Southern parks and reserves
Covering 700 km2, just 70 km from Blantyre, making it possible to get there and back in a day, the Majete Reserve was declared a protected area in 1955. By 2003, only a few antelopes remained. The fauna had disappeared, particularly the rhinos and elephants, victims of intense poaching. Added to this was deforestation linked to the manufacture of coal, a major source of income for the local population at the time. Twenty years later, the population has risen to twelve thousand animals of seventeen species, gradually reintroduced, including the big five: lions, buffalo, rhinoceros, leopards and elephants, for which this is the country's main viewing area. Each year brings a new addition to the cast. From 2018 to 2021, a total of 23 giraffes have been added, as well as 5 cheetahs and six wild dogs, also known as "painted wolves" for their variegated coat, typical of the southern regions and one of Africa's most endangered carnivores. There are a hundred times fewer of them than at the beginning of the 20thcentury . Local people have developed beekeeping and fish farming, creating hundreds of jobs. Safaris are organized here, with the option of accommodation in comfortable lodges conveniently located within the reserve.
Located 50 kilometers south of Blantyre, Lengwe National Park covers some 900 km2. Founded in 1928, it became a national park in 1970 to protect its antelope population. Isolated in southern Malawi, close to Mozambique, it does not attract many visitors. Wildlife is less abundant than in the country's other parks and reserves.
Near Lengwe, a 1h30 drive away, the Mwabvi Reserve is Malawi's smallest and most outlying reserve, covering just 135 km2. You'll need a 4X4 to visit it, especially during the dry season.
Central parks and reserves
Liwonde Park, located south of Lake Malombe and bordered by the Shire River, covers 548 km2 of forest and savannah. Created in 1973, it is now home to a population of almost twenty thousand mammals. It has benefited from cutting-edge technology to monitor and, above all, protect the local wildlife. Thousands of metal traps set by poachers were removed. Cheetahs were reintroduced to the park in 2017. They had been absent for over a century. They were followed by lions and rhinos transferred from South Africa. Crocodiles pass through the waters of the Shire and its banks. The park is the main observation point for elephants in Malawi. They are so numerous that they are used to populate other reserves in the country, such as Majete, Nkhotakota and Nyika. Moving the animals is also a way of relieving and balancing
and balance the ecosystem. The largest relocation operation took place over a one-month period in July 2022, using helicopters to locate the animals and trucks to move them: 263 elephants, more than a third of the population, left Liwonde, transported 350 kilometers to Kasungu National Park near the border with Zambia, to establish and develop a viable population.
After a long period of decline, the Mangochi reserve is now benefiting from the transfer of animals from the neighbouring Liwonde park, which it borders on over an area of 358 km2. In 2022, impalas, sable and warthogs arrived to help restore biodiversity.
On a human level, the inhabitants of the regions concerned are benefiting from the rehabilitation of the parks thanks to the development of tourism. Liwonde and Mangochi are at the heart of a major economic hub in the country. Income-generating activities, such as pepper production, are steadily increasing.
Lake Malawi National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique ecosystem. Located on the southern shore of the lake near Monkey Bay, it was created in 1980. It is the only park in the country to protect an aquatic area. The waters are home to some 1,000 species of fish, almost all of them endemic to the lake's landlocked location, including 350 species of brightly-colored cichlids, which are of great interest to the theory of evolution. According to UNESCO, they are comparable to the Galapagos Island finches noted by Darwin. This is one of Malawi's most suitable locations for scuba diving.
In the center of the country, the Nkhotakota Nature Reserve is the country's oldest reserve, covering an area of 1,800 km2. Crossed by rivers that flow into the nearby lake, it is a land of forest and scrubland four hours' drive north of Lilongwe. Altitudes range from 500 metres to 1,738 metres (Pic Chipata). In 2014, only around 100 of the 1,500 elephants counted in the 1990s remained. Their ivory was sought after by poachers. The park was falling into disuse. World Bank aid enabled the launch of a wildlife conservation program led by African Parks. In 2016 and again in 2022, more than 500 elephants, accompanied by fifteen hippopotamuses and a dozen other species, were reintroduced to the park. Prince Harry was part of the expert team for the first operation in 2016. He then became Chairman of African Parks. Since 2023, he has been a member of the steering committee.
In the center, 165 kilometers northwest of Lilongwe, stretching along the border with Zambia and its Lukusuzi National Park, Kasungu Park is the country's second largest. It covers 2,316 km2 and its plateaus rise to a thousand meters above sea level. It was created in 1970. Like Malawi's other parks, it has fallen victim to poaching and ivory trafficking to China and Southeast Asia. As a result, the elephant population has fallen from 1,200 at creation to just 49 in 2015. The reintroduction of 263 elephants from Liwonde in 2022 is a first step towards rehabilitating this reserve, which is often closed between January and March during the rainy season. The park is criss-crossed by numerous watercourses through savannah vegetation, and offers numerous hippo observation points.
