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La surprenante yareta, plante grasse typique de l'Altiplano © hipokrat - iStockphoto.com.jpg
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The fauna of the Altiplano

This region is home to the 4 Andean camelids: the llama, the alpaca, the guanaco and the vicuna. Llamas and alpacas, contrary to popular belief, are domesticated and are not found in the wild. These two animals were venerated by the Aymara and Quechua ethnic groups. The guanacos and vicuñas are protected wild species living in their natural environment.

The llama is without a doubt one of the most emblematic Bolivian animals! It can be observed all over the Altiplano. The llama is quite thin, slender and it can reach up to 1,20 m of height. The white llama is frequently observed, but it is also found in a whole range of colors extending from white to gray, from beige to dark brown, even black. Because of its renowned resistance, it was once used as a beast of burden and its wool is still used today to make clothes for the people of the Altiplano. And don't worry, it is very rare to see one get so angry that it spits on a tourist! It is frequent to see baby llama fetuses on some stalls, at the witches' market in La Paz in particular. These fetuses are still used today as offerings to the Pachamama and for certain rituals by the Aymara and Quechua communities.

The alpaca (alpaca) looks like a huge stuffed animal. Alpacas differ from llamas in their small size -the smallest of the Andean camelids-, their more squashed snout and their longer hair. Their color varies: they are most often white, but there are also specimens with a beige, brown or black coat. This species has been domesticated for several centuries, especially for its wool, which is highly sought after and used to produce vests, sweaters, bedspreads, etc. The hucaya alpaca, which represents more than 90% of the alpaca species in Bolivia, looks a bit like a sheep, but with a more slender neck. The suri alpaca, with longer and drooping hair, is rarer. Alpacas are concentrated in the Sajama region.

The guanaco is a lively, elusive wild animal that is difficult to approach. It can measure up to 1,20 m, has long legs, pointed ears and has mostly a black or dark muzzle. A protected species, the guanaco lives in small groups, moving continuously to find food.

The vicuña (vicuña) is a protected wildlife species that can live up to 5,000 meters above sea level. It is the smallest Andean camelid (usually between 75 and 85 cm). Its renowned wool is extremely expensive (more so than cashmere!), and only certain government-approved communities are allowed to work it. Vicuñas are not allowed to approach, but you can observe them from a reasonable distance. You can easily see them in the Parque Nacional Sajama (and in the Chilean Parque Nacional Lauca, adjacent), in the Sud-Lípez and in the Apolobamba mountain range (Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Apolobamba).

The condor, the emblematic bird of the Andes, is the largest bird of prey in the world, with a wingspan of up to 3 meters. It can carry 20 kg with its talons! To observe this sacred animal, you need a little luck. It is usually seen, in order of probability, in South Luzon (towards the Uturuncu volcano), in the Apolobamba mountain range, on the slopes of the Illampu (Sorata - Royal Mountain Range), on the slopes of the Sajama volcano, on the islands of Lake Titicaca and also in the Valley of the Condors, in the south of the country, near Tarija.

Pink flamingos. One of the particularities of the Altiplano is the possibility of observing three species of flamingos simultaneously: the Chilean flamingo, the Andean flamingo and the James flamingo. The Chilean flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis) is called Tokoko here. It is about 1.05 m long and has salmon plumage turning to red, as well as black feathers. Its beak is pinkish white with a black tip. Its legs are between celestial blue and gray (or pale blue). The Andean flamingo (Phoenicoparrus andinus), also called Parina Grande and locally Chururu, is the largest (1.10 m). It has a bright pink plumage, but the posterior third of its body is covered with black plumage, while the upper part of its thorax reveals purple shades. Its beak is black, with yellow colorations. Its legs are yellow. The James flamingo or Parina Chica (Phoenicoparrus jamesi) is called here Jututu. It is the smallest, it measures only 0,90 m approximately. The color of its plumage is pink, but the posterior third of its body shows a black plumage, less vivid however than that of the Andean flamingo; the beak is less curved than in the other species and reveals yellow tints turning to orange, with a small black spot on the tip. Its legs are red.

All three species can be observed together, mainly in the Laguna Colorada, in the south of the country. A unique spectacle not to be missed, especially between September and April (highest concentration of populations between December and January, but the best month is November, the weather conditions being excellent).

Viscaches. During your trip to the Altiplano, you will most likely see these large long-tailed rodents, similar to rabbits, but with denser fur, and whose presence is guaranteed on the islands of the Salar de Uyuni and in the Parque Nacional Lauca.

The rhea (rhea americana) is the largest bird in South America, with a height of up to 1.50 meters. Similar to a small wild ostrich, it has long wings that are used to balance itself, as it does not fly. This running bird, whose maximum speed can reach 60 km/h, practices a zig-zag race to escape from predators. It can be observed in the Sajama region, more rarely in South Luzon, but also in the Pampas del Yacuma in Beni, near Rurrenabaque and around Santa Cruz.

It is no longer rare to observe foxes on the Altiplano, and paradoxically this is a pity. Indeed, the tourists have accustomed them to come to seek food when the vehicles stop, and thus unbalance the ecosystem. The species present in the region is the Magellanic fox, the largest species of fox in South America.

It ismore rare to see the armadillo, a species that has become endemic. Its carcass was once used by the Aymara and Quechua communities to make charangos, small traditional string instruments inspired by Spanish guitars.

TheAndean bear (oso andino), also called ucumari, spectacled bear or more scientifically Tremarctos ornatus, is a carnivorous mammal of the ursidae family, just like the bear or the panda. The only ursid in South America is found sparsely in the Andes, from Venezuela to the north of Argentina.

