Things to see and do Muntenia

This beautiful classical-style building, built in 1852, was purchased in 1874 by the Capşa family, who turned it into a highly reputed confectionery, before adding a hotel, restaurant and café. The establishment enjoyed its heyday in the 1930s, when it became a meeting place for writers, artists and intellectuals. Neglected under Communism, it was renovated and restored to its former refinement in the 2000s. As for the confectionery, it still exists: here you can sample the sweets and cakes that made the place famous.

The immense Place de la Victoire forms a kind of gateway to the city's upscale northern districts. It's surrounded by buildings in a variety of styles which, however tall and massive they may be, in no way detract from the square's appearance as an enormous crossroads. To the east, you'll notice the columns of the austere Palatul Victoriei, a rigid building designed by Duiliu Marcu. Built in 1944, it housed the Ministry of Foreign Affairs before becoming the seat of the Romanian government. To the south are buildings typical of the Ceaușescu era.

Erected in 1922 on the Parisian model, it celebrates the victory of the Romanian army in the First World War, the proclamation of King Ferdinand and the unification of the three Romanian provinces. As the first version quickly fell into disrepair, it was destroyed, rebuilt and inaugurated in 1936. Under Communism, the royal representations were removed, then replaced after 1989. From its summit, the Arc de Triomphe offers a fine view of the surrounding parks. The small museum inside features photos of the old arch and plans of the city at the time.

Opened in 1860, it is the oldest park in Bucharest, and certainly the most charming. Its benches, kiosks, avenues lined with venerable trees, lake and bridges give it a very romantic feel. It is a very popular place in all seasons: in good weather, you can rent a boat there. In winter, people come here to skate or toboggan. Also look for the chess player area (șahiști), where gentlemen play lively backgammon games. All in length, the park is surrounded by beautiful residences, such as the palace Creţulescu.

This vast square is equipped with a fountain to match its size. Built in the 1980s, the fountain was renovated in 2018 and now offers beautiful night-time shows with water jets, light shows, projections and music. A free "symphony of waters" that is played every weekend from May to October. The buildings, which are clad with pubs, are identical on three sides, only the northern part having survived the destruction. The Unirea shopping centre, created in 1976, saw the opening of the country's first McDonald's in 1995, an emblem of emerging capitalism.

This "Roman square" is an important crossroads for roads and urban transport, served by metro lines 1 and 2. The long boulevard Dacia runs right through it, and the boulevards Magheru and Lascăr Catargiu end here. It is surrounded by several fine buildings, such as the palace of the Commercial Academy, occupied by the Academy of Economic Sciences, to the north. Several facades are adorned with advertising. The most notable, emblematic of the premises, is the huge bottle of a well-known soda, which lights up at night.

Opposite the National Museum of Art, this superb 1895 building is the work of French architect Paul Gottereau. Built by King Carol ^I, it houses the city's oldest central university library. Seriously damaged during the 1989 revolution, the three-building structure was renovated. In 2010, an equestrian statue of Carol ^I was installed in front of the Foundation Palace, the original structure.

In front of the imposing Colţea Hospital building stands a statue of Mihai Cantacuzino, built in 1869. It was he who, in 1704, decided to build this hospital, the first in the city. It was rebuilt twice. The Colţea church was also founded by Mihai Cantacuzino, in 1702. It underwent numerous renovations after a fire (1739) and an earthquake (1838). You'll notice its unique portico, Italian Baroque style and floral ornamentation. The interior features paintings by Tattarescu dating from 1871.

Connecting Piața Universității and Piața Romană, they are one of the city's most important roads and commercial thoroughfares, making them busy and often congested. Built at the beginning of the ^20th century, these rectilinear axes stand in stark contrast to the surrounding winding streets. Many of their buildings date from the interwar period, in Art Deco or modern styles. Among the most noteworthy are the Ambasador and Lido hotels, and the astonishing Ciclop garage (no. 6).

Dominated by the Grand Hotel (formerly the Intercontinental), University Square is one of the emblematic sites of the 1989 revolution and the mini-mergerades of the 1990s, as witnessed by the many crosses, plaques and mausoleums that pay tribute to their victims. At its center stands the equestrian statue of national hero Mihai Viteazul (Michael the Brave), erected in 1876. Today, the square and its surroundings are a lively place where local youth gather around a small fountain. It also remains a focal point for demonstrators.

