Crafts to discover Uzbekistan

The visits of this workshop are free and allow to follow all the stages of silk manufacturing. We start with the shed where the cocoons are kept in whole bags and where the workers make a first sorting according to the size, the quality, the state of the cocoons, before sending them to the next step. The boiling is done in large pots, after they have been preheated in the oven. The purpose of the operation is to free the thread of all the glue which maintains the cocoon in its shape. The chrysalis dies during this operation, without the cocoon having been damaged to remove it. The thread can then be unwound before being woven into carpets and fabrics, and then dyed. The colors used are from natural products (onion peels, pomegranate, turquoise, ladybugs ...). 200 people work in the factory, producing 50 to 60,000 m of silk each year, but can increase production to 200,000 m if necessary. The most interesting - and beautiful - part of the visit is to see the traditional looms, which are all between 100 and 200 years old. The workers there are only asked to weave the best quality fabrics. They will give you a demonstration without any problem. You can also ask to see the more modern workshops, where much of the work is mechanized. At the entrance, a store sells fabrics and rugs. Prices are obviously much higher than in the bazaar.

Visit one of the most famous cutlery shops in Uzbekistan. The traditional Uzbek knife is called the pitchok. It's said to protect against wounds and the devil. It is often stored in a black leather sheath decorated with bright colours. You will find them everywhere in Uzbekistan: on the Chorsu bazaar in Tashkent or in the merchant domes of Bukhara. But of course, nothing is better than watching the manufacturing process in the company of the blacksmith, choosing, negotiating and buying your knife directly on the spot, from the hands of the craftsman!

In this workshop we make the tioupés, the small caps that all Uzbeks wear and whose motifs define their region of origin. There are classic models and others, more elaborate, made of fabric or enhanced with silk or velvet, for ceremonies. The special feature of Choust skullcaps is that they can be folded up and stored neatly in one's pocket, like an origami. They take up no more space than a mobile phone and Uzbeks take great care of them.

The old mosque in iwan and the adjoining madrasah in the Jewish quarter have been converted into a crafts centre under the aegis of Unesco. It is a learning centre specializing in weaving, both rugs and suzani, embroidered on site. A few master craftsmen pass on their knowledge to a dozen apprentices. The colours used to dye 100% silk yarns are natural. It is a very beautiful and peaceful place, around a hundred-year-old mulberry tree.

Shorofidin comes from one of the oldest artisan families of Rishtan, of which he represents the sixth generation. Today he passes on his knowledge to his grandson. During the visit of the workshop you will be able to watch a 10-minute film shot in 1985 by the Russian director Malik Kayumov. The star at the time was Shorofidin's father. He was mainly concerned with the elaboration of motifs and you will find decorated ceramics like nowhere else.