The Rub' al-Khali
Saudi Arabia is a huge desert land, punctuated by a few oases. Its most mythical desert is the Rub' al-Khali, one of the largest deserts in the world and the largest area of continuous sand. It occupies the south of the country, spilling over into Yemen and Oman, the Emirates and Qatar. It evokes the camel caravans loaded with spices and incense; the hostility of an arid climate; a scenery changing with the winds where it is easy to get lost. Its 650,000 km² are covered with golden or glowing sand dunes, some of which can reach 300 meters high. The Rub al-Khali is considered the most inhospitable desert in the world. Temperatures can reach 60°C during the day and -10°C at night. Even the Bedouins hardly venture there. In Arabic, Rub al-Khali means "the empty quarter" and indeed, there is nothing but sand. Only about twenty species of plants have been listed. Some spiders, scorpions or rodents populate the dunes. The Rub' al-Khali is a land for experienced explorers, adventurers with nerves of steel. The first Westerner to have crossed this desert was Bertram Thomas, a British diplomat, minister of the Sultan of Muscat and Oman in the 1930s. It took him almost a year to complete his adventure, which he recounted in a travelogue entitled Arabia Felix. St John Philby, British spy and eminence grise of the first king of Saudi Arabia Ibn Saud, followed him in 1932. He was the first to discover the Wabar craters, left by meteorites that fell in the region 140 million years ago. He left an abundant literature recounting his expeditions and adventures, unfortunately not translated. The British explorer Wilfred Thesiger immersed himself for almost 4 years with the Bedouins of the Rub', between 1946 and 1950. He was the first to attempt to map the region and reported his experience in the story The Desert of Deserts. The Rub' al-Khali was not always so hostile and devastated. The once verdant region has dried up over the millennia. The last lake is said to have disappeared 800 years ago, and some of the dry lakes are still visible. The sands may have buried Iram, the "City of a Thousand Pillars," which flourished between 3000 and the first century. To go to the Rub' al-Khali today, you must have a special authorization and be accompanied by a local guide, the dangers being numerous and real.
The Nefoud and the desert of ad-Dhana
The Nefoud desert, located between Hail and Sakaka, in the north of the country, is an erg. The crescent-shaped dunes are fixed and only the surface sand moves. The region is regularly swept by strong winds, printing on the ground strange shapes. It occupies a large oval depression stretching over 250 kilometers wide and 90 kilometers high. The rains are very random. Thus, no drop of water fell between 1998 and 2001, while some years, it can rain three times in the same winter. The red sand comes from eroded sandstone deposits. In some areas, traces of fossilized forests can be seen, and a 7,000-year-old elephant skeleton has been found here. On its western flank, on the edge of the Hijaz Mountains, water pours down and allows the cultivation of dates and barley. The oasis of Jubbah, at the foot of the black mountain of Umm Senman, is a privileged starting point to explore the Nefoud.
The desert of ad-Dahna is a long ribbon of red sand, linking the deserts of Rub' al-Khali and Nefoud. It is 40 to 80 kilometers wide and stretches for 1,000 kilometers in an arc to the east of Riyadh. Rich in iron oxide, it is the reddest of the Saudi deserts. The dunes form horizontal "veins" of beauty. To the east of the Saudi capital, on the Summan limestone plateau, a network of galleries and underground cavities has been exploited for thousands of years by the locals. They use the cavities naturally dug by rainwater as cisterns. The proximity of the ad-Dhana desert to the capital makes it the most visited desert by Saudis on weekends (Friday and Saturday).