Even rarer, the Andean puma lives far from human populations, in remote areas.

The Amazon Basin and the Central Plains

The Amazon basin shelters the greatest diversity and density of fauna of the globe. From Rurrenabaque and Trinidad, many excursions will allow you to appreciate this fabulous wealth. Bolivia has a prodigious number of bird species. The Parque nacional Madidi alone has more than 1,000, which is about 11% of the world's total population! Other very good spots for birdwatching are the Pampas del Yacuma around Rurrenabaque, the Parque nacional Amboró near Samaipata, the Pantanal, the whole Beni region and the surroundings of Cochabamba. Apart from the famous condor and the flamingos, mentioned above, other species inevitably attract the attention of visitors.

The capybara or cabiai (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) is the largest of the rodents with a length of more than one meter and a weight that can reach 90 kg. This terrestrial mammal is an excellent swimmer and takes refuge in the water when predators approach. You will see it in the Parque Nacional Madidi, the Pampas del Yacuma, in the Pantanal and in the area of the Jesuit Missions.

The boto or pink dolphin of the Amazon (Inia geoffrensis) is an endemic species living in rivers. Its color is rather gray with pink tints on the abdomen, it can measure up to 2.80 m for a weight of 150 kg! With its long beak and its teeth, it can feed on big fishes that it locates with precision in the mud thanks to echolocation. This mammal can be observed in the departments of Beni, Pando and Santa Cruz.

The anaconda: this magnificent constrictor snake is not venomous, but it can clamp and choke its prey, such as large rodents (even capybaras!), small caiman, fish, turtles... It can measure up to 9 meters long! It generally lives along rivers and in swamps, where it camouflages itself to wait for its prey. Expeditions in the Pampas del Yacuma allow to approach this mythical reptile.

The three-toed sloth(Bradypus tridactylus) is a fascinating animal to observe. Known for its slowness, it lives almost exclusively in the trees and is unable to walk.

The red coati (Nasua nasua) is a small animal little known by tourists, but which never fails to amaze them! This small and mischievous mammal, about the size of a cat, has a snout with a mobile proboscis and a long ringed tail. It is an excellent climber, in particular thanks to its sharp claws. Beware !

The giant anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) is a large insectivorous mammal with a surprising body. It can measure up to 2.20 m long and weigh between 30 and 40 kg. Its long tongue allows it to catch the insects it loves.

Several species of monkeys inhabit the Amazon basin, the most frequently observed being the black-handed spider monkey (Ateles geoffroyi), a small black monkey with long arms, and the small black-topped capuchin (Sapajus apella), a diurnal primate that lives in trees.

Felines such as the puma or the jaguar are difficult to spot, but who knows... Keep your eyes open during your excursions!

The spectacled bear (Tremarctos ornatus) lives in the humid forests of the Andes. The only ursid of South America is a nocturnal animal whose natural habitat is disappearing in favor of agricultural land.

There are also many species of caiman, turtles, iguanas, snakes, peccaries and multicolored butterflies.

Finally, let's not forget the dinosaurs! Although they have been extinct for thousands of years, it is possible to contemplate very well preserved giant footprints in the Parque nacional Torotoro and the Parque Cretacico near Sucre.

Several species of toucans are present in Bolivia, but the most famous and widespread is the toco toucan (Ramphastos toco), which bewitches tourists with its long beak and its bright colors. Unfortunately, some establishments choose to keep a specimen in their garden to show it to their visitors... but cutting their wings to keep them captive..

The parrots are not left out! So the country in has several different species of macaws: the chlopteran macaw (Ara chloropterus) with a large red head and blue, green and yellow wings, the blue-throated macaw (Ara glaucogularis), with a yellow body and blue wings and head, the red macaw (Ara macao), with bright colors... Seeing them take flight is a unique experience! Smaller parrots are also present, like those of the Amazon genus.

The hoazin (Opisthocomus hoazin) is an amazing bird: it has a bluish head with red eyes and a spiky crest. It reminds a bit of the birds from the time of the dinosaurs and for good reason, it would be one of the oldest birds still existing nowadays. It is easily observable along the rivers of the Pampas del Yacuma.

You will have understood it, Bolivia constitutes a true paradise for the ornithologists!

The flora

On the high arid plateaus, with extremely low temperatures, one finds mainly dry shrubs. The "highest shrub on the planet", the quenua (not to be confused with quinoa!), grows at more than 4,500 m on the slopes of the Nevado Sajama. We will also observe the yareta (or llareta), a fat plant of the Altiplano that looks like moss stuck on big stones. In reality, the plant is as hard as rock and grows in a concentric way for several centuries. Very good fuel, it is used to heat the homes in the isolated villages of the Altiplano. On the islands of the Salar de Uyuni, the presence of cactus contrasts with the expanse of white as far as the eye can see, the salt resembling a snowy coat.

Descending from the highlands, forests are still scarce, but we can observe the appearance of cactus species, such as the Puya Raimondi, thorny shrubs and gatherings of eucalyptus.

The vegetation of the temperate valleys evokes the landscapes of the Mediterranean basin, as in Samaipata for example.

Further down, there are the Yungas, the humid side of the Amazon, then the low valleys and, finally, the primary forest. The Amazonian forest shelters a flora of a unique richness: a dense vegetation, giant trees, carnivorous plants, flowers with astonishing colors... It would take a whole book to draw up an exhaustive picture!