Safran © barmalini - iStockphoto.com.jpg
Préparation de tajines © mariusz_prusaczyk - iStockphoto.com.jpg

An ancestral know-how

Derived from the Arabic za'faran, the word saffron evokes the yellow colour extracted from the stigmas, collected inside the crocus sativus, a rather fragile bulbous plant. Although known since antiquity, this spice would have been cultivated only from the 16th century in Morocco, between Taliouine and Tazenakht. Indeed, this mountainous region in the south of Morocco combines the conditions conducive to the cultivation of this plant of the iris family, between a friable clay-limestone soil and mild temperatures. The saffron trees follow the curves of the mountains, according to the method of cultivation in terraces, to avoid losses of water and soil. From mid-October to mid-November, when they hatch, the terraces are lined with a beautiful purple colour, only in the early morning before the farm workers go into the saffron fields to pick these delicate flowers. Their work is difficult and meticulous: curved, they pick them one by one, for almost 4 hours, before starting the pruning, an operation that consists of removing the stigmas, which are then dried. In a day's work, they harvest barely 100 g of saffron.

The most expensive spice in the world

The whole process, which is carried out by hand, and the large number of personnel required by producers, mean that prices are high on the market, whether at the souk or in grocery stores. Not that saffron is as rare as you might think. However, as soon as you leave the production zone, prices soar. From 35 DH a gram in Taliouine, it rises to 350 DH or even 450 DH in other regions! A victim of its high price, saffron is the most adulterated spice in the world. So it's a good idea to take a few precautions when buying it, even if only a connoisseur can tell the difference. Bear in mind that saffron is never sold as a powder, but always as fragrant, well-dried pistils. In response to this growing scourge, growers' cooperatives are now offering sealed, numbered jars as a guarantee of origin.

Taliouine, the Mecca of Moroccan saffron

In Taliouine, Morocco's saffron capital, some forty of the region's farmers' cooperatives, representing more than 1,500 producers, have formed Economic Interest Groups (EIGs), with the aim of developing their economic activity and improving their living conditions. In order to offer a quality product to customers, permanent monitoring is provided by qualified personnel, from planting to harvesting, pruning and storage. Everything is controlled right down to the product itself, which is analysed in a specific laboratory to check, among other things, that the humidity level is well below 12%. The saffron itself is tested regularly, from the size of the pistils to the smell it releases. These drastic controls are requested by the National Office for Food Safety (ONSSA) in order to fight against counterfeiting. In Taliouine, the inhabitants are proud of this exceptional saffron, which was awarded its Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOP) label in 2012. Grown on more than 1,600 hectares in the region, it is distinguished by its dark red colour, intense smell and unmatched flavour. Its reputation is gradually spreading beyond the borders and to make its name resonate internationally, a festival was created in 2007. Since then, every first weekend in November, in the middle of the harvest, Taliouine celebrates its precious red stigmas. On the programme: local market, concerts and visits to the saffron groves. It is also an opportunity to savour some local saffron dishes.

Saffron in the kitchen

Appreciated for its particular aroma and colouring power, saffron is a tasty spice that goes well with both sweet and savoury dishes. With only 0.1 g of pistils, a dish for 4 people can be enhanced and coloured with an intense orange-yellow colour. The first recipe that comes to mind when talking about saffron is of course paella, but the spice can also enhance the taste of meat or fish. In Morocco, it perfumes cuckoos, chicken tagine and pastilla, among other local dishes. On the sweet side, it is used in pastries, confectionery and even ice cream, giving them a unique flavour. To say that it is easy to use, it is even found in the composition of certain alcoholic drinks such as chartreuse or gin, and also in tea, a local custom of the productive region! If you use it in cooking, let it infuse in a hot liquid useful for preparation, so that it releases all its powerful aromas and intense colour.

Saffron in cosmetics

Cleopatra already knew the virtues of saffron, she who poured a cup of it into her bath to tan her skin. Today, it makes the happiness of the beauty product brands which like it for its antioxidant properties. It is found in particular in the composition of anti-wrinkle creams, because it helps to fight against free radicals, while revitalizing the skin. More than a simple spice, saffron is a product that protects against evil spirits, according to local beliefs. Thus, at weddings, symbols are drawn on the face of the bride-to-be, who wears a harmonious blend of saffron and cloves as a perfume. The spice also accompanies the deceased to keep a pleasant scent in the coffin.

Saffron in medicine

Prized by the native population for its medicinal properties, it is used to soothe aches and pains associated with colds, respiratory problems and toothache. It is also used to soothe labor pains, heal scars and is even said to be a powerful antidote to poisons. It's easy to understand why, before the advent of antibiotics, doctors always had a little saffron in their kit. Today, in modern medicine, it is used in research to combat depression, Alzheimer's and eye problems.

Morocco's flagship product, saffron is a real treasure that the Moroccan government wishes to protect and promote as part of its strategy to develop local products.