A masterpiece of architecture, this Byzantine-style church with its twisted towers was erected in 1517 by Prince Neagoe Basarab on the site of a former 14th-century monastery. The work of master mason Manole, it has been redesigned and restored several times. Its present appearance is due to the French architect André Lecomte du Nouÿ who, from 1875, restored it to its former beauty. At that time, the building was practically in a state of ruin, following earthquakes and fires at the beginning of the 19th century. The interior is superb, with its gilded oil paintings. The original frescoes have been largely replaced and fragments can be seen in the Bucharest History Museum. The church also houses the tombs of its founder as well as those in white marble of the royal couples Carol I (1866-1914) and his wife Elisabeth, and Ferdinand (1914-1927) and Queen Mary. They were joined in 2003 by King Carol II, who died in exile. The exterior is incredibly rich, the stone is chiseled to the extreme with oriental motifs, representing plants or birds. Opposite the church, the episcopal palace, all in red brick, dates from 1890.

Legend has it that Manole had his wife walled up in the church, in the hope of breaking the curse that had struck the building site. He himself was sequestered there and, trying to escape, he crashed to the ground, causing a fountain to gush forth, visible at the entrance to the park that bears his name.

First of all, you will be surrounded by the large and interesting buildings of the outbuildings, which are interesting and arranged in a bar, villas, post, hotel, souvenir shop… The park on the terrace is in Italian Renaissance style and puts the castle in value.

This church perched on a mound is an important monument of the Romanian faith. Founded in 1658 by the voivode Constantin Șerban, it became the church of the Metropolitan of Wallachia a few years later, and the cathedral of the patriarchate in 1925. The building is rather massive, with an arcaded façade and three bell towers, added in 1698 by Constantin Brâncoveanu. The interior ornamentation is impressive, but perhaps most fascinating of all is the fervor displayed within. Next door, the Patriarchate Palace houses the headquarters of the Romanian Orthodox Church.

At the entrance to the historic center, at the junction of Strada Lipscani and Bulevardul Brătianu, stands the Lupoaicei statue, a reproduction of the famous Roman she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus. It was donated to the city by the Municipality of Rome in 1906, to mark the Latinity of Romanian culture. Similar replicas can be seen in other cities around the country, such as Timișoara, Alba Iulia or Târgu Mureș, donated by various Italian municipalities. In Bucharest, the she-wolf has changed location several times.

Slightly higher than the royal palace, Pelișor (literally "little Peleș", which nonetheless has 70 rooms) bears the same German Renaissance touch as its big brother. It was built between 1899 and 1903 by Carol ^I, who presented it as a gift to his nephew Ferdinand and his wife Marie, heirs to the Romanian throne. It was she who designed the interior decoration, in the Art Nouveau style she was so fond of. The small palace reveals the romantic, avant-garde personality of this aesthete queen, who died here in 1938.

This beautiful park with its lush vegetation was founded in 1860 by the famous physician Carol Davila. Its 18 hectares are divided into several sectors, dedicated to rare plants, Dobrogea flora and Mediterranean plants. There's also the grandmother's garden, the Italian garden, the medicinal garden, the rose garden... The greenhouses (please note reduced opening hours) house tropical and subtropical plants, cacti and palms. In all, over 5,000 varieties, not counting the 500,000 specimens in the herbarium.

In a pleasant neighborhood off boulevard Lascăr Catargiu, this striking 1911 red house houses a fine collection by sculptor Frédéric Storck, a leading figure in Romanian modern art, as well as paintings by his wife Cecilia Cuțescu-Storck and works by Storck's father and grandfather, both sculptors as well. The collection also includes ink and charcoal drawings, pastels, watercolors, gouaches and bronze plaques, as well as collectibles such as icons and antique coins.

Perched on a Carpathian ridge at the foot of the Făgărăș mountains, this ruined citadel is considered the real castle of Vlad Țepeș, the Vlach voivode who inspired the character of Dracula. Built in the ^14th century by Prince Negru Vodă to protect against Ottoman invasions, it has undergone numerous transformations, with the addition of towers and a keep. Vlad Țepeș, in particular, undertook an extension of the fortress during his reign, making it his second home. Legend has it that he took refuge here from the Turks in 1462, when they invaded the region. His wife is said to have thrown herself into the void to avoid ending up in their hands. Falling into the river below, she gave it its name: râul Doamnei, the river of the Princess. The Poienari citadel occupies a strategic position, at the entrance to the Argeș valley. It's reached by climbing a staircase of some 1,400 steps. Up there, you'll enjoy a magnificent panoramic view of the Argeș valley, the Vidraru lake dam and the surrounding mountains.

