The largest island in the Antilles has a rich culinary history of varied influences. Its first inhabitants, the Tainos, already cultivated many local plants - cassava, sweet potato, beans, squash - before the Spanish took control of Cuba for more than 500 years. They introduced new products and recipes, which were enriched with the arrival of slaves from Africa. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Haitian revolution attracted French settlers to Cuba, who left their mark on the local cuisine, while later on many Chinese arrived to work in the sugarcane plantations, bringing with them various recipes and especially an important taste for rice. The trio of rice, black beans and plantain is served almost automatically with all meat, poultry, fish and seafood dishes. Finally, it is impossible not to mention rum, a true religion in Cuba.
Characteristic products and habits
Cuban cuisine makes use of a large number of vegetables and starches. The term viandas has nothing to do with meat (carne) but refers to tubers and bananas: yuca (manioc), papa (potato), malanga (taro), boniato (sweet potato), plátano (banana, fruit or plantain). The plátano can be fried in pieces (tostones) or in thin strips (mariquitas), or boiled and mashed with chicharrones - crispy fried bacon - under the name of fufú
. The latter is a dish brought by slaves and is extremely common in Africa. Unlike many of its Caribbean neighbors, Cuban cuisine, although spicy, is not very spicy.
On the meat side, pork (cerdo) is the favorite meat of Cubans. It is often marinated in a mixture of bitter orange, oregano, garlic and cumin before being roasted or grilled. Pork is also made into sausages and cold cuts, such as chorizo, which is very popular here. Carne de res (beef) is eaten in Cuba as picadillo
(ground meat) or steak. Chicken is also very popular. Despite Cuba's insular location, fish and seafood are more rarely eaten. However, in the seaside resorts, there are many restaurants offering fish and shellfish to tourists. Lobsters are particularly famous. There are two main types of restaurants: the
paladares, which are privately owned and can be located in beautiful houses, and the state restaurants, which are more traditional. You will find all prices for both categories, ranging from fast food to gourmet restaurants. However, it is usually in the privately owned establishments that you eat best, as the cooks are often more attentive. For those on a budget, snack bars and small stalls are common along the markets.
The classics of Cuban cuisine
The Cuban national dish is ropa vieja, literally "old clothes". This dish consists of beef simmered for a long time in a richly seasoned tomato-based sauce before being shredded. Bistec de palomilla - "butterfly steak" - is a beef steak marinated with garlic, lime juice and pepper, then pan-fried with a generous amount of onion. Closely related, vaca frita is a fried and pulled steak with caramelized onions. The boliche is a roast beef stuffed with a ham or chorizo preparation. It is then simmered with onions and various spices. Picadillo a la habanera is a recipe of minced meat with tomatoes, olives, onions, white wine and raisins. Tasajo
is dried or smoked horse meat. It is cut into small cubes and is usually served with a sauce.
Lechón or roast suckling pig is usually prepared for special occasions. The simpler bistec de cerdo encebollado is a pork steak with caramelized onions, while the masas de cerdo fritas is fried pork cubes marinated in bitter orange juice. Caldosa
is a rich peasant soup - native to the Cuban Oriente - with pork, beef, chicken, sweet potato, corn, potato, squash and a host of spices.
Chicken is commonly served in Cuba and is found inajiaco, for example. A dish of African origin, it is a kind of stew made of chicken, vegetables and tubers. It is garnished with plantains, potatoes, manioc, sweet potatoes, corn, pumpkin, yams, etc. Chicken is also served with saffron rice in the classic arroz con pollo. Rice is indeed essential in Cuba. For example, there is the unavoidable Moros y cristianos - literally "Moors and Christians" - made of white rice and black beans, but also thearroz cubano, a tomato rice with plantain and fried egg. Theimperial arroz is a tomato and saffron rice, topped with ham, shrimp and chicken, all baked with cheese. The rice is a classic accompaniment forenchilado de camarones cubano
, shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce.
