Travel Guide Muong Khuong

Muong Khuong is not particularly interesting. A visit to Muong Khuong may tempt the curious, attracted by the aura of mystery that attaches itself to border areas (to the north, China is only ten kilometers away) and those, particularly motorcyclists, who have a little time on their hands and like to take the bush paths. The Muong Khuong market, frequented by many ethnic minorities, is held on Sunday mornings. A stopover at Muong Khuong can be considered as part of a journey between Lào Cai and Bac Hà. The classic route, taken by most travellers from Bac Hà to Lào Cai station (or, more rarely, vice versa), takes around 2h30 (and is 75 km long). Those taking the border route therefore opt for a long detour (approx. 160 km), and will need to allow for more than 5 hours' driving. From west to east, it takes around 2 hours to reach Muong Khuong from Lao Cai (55 km) on a road in very good condition, but unfortunately criss-crossed by exceptional convoys of heavy trucks loaded with containers from the Chinese border. Between Muong Khuong and Si Ma Cai (horse market in the Hmông language), the road (62 km) regains its tranquillity and offers superb views over valleys cut by crenellated slopes of terraced rice fields. The journey is punctuated by encounters with the inhabitants of the highlands, mainly Hmông fleur, but also Dao, Tay and Nung, who go about their farming activities and herd buffalo to the grazing grounds. 17 km from Si Ma Cai is Can Câu, which hosts a Saturday morning market (get there before 11am) attended by many minorities. The road continues and it takes another half-hour to reach the large town of Bac Hà (20 km away).There are no major difficulties for the motorcycle; the terrain is steep, the road climbs the mountains and takes a series of bends, but it's in excellent condition. This relatively recent road, which has replaced the bad smugglers' track of yesteryear, facilitates traffic, but it has also caused this once remote region to lose much of its original character. Horse-drawn caravans are becoming increasingly rare, villages are clustered with unattractive buildings and the diversity of costumes is diminishing over the years...