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Practical information : Treat yourself (& others) Mauritania
Budget & Tips
Cash is the only form of payment available in Mauritania for most of your purchases: at the market, in the cab, at the hostel, in the restaurant... With the exception, of course, of luxury addresses which sometimes accept credit cards.
Currency. Please note that the obligation to declare all foreign currency when entering Mauritania was abolished by Circular No. 006/GR/98 issued by the Central Bank of Mauritania on July 27, 1998. If a customs officer asks you to comply with this requirement, be firm and refuse. On the other hand, it is forbidden to take ouguiyas out of the country and, in any case, you will have great difficulty changing them on your return. If you come to Mauritania from Mali or Senegal, you are not allowed to bring CFA francs into the country. The commission charged by Mauritanian banks to change your currency into ouguiyas is around 2%.
Banking. There are numerous bank branches in Nouakchott, many of them recently equipped with ATMs that accept Visa cards. So, in theory, you no longer need to carry large sums of euros with you... In practice, the commissions charged by European banks on withdrawals in Mauritania can be high (up to €4-5 per withdrawal, depending on your bank and card), and importing cash to change on the spot can remain a practical and economical solution. To change euros into ouguiyas, you'll be hard-pressed to find a place on the street around the central market. For larger sums, prefer bank branches (Société Générale), where you'll often benefit from a better rate than on the street... but of course it all depends on the exchange rate.
Outside the capital, ATMs accepting Visa cards are available in Nouadhibou and Atar. Elsewhere, you'll need to bring ouguiyas with you, as exchange is not available there, or not at very advantageous rates, as is the case in Rosso.
What's very local
In Mauritania, you have to rummage! The markets will be places of treasure hunting, discovery and experimentation: they really are teeming! Humans, animals, objects, fruit and vegetables, fish, meat... Sometimes right on the ground, you won't want to miss these examples of everyday Mauritanian life. Don't forget to bring back dates, fabrics, handicrafts, bottarga and a khaima (consider sending them by parcel!).
Bargaining is a very common practice in Mauritania. Many prices are up for discussion: cabs, accommodation, cigarettes, all the little services, not to mention the typical souvenirs sold in specialized stores in Nouakchott, which are undoubtedly worth a visit, provided you're prepared. To put it simply, there are two things you need to remember if you don't want to sink into the fear of being constantly taken for a ride. The first is that, before any transaction, you must define the price you consider fair, and never agree to pay more than that. This may seem easy at first glance, but in reality it requires a great deal of self-confidence and skill on the part of the European traveller. You're in great demand, you won't go unnoticed, and everyone knows that with an exchange rate of €1 to MRU 40, the European traveller is bound to be a good customer. The second thing to remember is to be prepared for any eventuality by leaving without the coveted object, without cursing the seller. This can be learned and requires patience. But it's worth the time, because successful haggling is an incredible way of sharing, exchanging and forging links.