Tamales - found throughout much of Latin America - are prepared by wrapping corn dough in corn husks before cooking in boiling water. They are most often filled with pork. Since their preparation is long and tedious, they are often made in family. Another local classic, yuca con mojo, is a recipe of boiled cassava with a garlic, onion and coriander dressing. A staple food of the Tainos, casabe
- called "bread of the earth" by the Spanish colonists - is made from flour extracted from cassava. It looks like a Mexican tortilla and is still eaten today, especially in the east of the island, with pork.
For those who want to eat on the go, it is impossible not to mention the traditional Cuban sandwich or medianoche. Prepared with pan cubano - a kind of baguette slightly brioche -, it is filled with cold roast pork, ham, mustard, emmental cheese and sweet pickles. But there is a surprising variant filled with turkey with fresh cheese and strawberry jam, created by a local socialite, Elena Ruz, in the 1930s. The term " bocadillo " usually refers to the simpler sandwiches sold on the street and in cafeterias, con jamón (ham), con queso (cheese) or con lechón
(roasted pork). Cubans love pizza. Quite different from what is found in Italy, they are usually very thick, brioche-like, with a slightly sweet tomato sauce and lots of cheese. They are perfect for a quick and hearty meal. There are many different types of fried foods or
frituras, often made with starchy foods: corn,
malanga,
tostones (plantain), etc. The
croquetas cubanas are croquettes made with béchamel sauce, ham and cheese, breaded and fried, as in Spain. The
papa rellena is also a type of mashed potato croquette filled with ground meat, chorizo and cheese. Cuban
empanadas are, as in the rest of Latin America, half-moon turnovers filled with ground meat and vegetables.
Cajitas are small take-out boxes, ideal for small budgets, with a cooked dish, usually pork or chicken, with rice, black beans, cassava and/or fried banana.
Desserts and drinks
Among the delicious little desserts that Cuba has the secret of, we must mention the boniatillo (a kind of sweet potato cream very flavored with cinnamon), thearroz con leche (rice pudding), the cusubé (manioc jam), the malarrabia (banana jam), the mermelada de fruta (jam) and finally the majarete, an excellent dessert made with grated corn juice, milk and cinnamon. The locals are also very fond of ice cream. The queso con guayaba is a mixture of guava paste and fresh cheese: surprising but delicious. Cascos
are candied fruit peels, usually citrus or guava.
A tropical island par excellence, Cuba produces a wide variety of succulent exotic fruits: pineapple, mango, watermelon, guava, coconut, papaya, and of course bananas. The banana as it is known in Europe is called plátano fruta. There is also a very small variety called plátano-manzano (banana-apple) which has an apple aftertaste. Other rarer fruits are worth a visit, such as theanón (attier), the chirimoya (cherimoya) and the guanábana (corrosol) with a very sweet white pulp. The mamey
is a large brown Caribbean fruit with a tasty orange flesh and a huge lacquered stone.
These fruits are abundantly transformed into juice but also into milkshake, or batido. Guarapo is the traditional freshly squeezed cane juice. The granizade is a drink made of crushed ice with a liqueur (non-alcoholic) served in the street. Beware of anything with ice cubes and crushed ice, often made with tap water, which is not drinkable on the island. Malta
is a carbonated malt drink with an aftertaste of beer and cola, often with a dash of sweetened condensed milk. One cannot leave the Cuban table without mentioning the deliciously full-bodied and very sweet
Cubano coffee, which is at the heart of local social life. The
cortadito is a long coffee with a good amount of milk. The
casas de infusiones, a kind of tea house, are also popular, but they serve herbal teas and other infusions.
Cuba, land of rum
The history of Cuba is inseparable from that of sugar cane and therefore of rum. The island is marked by two emblematic houses that symbolize the " ron " in their own right. Bacardí and Havana Club, founded respectively in 1862 and 1878, had different destinies. After the Cuban revolution of 1959, the Bacardí family fled the island to Bermuda, while production was relocated to Puerto Rico, to the production site of the " Cathedral of Rum
", today the largest rum distillery in the world. On the other hand, Havana-Club was nationalized and remained in Cuba.
