Why go dans la Région des Lacs?

Between the major urban centers and the vast expanses of desert, you can imagine that life doesn't move at the same pace for everyone. In the cities of both Chile and Argentina, shops generally open from 10am to 8pm on weekdays (later in shopping malls) and remain open until 2pm on Saturdays. On Sundays, however, everything is closed. Lunch is often taken between 1 and 3 p.m., depending on the situation. In Patagonia, shops and museums in small towns and villages also close on Mondays. A lunch break or siesta is de rigueur: in this case, it's very difficult to find a shop that's open.

At first glance, reservations aren't necessary: even in high season, you can always find a hotel or organize a guided tour overnight. However, in Chilean Patagonia, you should be aware that your trip may have to meet certain logistical requirements: in summer, ferry and bus traffic increases, but this doesn't mean that more departures are scheduled. For example, for the ferry from Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo and the ferry from Puerto Montt to Hornopiren, make sure you buy your tickets 15 days in advance between November and February. What's more, since 2016, advance reservations have been compulsory for accommodation along the W and O circuits in Torres del Paine National Park, so make sure you book well in advance to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Use an agency to organize your stay, or make your own reservations. Also on the Chilean side, visit www.pasesparques.cl for access to the country's national parks. On the Argentinian side, we advise you to book whale-watching excursions on the Valdés Peninsula: the best agencies sell out very quickly in high season. In general, the destination is becoming increasingly popular, and tourist numbers tend to concentrate in a single period: ideally, we advise you to book in advance to guarantee a smooth experience during your visits.

Patagonia is far from cheap. Generally speaking, prices are higher on the Route Austral (Chile), the Los Glaciares park region and Ushuaia (Argentina). The vast majority of national parks charge a fee for both domestic and foreign visitors. Discounts are sometimes available for students and children: remember to bring your receipts with you. In Chile, the national parks are administered by CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal), which reports to the Ministry of Agriculture. In Argentina, the APN (Administración de Parques Nacionales) is in charge of parks and reserves. For an adult, you'll generally need to pay between 4,000 and 25,000 Argentine pesos. Guides are not obligatory, and you can hike the trails at your leisure. The Parque Nacional Los Glaciares charges a fee in the southern sector (Perito Moreno glacier), but it's free in the northern sector: those on a budget will be able to hike for several days without spending a penny.

As far as museums are concerned, prices are rarely exorbitant, and some are even free, with only a small contribution required on your part. Many points of interest are also free of charge, so all you need to do is be a little curious and take your time: a path can lead to a beautiful waterfall, a conversation with a fisherman can lead to a good fishing trip on his boat, a viewpoint can be an excellent excuse for a lunch break, a stroll along the shores of a lake can lead you to discover a secret beach... Patagonia is a great playground where nature promises many discoveries!

Celebrating its customs, its biodiversity, its fish-filled waters and its Mapuche heritage, Patagonia is far from being a void that refrains from the slightest festive opportunity: throughout the year, hundreds of celebrations take place from one side of the Andes to the other. The most charming and picturesque are certainly the folkloric festivities, which celebrate a condensed version of the region's culture and history: for example, the Patagonian Folk Festival, the Punta Arenas Winter Carnival or "El asado más grande de Tierra del Fuego", where the best asado is prepared: and be careful, it's all done with the utmost seriousness, as it's a team competition with deliberation by a jury! The know-how of gaucho culture is also the subject of a number of events, including the Fiesta nacional de la esquila (National Shearing Festival) in Río Mayo, where gauchos put their skills to the test, and the Puerto Madryn festival, where in addition to shearing demonstrations, you can watch rodeo shows.

A feeling of freedom often accompanies hikers eager to discover the trails of Patagonia: in total autonomy, you can assault the roads, national parks and other hidden treasures of this region where everything still remains to be explored. However, some activities require assistance or accompaniment, whether for practical or safety reasons. If you want to get close to the marine wildlife, you'll need to book a tour with an agency. To walk among penguins or get close to whales, these agencies have special authorizations. If you want to get close to the highest peaks or explore glaciers, volcano ascents must be carried out with specialized agencies or guides. Glacier trekking also requires special equipment (crampons, helmets, etc.). Most sporting activities, such as canyoning, rafting, climbing or diving, require supervision: trust the guides!

The good thing about Patagonia is that it's a great place for sports and fresh air: a great opportunity to breathe, at last! Smoking is forbidden in national parks, museums and most open-air points of interest: in fact, it's frowned upon. Argentina and Chile have passed strict anti-smoking laws which prohibit smoking in public places. There are, however, some designated smoking areas.

In Chile in particular, you don't need any special certification to offer guiding services: in fact, many agencies offer poor-quality excursions with inexperienced, unprofessional guides. So make sure that your guide has the necessary accreditations and is registered with SERNATUR (www.sernatur.cl).