You'll reach the citadel from the north, via the mythical Transfăgărașan road, or from Curtea de Argeș, some 25 km further south. In winter, as the Transfăgărașan is closed, access is only from Curtea de Argeș. Find out in advance whether the rehabilitation work has been completed and whether the citadel is open to the public again (www.muzeul-judetean-arges.ro/cetatea-poienari/).

The Princely Court(Curtea domnească) is a large complex of buildings with orange brick walls, set in a very pleasant park. It was built in the ^14th century by Mircea cel Bătrân (Mircea the Elder) and became the residence of the princes and the capital of Wallachia from 1415 to 1659. Vlad Ţepeş, who inspired the character of Dracula, lived here. His bust can be seen not far from the entrance to the complex. All that remains of the princely residence are the high ruins, where the square-shaped cellars are clearly visible. Resting on a pyramidal base, the Chindiei tower, 27 metres high and 9 metres in diameter, is the emblem of the city it dominates. It was from here that the closing of the city gates was announced at sunset, hence its name, which means "twilight tower". Later, it was used as an observation tower and then as a prison. Its current form (notably its windows) and neo-Gothic style date back to the ^19th century. You can climb to the top via a narrow staircase. On each floor, a small exhibition presents the history of the building and its princely dynasties. The view of the city and region from the roof is remarkable, but above all it allows you to appreciate the structure of the residence and imagine it as it was when it housed the princes. The complex also boasts two churches. The large princely church was built in 1583, and its Greek cross plan is a fine example of ^15th-century Byzantine architecture. The carved limewood iconostasis dates from 1697. The western wall features portraits of the greatest princes of the time. Although their names are written in Cyrillic, you may recognize Matei Basarab, Constantin Brâncoveanu or Mihai Viteazul. The large church bell dating from 1669 is on display in the gallery. The little princely church (Sfânta Vineri), further away, dates back to the ^15th century and is characterized by its cloverleaf shape. The Bălaşa house (^17th century) opposite takes its name from a princess, wife of Prince Constantin Şerban. At first, it housed the most destitute, then became a school. The site is particularly popular with Romanian tourists and schools, as the residence represents a symbol of the country's glorious past. For French-speaking visitors, a short guide in French is on sale at the ticket office. A map and text, displayed after the entrance, also provide some explanations.

Founded in 1645, the Moldavian-style church, reminiscent of the one in Iași, boasts well-preserved interior paintings. The monks' living quarters are charming, with flower-filled corridors and low white walls. You'll find a short explanatory text in French. Another interesting religious monument, the Sfântu Dumitru church, located strada Bărăției, was founded in 1639 by Dumitru Buzinca, one of Wallachia's most important boyars at the time.

This imposing brick edifice, on the corner of strada Luterană and strada General Berthelot, was inaugurated in 1884. It is the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Bucharest, a religion claimed by over 800,000 people in Romania, including a majority of Hungarians. The church, mainly Romanesque in style, includes a few Gothic elements. The entrance is surmounted by a large rose window. The interior, dark and elegant, features an impressive organ.

West of Piteşti, this park extends beyond the gate of the World War I Heroes. This pleasant green space of almost 30 hectares includes an oak forest, a small zoo and a convent dating from 1699. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, it is still a popular place to walk, perfect for cycling and rollerblading. To reach it, you can opt for a walk from the centre, through the beautiful wooded areas, or take bus 2A or 5.

Housed in the splendid Post Palace, this museum traces the country's history back to prehistoric times. The various sections house rich collections. In the lapidarium, you'll see a replica of Rome's Trajan column, as well as numerous frescoes and statues. The most interesting room is undoubtedly the Treasure Room, featuring the famous Poule aux poussins d'or, a set of gold coins in a highly refined style, said to have belonged to the Visigoth king Athanaric.

This covered passage, designed by architect Felix Xenopol and opened in 1891, is divided into two branches (Macca and Vilacrosse), which meet under an elegant rotunda. Both passages are occupied by boutiques and cafés. The yellow vaulted windows create a very special lighting ambience, whatever the time of day. A calm and pleasant place, which bears witness to a time when Bucharest shone and imitated the great capitals of Europe.

Dating from the ^14th century, the remains of the former princely court(Curtea Veche) are Bucharest's oldest monument. The complex was at the heart of the medieval city. It was under the reign of the Wallachian voivode Vlad Ţepeş (who inspired the character of Dracula), between 1456 and 1462, but above all under that of Constantin Brâncoveanu (1688-1714), that the princely residence enjoyed its greatest influence. Damaged by fire and earthquakes, the prestigious buildings were gradually abandoned by the end of the ^18th century.