There are different productions: the Silver Dry, white, sweet, suitable for cocktails, the Añejo 3 Años, slightly amber, pure or in cocktails, the Añejo Reserva and the Añejo 7 Años, darker in color and with a woody taste, to be consumed pure or on the rocks. But Havana Club is not the only Cuban rum brand. There are also other Cuban rum brands such as Arecha, Santiago de Cuba, Edmundo Dantes, Varadero or Santero y Caney.
Havana was, on the eve of the Revolution, a deeply cosmopolitan city, attracting artists, socialites and businessmen from all over the world, especially from the United States. Many rum-based cocktails were created there, such as the Daiquiri (lime, crushed ice), the Cuba Libre (cola, lime), the Mojito (mint, lime, crushed ice, brown sugar), the El Presidente (dry vermouth, curaçao, grenadine, orange peel), the Ron Collins (yellow lemon, sugar, soda water), the Hemingway Special (grapefruit juice, maraschino, lime) or the Greta Garbo (maraschino, lime, crushed ice, anisette).
There are other alcohols on the island, such as the
aguardiente - understand "brandy" - which is an unrefined rum, often served in the form of
saoco, with coconut water and a dash of honey.
Guayabita del Pinar is a kind of arranged rum in which small wild guavas are left to macerate. Cubans - but also tourists - are also big consumers of beers, mainly lagers, such as Hatuey (named after an Indian cacique) which is the most famous brand. Cristal, Bucanero and Mayabe are produced by the Cervecería Bucanero S.A. brewery, located in Holguín, founded in 1997. La Tropical is the oldest beer in Cuba, produced since 1883, without forgetting the Tinima, one of the few strong beers found on the island, with a strength of 8°.
Enjoying yourself Cuba
Timetable Cuba
Cuban restaurants are generally open non-stop, with the exception of a few fancier eateries in the capital. Some are cafés serving food from dawn onwards, while others are more conventional restaurants, usually open from noon to 10pm, 11pm, midnight, or even later on weekends in major cities and seaside resorts.
Budget & Tips Cuba
Like its people, Cuban cuisine is mixed and spicy, without being overly spicy. However, the embargo continues to weigh heavily on the country, and the scarcity of imported products combined with underdeveloped local agriculture is not really conducive to the blossoming of contemporary Cuban gastronomy. To save money, we strongly recommend eating in the casas where you are staying (portions are usually generous) and, when you go out, eating typical dishes, with chicken-rice-beans and ropa vieja at the top of the list. By the sea, combined fish (or lobster) dishes are also good options.
Another factor to consider when dining out is the currency accepted. Since the recent disappearance of the CUC (convertible peso, indexed to the US dollar), most restaurants accept the CUP (Cuban peso), but some will ask you for euros only (or dollars, or pounds... in short, what we in Cuba call MLC for Monnaie Librement Convertible)! If the rate in euros offered by the latter seems right to you, then no problem. However, if you pay by credit card in euros, be sure to check that the rate displayed on the payment terminal is in euros and not CUP, because if you pay by credit card a certain amount in CUP, be aware that the rate applied will be the official rate, i.e. 1/25 (as opposed to 1/100 on the street). In the restaurants of major hotels (particularly in the capital), the price can be multiplied by 3 or even 4! In fact, some hotels only accept credit cards and use the official exchange rate. As a result, a pizza advertised at 500 CUP, paid for with a credit card, costs 20 € (compared with 5 € if paid for in the national currency)!