To the south-west of Lilongwe, around two hours' drive away, the Dzalanyama Forest Reserve covers an area of 989 km2 at an altitude ranging from 1,100 to 1,650 metres. It is dominated by miombos, the oak-like trees emblematic of southern Africa. It's an ideal spot for birdwatchers such as the olive-headed weaver, miombo barbican, scree rockcatcher, white-tailed flycatcher, pale-billed hornbill and orelin. Wild animals, on the other hand, are rare.
90 kilometers from Lilongwe, close to Salima and Lake Malawi, the small (2,000-hectare) Kuti Game Reserve offers families the chance to walk or cycle in the wild and admire zebras, impalas, giraffes, monkeys and numerous birds.
Northern parks and reserves
Nyika Park is located in northern Malawi, close to the border with Zambia. It is accessed via a road that branches off from the Rumphi-Katumbi road. With a surface area of 3,134 km2, it is the largest in the country. At an altitude of over 2,000 metres, the plateau offers an atmosphere that is often misty and cool, unusual in Africa. The superb landscape is made up of wide plains, cut by lush green valleys dotted with shrubs, as Nyika means "where the water comes from". This is one of the country's most heavily irrigated areas, with small streams winding their way between hills where orchids bloom. There are over 200 varieties. The fauna includes many species of birds, such as the Denham bustard and the Wattled crane, as well as falcons, eagles and herons. Elephants, zebras, buffaloes and leopards can also be seen. Entrance is by vehicle only, and a fee is charged. On-site safaris, on foot, horseback, mountain bike or 4x4, are among the most popular activities.
The Chisanga Falls are within easy reach of the park. They are a sight not to be missed by all nature lovers. All around, there are numerous viewpoints over the region, making a visit even more worthwhile. October to January is the best time to observe the migratory birds that stop over here. In the park, you can stay in two lodges run by Central African Wilderness Safaris, which offers organized safaris in the region with packages that include meals, visits and accommodation.
To the south of the Nyika Plateau, the Vwaza Reserve offers other safari possibilities, but in a much wetter and hotter climate. Elephants, hippos and buffalo are plentiful, as are warthogs and baboons. Over 300 bird species have been recorded here, making it a birdwatcher's paradise. Please note: it's important to bring a repellent, as tsetse flies are plentiful. A bite from them is likely to transmit a parasite responsible for human trypanosomiasis, better known as sleeping sickness. The WHO is aiming to eradicate this disease by 2030.
Face to face with an animal
Here's some advice on how to behave if you come across an animal in the bush or on the way from your tent to the toilet. First and foremost, and this is good news, you should know that you are not natural prey for the animal and that there is no reason why the encounter should end in a bloodbath! As a general rule, it's not a good idea to separate a calf from its mother or an individual from the herd. Making the animal feel that its space is shrinking is also the best way to make it turn against you. Apart from these two basic tips, the reactions to adopt vary according to the mammal in question (or at least those that may pose a threat).
Facing an elephant. Elephants are generally peaceful animals, and are more interested in imposing their authority than in getting into a real fight. If an elephant charges at you in a threatening manner, don't panic: keep calm and it will always stop almost a few yards away. However, beware of females accompanied by their cubs (this applies to most mammals, especially lionesses). In all cases, you should be able to tell the difference between a dummy charge (head up, barking, flapping ears) and a real charge (head down, ears pinned back, maximum running speed).
Facing a buffalo. These fickle and unpredictable mammals, with poor eyesight but an excellent sense of smell, are completely unreliable. Rather peaceful-looking, they may decide to charge for no apparent reason and without even provocation (the mere sensation of feeling something sneak up on them may be enough to arouse them suddenly). With this animal, you are strongly advised to keep your distance. Should the charge occur by accident, if you can, climb the nearest tree at full speed, or jump to the side to dodge it at the last moment. This may seem like a far-fetched solution, but it's the only one that works in open terrain; make sure you wait until the last minute before jumping: there's every chance you'll miss the buffalo.
Facing a hippopotamus. Despite its twitching little ears and jovial laugh, the hippopotamus is the most dangerous animal in Africa - or at least the one that causes the most human deaths. Its enormous square mouth conceals large canines capable of splitting a dugout canoe in two; and while this behemoth may appear short-legged, that doesn't stop it from moving, on water or land, at astonishing speed (a breathtaking scene!). So it's best to make friends from a distance with this animal, which doesn't hesitate to charge at anyone who enters its perimeter. If you spot a small pair of ears on your pirogue, give several strokes of the oars on the hull of your boat: these vibrations should be enough to bring out the rest of the group, allowing you to see where you stand. Then go as far out to sea as possible. On land, never stand between a hippo and the water.
Facing a lion or hyena. The rule of thumb is never to run away and turn your back: the animal would immediately see you as prey, and would come after you nine times out of ten. So stay as calm as possible and be confident. If the animal shows signs of aggression, take your turn: clap your hands, shout, raise your arms and even take a few steps forward (a bit like you would with a stray dog that's a bit too clingy). If the animal starts to charge, run towards it, making as much noise as possible. It may sound crazy, but it's the most effective way of repelling a predator. With lions, for example, it's all about defiance and self-confidence: if you look confident, the beast will sense this and consider you superior. In fact, he'll usually run away before you arrive, and if you come face to face with him, he'll move away on his own.