Installed since 2004 in a wing of the Parliament Palace, the museum has a vast exhibition space. It presents the works of contemporary Romanian artists, often satirical, as a thumbnail to the place. There are also works by foreign artists. The MNAC has a unique collection, inherited from the communist regime, reflecting the propaganda of the time. Part of it is exposed on the first floor. On the fourth floor, a nice rooftop offers an incomparable view of the city.

This imposing 1900 building, one of the most beautiful in the capital, was designed by French architect Paul Gottereau. Built in an eclectic style reminiscent of the Petit Palais in Paris, it is one of the symbols of French influence on Romanian architecture in the early ^20th century. Its richly decorated facade is dominated by a large central dome, which illuminates the hall. The monumental entrance arch, supported by four columns, houses a clock, framed by Hermes and Demeter. Today, the palace houses the headquarters of the CEC Bank.

Wedged between blocks of flats at the entrance to Place de la Révolution, this red-brick, Brâncovenesc-style church was built in 1722 on the initiative of boyar Iordache Crețulescu (or Kretzulescu), Prince Brâncoveanu's son-in-law. The interior frescoes, dating from 1860, are by Tattarescu. The church underwent numerous alterations in the ^20th century. Threatened with demolition by the Communist regime, it was finally preserved. Damaged during the 1989 revolution, it was restored between 1990 and 2000.

The municipal tourist office is located in the underpass of Piaţa Universităţii. In this recently refurbished space you will find some brochures, maps and practical information on transport, points of interest in the capital, excursion and guided tour services, as well as cultural activities. The information is not overwhelming, but this small office can be useful. A staff member on site may be able to provide you with information.

On a tiny island to the north of the lake lies this monastery, founded around the beginning of the ^15th century by the Wallachian prince Mircea the Elder (Mircea cel Bătrân). The monastery church, a handsome brick edifice, is in the Byzantine style. Its interiors are covered with frescoes. Vlad Țepeș, the voivode who inspired the character of Dracula, had defensive walls, a bridge and a prison built here. Legend even has it that he was buried there, but to date no evidence has confirmed this. The island can be reached by footbridge or by boat.

This village on the road to Ploieşti owes its name to the great Romanian playwright (1852-1912), whose birthplace he was. It is, of course, that a small exposure to his memory is presented.

This small station is in kind a "prestige" station. This is where the Orient-Express stops, before winning Istanbul.

A beautiful mountain resort, a small cave offers exquisite karst formations. We then continue to Bran and Braşov.

Stop in his charming 1386-year-old Monastère monastery. At the foot of a cliff, this building has the particularity of being partially carved in a rock.

The icon in its midst is, it seems, miraculous. A few minutes walk is necessary to access it, but the site is worth a visit.

Paintings (including the last painting painted), furniture and personal effects gathered in what was his home and his death. Nicolae Grigorescu (1838-1907) worked for a long time in France, where his painting had the happiness to please Emperor Napoleon III in particular.

The other attraction of CÂmpina. Bogdan Petriceicu's castle (1838-1907) was built between 1893 and 1896 by the history teacher (and instigator of a nationalist current) of the same name in honour of his daughter Iulia. This one, considered a brilliant poet, died of tuberculosis at only 18 years, shortly before receiving a diploma from the Sorbonne, where she studied. And it is to communicate in the past with his daughter that B.P Hasdeu built this erected edifice as a temple of spiritualism. Its crude and frozen exterior hides an interior decoration rich in symbols with an abundance of stained glass windows.

Cheap and very comfortable, one of the best choices in Azuga.

This small, recent museum is unique in Bucharest. As soon as you arrive, you'll be met by a guide who will explain the various stages of your visit. The first room displays documents (written, audio and video) tracing the history of the regime, from its advent through the darkest hours of Ceaușescu's dictatorship to its fall. Then, to make the experience more immersive, you'll have the opportunity to wander around and settle into the rooms of an apartment fully recreated with period furniture and objects.

To the south, the town is bordered by a marshy area that can be explored by boat or canoe. This is the Balta Mică Nature Park, a small protected area with some 200 species of birds, a sort of miniature delta. Nearby, 7 km south of the town, Lac Salé (lacul Sărat), surrounded by a park, offers a relaxing stopover. There's a beach, bars, campsites and hotels. Take tramway 24 to reach the site.

The "Red Patrol" proposes you to wander the streets of Bucharest aboard a mythical Dacia from the 1970-1980's, restored, the ideal vehicle for a ride on the traces of Romania's recent past. Among the tours, two are possible in French: the great classic "communist tour", in which you can even drive the Dacia and which will show you the key places of this period, and the tour of the "Bucharest of contrasts", which will take you from the bourgeois district of Cotroceni to the large blocks of Ferentari and Drumul Taberei.

