites, unusual visits
A stay in Saumur is an opportunity to visit some of the finest troglodytic sites in the Loire Valley. Around town, the Maisons Troglodytes de Forges is the largest privately-owned troglodytic dwelling site open to the public in Maine-et-Loire. It's the perfect place to discover two courtyards and a host of authentic pieces of rural peasant life. You can also meander between the chimneys and the free-roaming animals. Another option is to go to Turquant to meet the craftsmen and stroll through the Métiers d'Art store in a troglodytic site that has been restored with the greatest care.
9. Try the local delicacies!
Gourmets beware, there are plenty of surprises in store for you in Saumur. Start by discovering fouées, oven-baked bread rolls filled with cheese, rillettes or mogettes. Delicious! As we've seen, many mushrooms are grown in Saumur's cellars. So take the time to enjoy them pan-fried or stuffed with garlic, rillettes, goat's cheese, parsley and then baked. These are the famous galipettes of Anjou! Other mouth-watering specialties include pommes tapées and crémet d'Anjou, a sweet mixture of whipped cream, stiffly beaten egg whites, vanilla, sugar and lemon.
10. Saumur wines to taste!
In the Loire Valley, Saumur is a destination for wine tourism enthusiasts. 28 million bottles of Saumur wine are produced every year. The region boasts 7 appellations: Saumur rouge, Saumur rosé, Saumur blanc, Saumur fines bulles, Saumur-Champigny, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame and coteaux de Saumur. Saumur wines can be tasted during meals in restaurants, at wine merchants or at wineries. A number of oenological experiences are on offer, including a ride in a Volkswagen Combi through vineyards and troglos.
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11. The Musée des Blindés and its vast collection
The Musée des Blindés in Saumur boasts a vast collection of 800 tanks and other military vehicles. 250 military vehicles from the First and Second World Wars to the present day are on display to the public. They come from France, Germany, England, the USA and Russia. The museum has 12 exhibition rooms, and along the way, frescoes, explanatory panels, mannequins in period costumes, accessories and other weapons of war complete the collection. A place that plunges us into history and reveals the evolution of techniques.
13. Les Jardins du Puygirault, a beautiful natural setting
Open from April to October, the Jardins du Puygirault invite you to discover magnificent gardens and vegetable patches featuring over 1,000 different species of vegetables and plants. There are 14 gardens, with themes such as the medicinal garden, the medieval vegetable garden, the antique garden and the indoor garden. And because we're in Saumur, one of the gardens is laid out as a troglodyte! The educational tour traces the evolution of vegetable gardens since man first cultivated the land. A wonderful place to discover with the whole family. Les Jardins du Puygirault has been awarded the "Remarkable Garden" label.
14. A ride on a toue on the Loire River
One of Saumur's finest experiences is to climb aboard a traditional toue cabanée. These boats, typical of the Loire, cruise the river, offering visitors a wonderful moment of observation. You'll pass by the Ile d'Offard, one of the Loire's largest inhabited islands. Take time to observe the fauna, flora and emblematic monuments of Saumur. Various types of walk are available. They can be accompanied by a tasting of local products. Some packages even include a weekend cruise with breakfast and a visit to a wine cellar.
15. The Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, a jewel of our heritage
When on vacation in Saumur, it's essential to visit one of the greatest monastic cities inherited from the Middle Ages. Founded in 1101, the 14-hectareRoyal Abbey of Fontevraud was home to four priories and 800 monks and nuns in its heyday. The three remaining priories were converted into prisons under Napoleon, and the site is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with an outstanding collection of churches, cloisters and dormitories. Beyond the splendor of its ancient stones, the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud houses a museum of modern art, a 4-star hotel and a gourmet restaurant.
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Where to stay in Saumur?
With its magnificent heritage, vineyards, troglodytes and picturesque location on the banks of the Loire, Saumur has a number of hotels to welcome visitors wishing to enjoy its splendors.
- The Hôtel Saint-Pierre, for a high-end experience
Dating back to the 17th century, this is Saumur's most luxurious establishment, and you can book it right here. Some rooms are still affordable. The interior is sublime, with stone walls, fireplaces, exposed beams and beautiful fabrics. There's also a Zen room for relaxing, an atmospheric bar for aperitifs and a terrace overlooking a pretty garden.
- L'Hôtel du Parc, for the pool in fine weather
Located 5 minutes from the town center, this hotel boasts a modern facade. Inside, you'll find contemporary double rooms, suites and family rooms, which you can book in just a few clicks here. Comfort is the order of the day. There's also a bar and restaurant where you can enjoy a few meals on the premises. In fine weather, a lovely swimming pool with deckchairs lets you take a few moments to relax and soak up the sun.
- Hôtel Le Volney, ideal for cyclists
The hotel is perfectly located right in the center of town. The rooms are simple and comfortable, and the rates are very reasonable so click here to check availability! As Saumur lies along the Loire à Vélo cycle route, the hotel has been awarded the "ACCUEIL VELO" label, and provides cyclists with a closed, secure bicycle storage area. Cyclists can also wash and repair their bikes on site.
What to see in Saumur in 1 day?
If you're in Saumur for 24 hours, you can start by strolling through the town center to admire the buildings, then go to the château to enjoy the view and the two museums. Return to the city center at midday for a lunch of local specialties and a glass of Saumur-Champigny.
In the afternoon, head to the Cadre Noir to visit France's most important national riding school. The classic 1-hour tour takes in the main riding arena, the saddlery and the stables. It's an opportunity to get up close and personal with the horses. As there's still time, you can continue with a walk through the vineyards and a tasting session at one of the wineries, or discover the different species at the Musée du Champignon.