Restaurants specifically dedicated to tourists tend to accept only MLC (euros, dollars, pounds) and display prices directly in these currencies. You can pay either by card or in cash, but in the latter case, if the restaurant owner has to give you change in CUP (Cuban pesos), ask for the exchange rate on the street that day. Otherwise, if the restaurant owner gives you change in CUP at the official rate, you'll lose out. If you go to a restaurant and the prices are displayed in CUP, always pay in cash! Otherwise, your meal will cost you 4 to 5 times more than its real value.
What costs extra Cuba
If you're not the tipping type, you're in for a treat in Cuba. Parking attendants, ladies (or gentlemen) at toilet entrances, waiters, cabs and tour guides all expect a little something, especially from tourists. The same goes for the musicians who liven up the restaurant terraces! Generally speaking, if you're happy with the service, a little extra 10% of the bill is in order. As for street musicians and parking attendants, €1 or €2 will be welcome. Cubans pay a 2 CUP commission for ladies/messieurs-pipi (carry some change with you!). Finally, in a state-run restaurant, there are two possible options: either you tip the waiter or waitress directly, or you leave it on the table, in which case the employee will be obliged to return it to the employer (the state), who will divide it between everyone at the end of the day. The choice is yours.
The local way Cuba
In addition to the typical ropa vieja (shredded beef cooked over a low heat with vegetables) and platos combinados (combined dishes such as "chicken-rice-bean" or "fish-rice-vegetable") already mentioned, Cubans are also fond of bocadillos (sandwiches), pizzas and pasta dishes. But don't get your hopes up: Cuban-style pasta and pizza are a long way from their Italian counterparts (although some restaurants are doing quite well).
And while Cuba still lacks quality products (mainly due to the impossibility of importing), the 2011 reforms encouraging self-employment have had a positive impact on the general level of gastronomy. Indeed, the number of paladares (private, non-state-run restaurants) has quite simply exploded, particularly in the capital, which is not to the displeasure of gourmets. However, we can't speak of Havana as a gastronomic destination, although some initiatives bode well for the future of our palates!
To be avoided Cuba
Never eat fruit or vegetables that have not been washed beforehand, to avoid gastro-enteritis or turista. You should also be aware that tap water is not fit to drink. Also, beware when buying bottled water, as it may not be spring water but simply filtered water. Normally, this poses no problem, but beware of sensitive stomachs and its unpleasant earthy taste... To make sure your water bottle contains mineral water, check that it's properly sealed. And be careful not to drink just any refresco. Parasites can get into your stomach and bother you during your trip or when you get home.
Kids Cuba
Children are welcome in most restaurants in Cuba. However, if the establishment you have chosen is more of a drinking establishment than a restaurant, you may not be accepted if you are accompanied by minors.
Smokers Cuba
Smoking is generally prohibited in enclosed, air-conditioned restaurants. However, the vast majority of Cuban tables are outdoors or on terraces open to the four winds. If no one around you is smoking, the best thing to do is ask the wait staff.
Tourist traps Cuba
As in any tourist area of the world, in La Habana Vieja you'll find touts who will try to get you to sit down in the restaurant they work for, thus ensuring themselves a commission. This doesn't mean that the restaurant is bad. The better question would be: does a good restaurant need a tout?
Also, remember to ask for the menu when you arrive at a restaurant. If there's no menu, or no prices on the menu, ask how much the dish you want costs. This will avoid any inconvenience when it's time to pay, as some restaurants tend to adapt the price to the customer's head.
Take a break Cuba
Timetable Cuba
Bakeries, cafeterias and ice-cream parlors are generally open all day, until 7, 8, 9 or even later. However, there are no hard and fast rules here, and to avoid wasting time, it's best to make a quick phone call. Bars generally open during the day, but tend to fill up when the sun goes down, i.e. around 6-7pm, and close around 1 or 2am, sometimes even later.
Budget & Tips Cuba
In the capital's cafeterias, the price of a coffee ranges from €1 to €2, while a cocktail generally costs €1.50 to €3, provided you go to bars where you pay in CUP (Cuban peso)! On the other hand, if you go to the rooftop bars of the capital's major hotels in particular, the price can be multiplied by 3 or even 4! In fact, some hotels only accept credit cards and use the official exchange rate, i.e. around 1/25, so that a cocktail priced at 200 CUP and paid for by credit card costs €8!
