Located three quarters of an hour by 4WD from Taiohae, the deep valley of Taipivai stretches for several kilometers to reach the famous eponymous waterfall, which feeds a river that is up to 20 meters wide in places. Below, the river forms a small lake embracing a green islet, shortly before flowing into the sea through Controller's Bay. A sweet and persistent smell of vanilla floats permanently on the village. Here, the road splits in two. On the right, it follows the bay in cornice to reach Hooumi, lost in the nature. To the left, it climbs the mountain to the Teavaitapuhiva pass, to come down to Hatiheu, located on the edge of a small plain, northeast of Nuku Hiva. Decorated with recent tikis, with a museum, the village is overhung by impressive basalt peaks.But if Taipivai is obviously worth a visit for its waterfall and its village, the locality also conceals a major archaeological site dating from the 16th century: the meae Paeke, the only place on the island where one will find such a concentration of large tikis. The path leading to it is located 2 km north, on the road to Hatiheu (look for the blue house on the right): count on a 20 to 30 minute walk; be careful, it's uphill on the way!The only option in the village for lunch is Chez Annette, but opening hours are a bit unpredictable: call ahead (+689 87 239 338). The village also hosts two general stores: Vainui (after Chez Annette in the direction of Hooumi), and Kaher, which is larger, a little further on.

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