Walking in the desert
A rare experience, walking in the desert is also demanding. The Saudi deserts are ergs, sandy deserts. If the difference in altitude is relatively moderate, walking on the soft sand can be tiring. A good physical condition is therefore imperative. You will be rewarded with spectacular scenery, vibrant colors and nights of total silence, where you only have to reach out for the stars. Even if you bivouac in comfort, the desert is a unique place to get rid of material contingencies, a perfect place to recharge your batteries. The best time to go there is between October and March. The temperatures are milder, but beware, the nights can be biting. It is usually between 20 and 30°C during the day and 0 and 15°C at night, depending on the month and the desert. The Rub al-Khali is warmer than the northern deserts, but the thermal amplitude is also more important. We strongly advise against trekking in summer, between April and September. Going with a guide is absolutely essential. He knows the desert, knows how to read the landscapes and to avoid its traps. He also manages all the logistics: bivouacs, meals, water, camel drivers... It is necessary to foresee a consequent budget, of at least 200 € per day, Saudi Arabia being an expensive country. To fight against the heat, it is best to start your trek early in the morning, to take a long break for lunch and to walk again at the end of the day. Bring covering clothes. Desert nomads usually wear two layers of clothing to protect them from the sun and also because there is a slight air movement between the two layers. Remember to hydrate very regularly and if you can, with a hot drink. The evaporation of perspiration gives you a feeling of freshness. Sweating will cause you to lose a lot of mineral salts. The best way to avoid cramps and discomfort due to a lack of salts in the body is to eat very salty food. Salty dried fruits to nibble on during the day will satisfy your cravings. In case of a hot spell, wet your hat or your cheche.
What to put in your bag?
An outing in the desert must be prepared. You don't want to go with your nose to the wind, otherwise you'll end up with stinging eyes, itchy throat and burned skin. You will quickly realize that sand seeps in everywhere and that the more you are prepared, the more comfortable your expedition will be. The list of specific items to bring is proportional to the number of days. The more time you spend in the desert, the more equipment you will need. It also depends on your mode of transportation in the desert. Between the air-conditioned car, the back of a dromedary or your feet, the needs are not the same. In any case, you will need a light covering outfit, a windbreaker, a scarf to cover your head, a pair of sneakers, sunglasses with category 3 or 4 anti-UV glasses, a sun cream with a very high protection factor, a small backpack and a lot of water. If you plan to trek for several days, you will need protective clothing with UV protection, as well as special anti-sand shoes, gaiters, anti-UV gloves and walking sticks with a special "sand" tip. Protect your belongings with a sand-proof backpack and put your sensitive items in freezer bags with a zip (camera, phone, mobile charger, documents...). Include in your toiletry kit physiological serum to rinse your eyes, toiletry wipes, anti-blister bandages, an arnica or aloe vera soothing cream and a roll of toilet paper. If you plan to bivouac for one or more nights, bring warm clothes for the evenings, even a compact down jacket in winter, gloves and a hat.
Bivouac in the desert
If you want to push the doors of the desert, you might as well spend the night there. You will be struck by the bubble of silence that falls on this part of the world and the nights deprived of any form of pollution. The stars shine by billions in a night of an ink black. Nothing seems to be able to disturb the extreme tranquility that reigns there, except the wind, if it has decided to blow. The thermal amplitude day/night is high and if we add the tiredness of the day, the cold can quickly become biting as soon as the night falls. In the heart of winter, the thermometer can reach 0°C just before daybreak. It is essential to have the right equipment for a really good night's sleep: a sleeping bag with a temperature of -5°C, a ground sheet or a small self-inflating mattress, good socks, a hat, and a warm and comfortable outfit. For evenings under the stars, bring a flashlight, a down jacket and a good sweater. Put a garbage bag in your bag to collect all your waste and leave the desert as you found it, immaculate.
Prepare your vehicle well
A 4x4 vehicle is essential to get to the Saudi desert, whether it is sandy or stony. Bring plenty of gasoline, at least one jerry can for emergency use, and water cans for the radiator. Carry a shovel to remove sand if necessary and a tow rope. The less electronics your vehicle has, the easier it will be to repair in case of a breakdown. When you arrive in the desert, reduce the pressure of your tires. The contact surface between the sand and the vehicle will be larger and the grip better. To avoid getting stuck in the sand, maintain a constant speed and drive smoothly. Heavy acceleration can cause the wheels to spin and dig a hole under them. Carry a detailed map and a compass to help you stay on course. We strongly advise against going on an adventure alone, especially if you have no experience of driving on sand. Some deserts such as Rub al-Khali (Empty Quarters) require special permission. You will need to provide your detailed itinerary to obtain it.