On the outskirts of the city, white mountains surround a 30-metre deep lake. Several tens of meters high, these salt mountains (muntele de sare) have been sculpted by the rain, which has given them pretty shapes, curves and waves. The salt crystals form a multitude of needles. This natural monument, classified as a geological reserve, was created by the collapse of a salt mining gallery, which caused a landslide and ripped open the mountain. Careful, when the sun hits, the salt, shiny, becomes quite blinding.

Here's an edifice that's crystallizing passions and creating controversy. The cathedral, which began construction in 2011, has so far cost over 200 million euros, most of which comes from public funds. In addition to the debate over the aesthetics of this gigantic building, which stands next to the Palace of Parliament, with which it rivals, a large part of the population feels that this money should have been used for more useful purposes (schools, hospitals, etc.).

This park, steeped in history, is a delight to stroll through amidst century-old trees. It was inaugurated in 1906, on the occasion of a jubilee exhibition. Built on Filaret Hill, south of the capital, it offers one of the few panoramic views of the city. In the center, a 48-meter high mausoleum houses the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. You'll also see a scale model of the Poienari citadel (one of Vlad Țepeș's lairs), which serves as a water tower. Further south, the Youth Park(Tineretului), created under Communism, is much larger and boasts a large lake.

Between Piața Victoriei and the Arc de Triomphe, Chaussée Kiseleff(șoseaua Kiseleff), named after a ^19th-century Russian governor, forms a pleasant promenade. The street is first lined on either side by a park, then offers a succession of superb residences, including a few embassies. The Palacio Elisabeta (no. 28), dating from 1937, is one of the most beautiful. Others include Casa Doina (no. 4) and Casa Titulescu (no. 47). All these palaces date back to the heyday of Bucharest, when daring architecture was the rule.

It escaped destruction under Communism, but like the Antim monastery on the other side of Unirii boulevard, it's been squeezed between blocks of flats. Built by Matei Basarab in 1636, it was embellished by Cantacuzino in 1775. The door is protected by a porch, whose six columns are beautifully decorated with plant motifs. Inside, you'll see numerous portraits: Matei Basarab, Ștefan and Constantin Cantacuzino, Princess Păuna..

Considered one of Bucharest's most beautiful buildings, this mansion has been restored to its former glory after years of neglect. Its name, "Mița la cycliste", refers to the woman who occupied the premises, Maria Mihăescu, the first woman to ride a bicycle in Bucharest and a key figure in the Bucharest social scene in the first half of the 20th century. She was known for her "extravagances", but above all she was a free woman ahead of her time. This magnificent example of Art Nouveau now houses a cultural center, a bookshop and a cocktail bar.

This vast cemetery is the equivalent of Père Lachaise in Paris. It was created in 1858, on land made available by Baron Barbu Bellu. It's a quiet place, immersed in greenery, really pleasant. You feel as if you're wandering through a wood where a few graves have been laid out. Here you'll find the graves of personalities such as Mihai Eminescu, the national poet, and playwright Ion Luca Caragiale. They lie alongside members of wealthy local families, who competed to build the most beautiful tombs, such as the imposing Cantacuzènes mausoleum.

The church is named after and houses the tomb of Constantin Brâncoveanu's daughter, who died in 1751. Built in 1885, it is the fourth version, the previous three having suffered fire, flood and earthquake. Its brick and orange colors stand out beautifully against the gray buildings that surround it. The stained-glass windows from Vienna and the chandelier made in Munich are remarkable. In the courtyard is a statue dedicated to the princess, made in 1881.

Hard to miss. Still topped with dozens of satellite dishes, the Palace of Telephones(Palatul Telefoanelor) would not be out of place in Gotham City. Inaugurated in 1934, this building, reminiscent of the old New York skyscrapers, bears witness to the architectural follies of the time. For many years, it was the tallest building in the city, standing at 52.50 m. It is emblematic of the Art Deco style, well represented in Bucharest with the Ambasador and Lido hotels on Magheru boulevard, and the Union International Center on strada Câmpineanu.

A neo-Brâncovenesc monument, the Palace of the Institute of Architecture(Palatul institutului de arhitectură), built between 1921 and 1927 by Grigore Cerchez, houses the Ion Mincu University of Architecture and Urban Planning, named after this great architect and promoter of the neo-Romanian style. Its facade, recently cleaned, shows just how beautiful the city could be if the same treatment were given to the many buildings blackened by car fumes.