Age restrictions Cuba
Minors, i.e. people under the age of 18, are officially prohibited from consuming alcohol in Cuba.
What's very local Cuba
Coffee por favor! Cuban coffee, little known worldwide because it is produced in quantities too small to be exported, is particularly good! Mainly Arabica, it is grown in the semi-mountainous areas of the country and is renowned for its low acidity, full body, medium intensity and citrus flavours. Espresso (strong) or americano (long), café con leche (café lait) or cortado (short coffee with a dash of milk), the choice is yours. Note that café con miel (honey coffee) is a speciality of southern Cuba. Locally-produced chocolate is also consumed in Cuba, and more specifically in the extreme Oriente region of Barracoa.
A little elegance. When you go out in Cuba, whether to a restaurant, for a drink or, even more so, to dance, it's customary to dress appropriately, not to say elegantly! So if you're invited by Cubans to go out, put your casual attire to one side and dress to the nines!
Rum. Ron Superior, a twice-distilled rum, conveys the warm image of Cuban culture through its light, shimmering cocktails. Havana-Club owes its ron superior appellation to the quality of the sugar cane grown on Cuba's best land, in the province of Oriente, and to the expertise of its master distillers. But Havana Club is not the only brand of Cuban rum! In Cuba, you can also taste other excellent rum brands such as Arecha, Santiago de Cuba, Edmundo Dantes, Varadero and Santero y Caney. Mulata rum, on the other hand, is of inferior quality and is often served in the bars of all-inclusive hotels.
Here are some of Cuba's most popularrum-based cocktails:
Cuba libre. In a tall glass, pour 1 measure of rum, 5 measures of coca, the juice of half a lime and 2 ice cubes.
Daïquiri. Juice of half a lime, half a spoonful of sugar, 1 measure of rum, a few ice cubes, shaken in a shaker. Serve over ice in a cocktail glass. Some even make it with strawberry juice!
Greta-Garbo. In a shaker, pour half a spoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of maraschino, the juice of a lime, one and a half measures of rum, 5 drops of Pernod and ice. Whisk and serve immediately.
Havana-especial. In a shaker with a few ice cubes, 1 part rum, 1 part pineapple juice. Shake and serve strained.
Hemingway-especial. In a blender with crushed ice, 1 measure rum, 1 measure grapefruit juice and 1 half-squeezed lime. Beat well and serve well chilled.
Mojito. Cuba's national drink, a legacy of buccaneering king Francis Drake, it's Creole to the core. Pour into a glass: half a spoonful of sugar, the juice of half a lime, 1 measure of rum, 2 or 3 ice cubes, crush a few fresh mint leaves with the sugar and lemon juice, top up with sparkling water and, before serving, dip in a sprig of mint.
Ron Collins. Pour into a tall glass 1 measure of rum, 1 half-spoonful of sugar, 1 half-squeezed lemon, 2 or 3 ice cubes, top up with sparkling water, add a slice of lemon and, if desired, a cherry.
Kids Cuba
Children are generally welcome just about everywhere in Cuba, except perhaps in certain adult-only clubs in seaside areas.
Smokers Cuba
In cafés and bars, as in restaurants, smoking is generally prohibited if the premises are enclosed and air-conditioned. In all other cases, please ask the staff.
Tourist traps Cuba
The most fashionable tourist trick on our visit was what you might call the "salsa festival" trick. In short, a random man accosts you, assuring you that it's your lucky day, that today is the last day of the salsa festival and that he has a ticket for you. The gullible tourist, amazed at his good fortune, will follow the man to a bar or other venue - where salsa is usually played - and pocket his commission for bringing in one more customer. Salsa, yes, but not THE salsa festival!